Essaouira ⵜⴰⵚⵚⵓⵕⵜ Mogador / ⵎⵓⴳⴰⴷⵓⵔ
—  City and Wilaya  —
Coat of arms
Essaouira ⵜⴰⵚⵚⵓⵕⵜ Location in Morocco
Coordinates: 31°30′47″N 9°46′11″W / 31.51306°N 9.76972°W / 31.51306; -9.76972
Country	Morocco
Region	Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz
Province
Government
• Mayor	Asma Chaâbi
Population (2004)
• Total	70,000
Time zone	WET (UTC+0)
• Summer (DST)	WEST (UTC+1)

Mogador redirects here, for the hamlet in Surrey see Mogador, Surrey.

Essaouira (Arabic: الصويرة‎, as-Ṣawīra; Berber Tassort) is a city in the western Moroccan economic region of Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz, on the Atlantic coast. Since the 16th century, the city has also been known by its Portuguese name of Mogador or Mogadore. The Berber name means the wall, a reference to the fortress walls that originally enclosed the city.

History[link]

Archaeological research shows that Essaouira has been occupied since prehistoric times. The bay at Essaouira is partially sheltered by the island of Mogador, making it a peaceful harbor protected against strong marine winds.

Antiquity[link]

Phoenician plate with red slip, 7th century BCE, excavated in Mogador island, Essaouira. Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum.

Essaouira has long been considered as one of the best anchorages of the Moroccan coast. The Carthaginian navigator Hanno visited the place in the 5th century BC and established the trading post of Arambys.

Around the end of the 1st century BCE or early 1st century CE, Juba II established a Tyrian purple factory, processing the murex and purpura shells found in the intertidal rocks at Essaouira and the Iles Purpuraires. This dye colored the purple stripe in Imperial Roman Senatorial togas.

A Roman villa was also excavated on Mogador island.^[1] A Roman vase was found as well as coinage from the 3rd century CE. Most of the artifacts are now visible in the Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum and the Rabat Archaeological Museum.

• 

  Betica amphora found in Essaouira, 1-2nd century CE.

• 

  Aegean amphora found in Essaouira, 3-4th century CE.

• 

  Roman coins excavated in Essaouira, 3rd century.

Early modern period[link]

Resting place of Sidi Mogdoul in Essaouira.

During the Middle Ages, a Muslim saint named Sidi Mogdoul was buried in Essaouira, probably giving its origin to the name "Mogador".

Portuguese establishment (1506-10)[link]

In 1506, the king of Portugal, D. Manuel I ordered a fortress to be built there, named "Castelo Real de Mogador". Altogether, the Portuguese are documented to have seized 6 Moroccan towns, and built 6 stand-alone fortresses on the Moroccan Atlantic coast, between the river Loukos in the north and the river of Sous in the south. Four of them only had a short duration: Graciosa (1489), Sao Joao da Mamora (1515), Castelo Real of Mogador (1506–10) and Aguz (1520–25). Two of them were to become permanent urban settlements: Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gué (modern Agadir, founded in 1505-06), and Mazagan founded in 1514-17. Following the 1541 Fall of Agadir, the Portuguese had to abandon most of their settlements between 1541 and 1550, although they were able to keep Ceuta, Tangier and Mazagan.^[2]

The fortress of Castelo Real of Mogador fell to the local resistance of the Regraga fraternity four years after its establishment, in 1510.

The Portuguese-built Castelo Real of Mogador was defended under Abd el-Malek II by a garrison of 100 Moroccans. It was drawn by Adriaen Matham in 1641.

During the 16th century, various powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the locality. Essaouira remained a haven for the export of sugar, molasses and the anchoring of pirates.

^[3]

De Razilly expedition (1629)[link]

France was involved in an early attempt to colonize Mogador in 1629. As Richelieu and Père Joseph were attempting to establish a colonial policy, Admiral Isaac de Razilly suggested them to occupy Mogador in 1626, which he had already reconnoitered in 1619. The objective was to create a base against the Sultan of Marrakesh, and asphyxiate the harbour of Safi.

He departed for Salé on 20 July 1629 with a fleet composed of the ships Licorne, Saint-Louis, Griffon, Catherine, Hambourg, Sainte-Anne, Saint-Jean. He bombarded the city the Salé and destroyed 3 corsair ships, and then sent the Griffon under Captain Treillebois to Mogador. The men of Razilly saw the fortress of Castelo Real in Mogador, and landed 100 men with wood and supplies on Mogador island, with the agreement of Richelieu. After a few days however, the Griffon reimbarked the colonists, and departed to rejoin the fleet in Salé.^[4]

After these expeditions, France signed a treaty with Abd el-Malek II in 1631, giving France preferential treatment, known as "Capitulations": preferential tariffs, the establishment of a Consulate and freedom of religion for French subjects.^[5]

Foundation of modern Essaouira (1760-70)[link]

Map of Essaouira by Théodore Cornut. When he left in 1767, areas in pink were already built (streets are still recognizable), whether areas in yellow (harbour front, and medina) were only projected.

