Not sure what is up with Copenhagen, if it’s always been looking so good, or if in the last two years they’ve been doing some extensive cleaning up, but it’s looking spiffy. Buildings are clean and fresh with plaster (the above buildings as an example, the right one is currently being worked on).

To add some contrast…

On our way to dinner!

Our second night in Copenhagen brought us back to Jægersborggade, to Relæ which is kitty corner to last night’s visit to Manfred’s. Both restaurants were opened by Noma alumni.

We got a plum spot at the bar (we’re totally bar folk, we like to sit next to each other). An interesting group of Danes and North Americans (based on their accents, or lack thereof) working the kitchen. Each presented the dish they were working on to us.

They have drawers at each table with the cutlery, napkins and menus tucked inside. The menu has two options: regular and vegetarian, which is a variation of the regular menu.

A starter, in season asparagus.

We loved the olive oil carafe and ceramics, which we found out later were all made by a ceramicist down the street! Local!

Lumpfish roe, hazelnut and cold grapefruit. This dish was really refreshing. I don’t generally “get” roe, but it was a nice opener.

Baked bintje, olives and buttermilk. This dish was simple but delicious.

Duroc pork, swede and smoked cod roe. Pasta-like rutabaga (swede) and pork…this dish was really satisfying. So much so I don’t know why…

…we got the Troldehede cheese.

The two male waiters wore some amazing leather butchers aprons. Wish I got a shot from the front but I’m pretty shy when it comes to involving people in my photo taking endeavors.

Don’t let this photo fool you. It’s between servings…the tables were busy all night. I just don’t like to make other diners uncomfortable with my clicking away so I took this photo during a break, just so you could see that it’s quite a casual and comfortable atmosphere. That said, people dressed up – it’s a date night type of place.

I think this is the kieni, black currant, bread and olive oil. But that said, I have no idea what kieni is. But that’s the next thing on the menu so it must be this. Sadly this was the only disappointing item on the menu. But it could have just been my personal taste. I’m a chocolate dessert kind of person.

We’ve been watching so many cooking and chef shows, it was kind of funny watching them live. But the chefs in this kitchen are nothing but professional and focused.

After dinner we took a walk along Jægersborggade. It seems like the type of area that once had nothing going on, and then the artists came and opened studios, and restaurants and bars followed.

Writers, artists and shoe makers. The street even has its own website!

We stumbled across the ceramicist who made all of Relæ’s stoneware.

We lucked out as Julie Bonde Bülck was still in her studio!

An artist series started to present itself…(har har)

I’m a window peeker. Sorry. I really love the candle in the window thing that Scandinavians do.

Loving the use of peek-through frosting that many of the studios have. It gives them privacy but offers a glimpse.

Corner store with patio!

Wish we had time to come by during the day. Next time!