Dutch cannon made by Adrianus Crans in La Hague in 1744, installed in Essaouira.

The present city of Essaouira was only built during the 18th century. Mohammed III, wishing to reorient his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased exchanges with European powers, chose Mogador as his key location. One of his objectives was to establish a harbour at the closest possible point from Marrakesh.^[6] The other was to cut off trade from Agadir in the south, which had been favouring political rival of Mohammed III, and the inhabitants of Agadir were forced to relocate to Essaouira.^[6]

For 12 years, Mohammed III directed a French engineer, Théodore Cornut, and several other European architects and technicians, to build the fortress and city along modern lines.^[6][7] Originally called "Souira", "The small fortress", the name then became "Es-Saouira", "The beautifully designed".

Harbour fortifications were built by an English renegade named Ahmed El Alj in 1770, as described in the sculptured inscription in Arabic (right).

Essaouira in 1809.

Thédore Cornut designed and built the city itself, particularly the Kasbah area, corresponding to the Royal quarters and the buildings for Christian merchants and diplomats. Other parts were built by other foreigners however. The harbour entrance, with the "Porte de la Marine", was built by an English renegade by the name of Ahmed el Inglizi ("Ahmed the English"), or Ahmed El Alj ("Ahmed the Renegade").^[7] The two "scalas" with their fortifications (the Harbour scala and the Northern scala) were built by Genoese engineers.

Mohammed III took numerous steps to encourage the development of Essaouira: the harbour of Agadir to the south was closed off in 1767, so that southern trade should be redirected through Essaouira. European communities in the northern harbour of Rabat-Salé were also ordered to move to Essaouira through an ordonance of January 21, 1765.

From the time of its rebuilding by Muhammad III until the end of the nineteenth century, Essaouira served as Morocco's principal port, offering the goods of the caravan trade to the world. The route brought goods from sub-Saharan Africa to Timbuktu, then through the desert and over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech. The road from Marrakech to Essaouira is a straight line, explaining the King's choice of this port among the many that the Moroccan coast offers.

• 

  City walls.

• 

  The ramparts from the Medina.

• 

  The Genoese-built citadel by the harbour.

• 

  Harbour skala.

Jewish presence[link]

A Jewish house in Mogador, by Darondeau (1807-1841).

Mohammed ben Abdallah encouraged Moroccan Jews to settle in the town and handle the trade with Europe. Jews once comprised 40% of the population, and the Jewish quarter, or mellah contain many old synagogues. The town also has a large Jewish cemetery. The city flourished until the caravan trade died, outmoded by direct European trade with sub-Saharan Africa.^[8]

• 

  Old Jewish quarters in Essaouira.

• 

  Jewish cemetery in Essaouira.

European trade and diplomacy[link]

In the 19th century, Essaouira became the first seaport of Morocco, with trade volumes about double those of Rabat.^[9] The city functioned as the harbour for Marrakesh,as it was only a few days from the inland city.^[10] Numerous diplomatic and trade representations were established by European powers in Essouira.^[11] In the 1820, European diplomats were concentrated in either Tangiers or Essaouira.^[12]

• 

  Remains of the 19th century Dutch Consulate in Essaouira.

• 

  Remains of the 19th century Portuguese Consulate in Essaouira.

• 

  Former Essaouira English Consulate.

• 

  Former French Consulate in Essaouira.

French interventions and Protectorate[link]

The attack of Mogador by the French fleet in August 1844, Serkis Diranian.

Former Franco-Moroccan school in Derb Dharb street, Essaouira.

Following Morocco's alliance with Algeria's Abd-El-Kader against France, Essaouira was bombarded and briefly occupied by the French Navy under the Prince de Joinville on August 16, 1844, in the Bombardment of Mogador, an important battle of the First Franco-Moroccan War.

From 1912 to 1956, Essaouira was part of the French protectorate of Morocco. Mogador was used as a base for a military expedition against Dar Anflous, when 8,000 French troops were located outside of the city under the orders of Generals Franchet d'Esperey and Brulard. The Kasbah of Dar Anflous was taken on 25 January 1913. In 1930, brothers, Michel Vieuchange and Jean Vieuchange used Essaouira as a base before Michel set off into the Western Sahara to try to find Smara.

France had an important administrative, military and economic presence. Essaouira had a Franco-Moroccan school, still visible in Derb Dharb street. Linguistically, many Moroccans of Essaouira still speak French fluently today.

Geography[link]

Iles Purpuraires, with Mogador island in the background seen from the ramparts of Essaouira.

Essaouira beach.

Essaouira is protected by a natural bay partially shielded by wave action by the Iles Purpuraires. A broad sandy beach extends from the harbour south of Essaourira, at which point the Oued Ksob discharges to the ocean; south of the discharge lies the archaeological ruin, the Bordj El Berod.^[13] The Canary Current is responsible for the generally southward movement of ocean circulation and has led to enhancement of the local fishery.^[14] The village of Diabat lies about five kilometres south of Essaouira, immediately south of the Oued Ksob.

Essaouira connects to Safi to the north and to Agadir to the south via the N1 road and to Marrakech to the east via the R 207 road. There is a small airport some 7–8 km away from the town, which schedules several flights a week to Paris-Orly and daily to Casablanca.

• 

  Essaouira viewed from space.

• 

  The desert road between Marrakesh and Essaouira.

• 

  Argan tree near Essaouira.

Climate[link]

Essaouira's climate is very mild compared to its location with an average temperature change of only 5C between summer and winter.

Essaouira today[link]

The Medina of Essaouira (formerly "Mogador") is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed city, as an example of a late 18th century fortified town, as transferred to North Africa. Major problems currently are deterioration of the extensive ramparts around the Medina; and widespread violation of laws against motorized vehicles (primarily mopeds) within the Medina.

• 

  Essaouira harbour docks.

• 

  Xiphias gladius, Essaouira.

• 

  Fishmarket in Essaouira.

Where to Stay[link]

There are only a handful of modern purpose-built hotels within the walls of the old city. Newer international hotels have been built along the sea front - the local planning regulations restrict buildings to 4 storeys high to help preserve the stunning views. There are also many privately owned Riads and Dars that may be rented on a daily or weekly basis.

Activities[link]

The medina is home to many small arts and crafts businesses, notably cabinet making and 'thuya' wood-carving (using roots of the Tetraclinis tree), both of which have been practised in Essaouira for centuries.

The fishing harbour, suffering from the competition of Agadir and Safi remains rather small, although the catches (sardines, conger eels^{[disambiguation needed ]}) are surprisingly abundant due to the coastal upwelling generated by the powerful trade winds and the Canaries Current. Essaouira remains one of the major fishing harbours of Morocco.

Essaouira is also renowned for its kitesurfing and windsurfing, with the powerful trade wind blowing almost constantly onto the protected, almost waveless, bay. Several world-class clubs rent top-notch material on a weekly basis. Parasols tend to be used on the beach as a protection against the wind and the blowing sand. Camel excursions are available on the beach and into the desert band in the interior.

Additionally, there are quad biking excursions, cookery courses, photographic excursions and Berber massages available for the active visitor.

• 

  Medina

• 

  Cart porter at the harbour

• 

  Street scene

• 

  Essaouira industrial area.

Culture[link]

Essaouira presents itself as a city full of culture: several small art galleries are found all over the town. Since 1998, the Gnaoua Festival of World Music is held in Essaouira, normally in the last week of June. It brings together artists from all over the world. Although focussed on gnaoua music, it includes rock, jazz and reggae. Dubbed as the "Moroccan Woodstock" it lasts four days and attracts annually around 450,000 spectators.^[16]

In the early 1950s film director and actor Orson Welles stayed at the Hotel des Iles just south of the town walls during the filming of his 1952 classic version of "Othello" which contains several memorable scenes shot in the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of the medina. Legend has it that during Welles's sojourn in the town he met Winston Churchill, another guest at the Hotel des Iles. Orson Welles's bust is located in a small square just outside the medina walls close to the sea. It is in a neglected state being covered in bird poop, graffiti and with a broken nose. In addition, the dedication plaque below it has been stolen (as of Dec 2008). Several other film directors have utilised Essaouira's photogenic and atmospheric qualities.

Despite common misconception,^[17] Jimi Hendrix's song "Castles Made of Sand" was written two years before he visited the castles of Essaouira.^[18]

• 

  Faience in Essaouira.

• 

  Gnaoua festival in Essaouira.

• 
• 

  Saidi-Souiri type Essaouira carpet.

Bibliography[link]

• David Bensoussan & Asher Knafo, "Mariage juif à Mogador" Éditions Du Lys, www.editionsdulys.com,Montréal,2004 (ISBN 292250514)
• David Bensoussan, Le fils de Mogador, www.editionsdulys.com,Éditions Du Lys, Montréal, 2002 (ISBN 9782922505214)
• David Bensoussan, Il était une fois le Maroc : témoignages du passé judéo-marocain, éd. du Lys, www.editionsdulys.com, Montréal, 2010 (ISBN 2-922505-14-6); Deuxième édition : www.iuniverse.com, Bloomington, IN, ISBN 978-1-4759-2608-8,ISBN: 978-1-4759-2609-5 (électronique);
• David Bensoussan, La rosace du roi Salomon, Les Éditions Du Lys,www.editionsdulys.com, 2011, ISBN 978-2-922505-23-8
• Hamza Ben Driss Ottmani, Une cité sous les alizés, MOGADOR, Des origines à 1939, Éditions La Porte, Rabat, 1997 {ISBN|9981889180}
• Jean-Marie Thiébaud, Consuls et vice-consuls de France à Mogador (Maroc), L'Harmattan, 2010 Harmattan.fr
• Jean-Marie Thiébaud, Les Inscriptions du cimetière [chrétien] de Mogador (Essaouira, Maroc) - étude épigraphique et généalogique, L'Harmattan, 2010 Harmattan.fr

International relations[link]

Twin towns — sister cities[link]

Essaouira is twinned with:

• La Rochelle, France (since 1999)^[19]

See also[link]

• Haha
• Regraga
• Tensift River
• Souira Guedima
• André Jodin
• William Willshire
• Mogador class destroyer

Notes[link]

External links[link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Essaouira

Essaouira travel guide from Wikitravel

• UNESCO World Heritage site: Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador)

Coordinates: 31°30′47″N 9°46′11″W / 31.51306°N 9.76972°W / 31.51306; -9.76972

v t e Marrakesh-Tensift-El Haouz region Capital: Marrakesh Provinces Al Haouz Province · Chichaoua Province · Essaouira Province · Kelaat Sraghna province · Marrakesh Province Cities Aït Dawd · Ait Ourir · Amizmiz · Assahrij · Ben Guerir · Chichaoua · El Hanchane · Essaouira · Imin tanout · Kelaat Sraghna · Kettara · Laataouia · Lalla Takarkoust · Loudaya · Marrakech · Moulay Brahim · Ounagha · Sid Zouine · Sidi Abdallah Ghiat · Sidi Bou Othmane · Sidi EL Mokhtar · Sidi Rahal · Skhour Rhamna · Smimou · Tafetacht · Tahannaout · Talmest · Tamallalt · Tamanar · Tameslohte

v t e World Heritage Sites in Morocco Northern Medina of Fes el Bali  · Medina of Tétouan (formerly known as Titawin) Archaeological Site of Volubilis · Historic City of Meknes · Central Medina of Essaouira (formerly Mogador) · Medina of Marrakech · Portuguese City of Mazagan (El Jadida) Southern Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou

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Sergio Cammariere
Background information
Birth name	Sergio Cammariere
Born	(1960-11-15) November 15, 1960 (age 51)
Origin	Crotone, Calabria, Italy
Genres	jazz
Instruments	piano
Website	www.sergiocammariere.com

Sergio Cammariere (born November 15, 1960 in Crotone, Italy) is an Italian jazz singer/songwriter. He has released seven albums.

Career[link]

After a long career as a niche musician distinguished by his collaboration with the poet and singer/songwriter Roberto Kunstler,^[1] in 2003 he appeared at the Sanremo Festival performing the song Tutto quello che un uomo. He came in third place in this contest and won the critics' choice award.

His music can be classified as jazz and Cammariere performs on the piano and sings.

Cammariere is a distant cousin of Italian singer/songwriter Rino Gaetano.

Discography[link]

Singles[link]

• 1998 - Tempo perduto
• 2003 - Tutto quello che un uomo

Albums[link]

• 2002 - Dalla pace del mare lontano
• 2003 - Dalla pace del mare lontano (Second version, including the track Tutto quello che un uomo - Sanremo 2003)
• 2004 - Sul sentiero
• 2006 - Il pane, il vino e la visione
• 2009 - Carovane
• 2012 - Sergio Cammariere

Jazz[link]

• 1993 - Kunstler-Cammariere & Stress Band
• 1993 - I ricordi e le persone

Soundtracks[link]

• 1992 Quando eravamo repressi
• 1994 Teste Rasate
• 1996 USD - Uomini senza donne
• 2007 L'Abbuffata
• 2011 Tiberio Mitri - il campione e la miss

Compilations[link]

• 2008 - Cantautore piccolino

References[link]

External links[link]

• Official website
• Fansite
• Sergio Cammariere @ MySpace