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Baramulla
—  city  —
Baramulla Location of Baramulla in Jammu and Kashmir and India
Coordinates	34°11′53″N 74°21′49″E / 34.1980°N 74.3636°E / 34.1980; 74.3636Coordinates: 34°11′53″N 74°21′49″E / 34.1980°N 74.3636°E / 34.1980; 74.3636
Country	India
State	Jammu and Kashmir
District(s)	Baramulla
Population • Density	1,015,503 (2011[update]) • 303 /km2 (785 /sq mi)
Sex ratio	873 ♂/♀
Literacy • Male • Female	66.93%  • 77.35% • 55.01%
Time zone	IST (UTC+05:30)
Area	3353 km2 (1295 sq mi)sq. km for District Baramulla
Codes • Pincode • 193101 (New City), 193102 (Old City), 193103 (Khawajabagh area) • Telephone • +01952 • Vehicle • JK 05
Website	www.baramulla.nic.in

Baramulla (translation: Boar's Molar),^[1] known as Varahamula in antiquity, is a city and municipality in Baramulla district in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It is located on the banks of Jhelum river downstream of Srinagar, the capital city of the state.

Origin[link]

The name Baramulla, meaning "Boar's Molar" (from the root word Mula which means deep)^[2] is derived from two Sanskrit words Varaha (Boar) and Mula. According to Hindu teaching, the valley of Kashmir was once a lake called "Satisaras," the lake of Parvati. The ancient Hindu texts state that the lake was occupied by a demon, Jalodbhava, until Lord Vishnu, assumed the form of a boar and struck the mountain at Baramulla (ancient Varahamula) boring an opening in it for the water to flow out.^[3]

Ancient Indian cities showing Varaha, where modern Baramulla is situated

History[link]

Ancient and medieval[link]

The city of Baramulla was founded by Raja Bhimsina in 2306 BCE.

A number of prominent visitors have travelled to Baramulla. These include the famous Chinese visitor Heiun T'Sang and the British historian, Moorcraft. Mughal emperors had special fascination for Baramulla. Being the gateway of the Kashmir Valley, Baramulla was a halting station for them during their visits to the valley. In 1508 CE Emperor Akbar, who entered the valley via Pakhil, spent a few days at Baramulla and, according to "Tarikh-e-Hassan", the city had been decorated like a bride during Akbar's stay. Jahangir also stayed at Baramulla during his visit to Kashmir in 1620 CE.

From the very beginning, Baramulla has enjoyed religious importance. The construction of Hindu Teertha and Buddhist Vihars made the city scared to Hindus as well as Buddhists. In the 15th century, the place became important to Muslims also, as the famous Muslim saint, Syed Janbaz Wali, who visited the valley along with his companions in 1421 CE, chose Baramulla as the centre of his mission and was buried here after death. His shrine attracts pilgrims from all over the Valley. In 1894, the sixth Sikh Guru Shri Hargobind visited the city. Baramulla thus became an abode of Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists and Sikhs living in harmony and contributing to a rich composite culture.^[4]

It was the oldest and the most important town in north of princely state of Kashmir and Jammu and the 'Gateway of Kashmir Valley' by Rawalpindi-Murree-Muzaffarabad-Baramulla Road until 27 October 1947. It became a part of Union of India when the Maharaja signed the instrument of accession on 26 October 1947 which was accepted the next day.

Atrocities in October 1947[link]

On 2 October 1947, the Working Committee of the National Conference met under Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah's presidentship and took the decision to support the accession to India but Maharaja Hari Singh wanted to remain independent.

A large number of tribals from Pakistan attacked Kashmir under the code name "Operation Gulmarg" to seize Kashmir. The invading tribals started moving along Rawalpindi-Murree-Muzaffarabad-Baramulla Road on 22 October 1947 with Pakistani army men in plain clothes. Muzaffarabad fell on 24 October 1947. They reached and captured Baramulla on 25 October. There they stayed for several days looting, raping, killing, burning, plundering and desecrating and vandalising shrines and temples instead of moving on to Srinagar just 50km away and capture its airfield which was not defended at all. They raped and killed European nuns (only one survived) at Baramulla's St. Joseph convent and Christian nurses at the missionary hospital. This savage orgy of loot, rape, murder and abduction of girls continued for several days.^[5] Baramulla suffered this savage orgy but saved the rest of Kashmir because the airplanes carrying the Indian troops airlifted from Delhi on the morning of 27 October could land at Srinagar airfield as the invaders were still at Baramulla.

Charles Chevenix Trench writes in his 'The Frontier Scouts' (1985):

In October 1947... tribal lashkars hastened in lorries - undoubtedly with official logistic support - into Kashmir... at least one British Officer, Harvey-Kelly took part in the campaign. It seemed that nothing could stop these hordes of tribesmen taking Srinagar with its vital airfield. Indeed nothing did, but their own greed. The Mahsuds in particular stopped to loot, rape and murder; Indian troops were flown in and the lashkars pushed out of the Vale of Kashmir into the mountains. The Mahsuds returned home in a savage mood, having muffed an easy chance, lost the loot of Srinagar and made fools of themselves.

Tom Cooper of Air Combat Information Group wrote:^[6]

…the Pathans appeared foremost interested in looting, killing, ransacking and other crimes against the inhabitants instead of a serious military action.

Biju Patnaik (who later became Chief Minister of Orissa) piloted the first plane to land at Srinagar airport that morning. He brought 17 soldiers of 1-Sikh regiment commanded by Lt.Col. Dewan Ranjit Rai. "...The pilot flew low on the airstrip twice to ensure that no raiders were around... Instructions from PM Nehru’s office were clear: If the airport was taken over by the enemy, you are not to land. Taking a full circle the DC-3 flew ground level. Anxious eye-balls peered from inside the aircraft – only to find the airstrip empty. Nary a soul was in sight. The raiders were busy distributing the war booty amongst them in Baramulla."

In the words of Gen Mohammad Akbar Khan (Brigadier-in-Charge, Pakistan, in his book "War for Kashmir in 1947"): "The uncouth raiders delayed in Baramulla for two (whole) days for some unknown reason."^[7]

It took two weeks for the Indian army to evict the raiders, who had been joined by Pakistani regular troops and became well-entrenched, from Baramulla.

Recent years[link]

Roads have been improved and road network has grown considerably in Baramulla town since 1947. New schools and colleges have started and better facilities for education have been created. More bridges on Jhelum river have been constructed or planned to connect the old town on the north bank of the river with the new town on the south bank. Decongestion of the old town has been attempted by moving some residents to houses in the new town.

The most recent development has been creation of railway connectivity with Srinagar, Anantnag and Qazigund and the planned connectivity with Banihal and Jammu.

Geography[link]

Baramulla city is located on the banks of Jhelum river at the highest point of the river. The old town lies on the north (right) bank of the river and the new town lies on the south (left) bank. They are connected by five bridges including a suspension bridge connecting Gulnar park with Dewan Bagh. Five more bridges are being constructed or planned. A new bridge will connect Khanpora and Drangbal areas of the City.

The old town is congested and much smaller than the new town. Government offices, civil hospital, district hospital, bus station and most other facilities are situated in the new town. The railway station is on the eastern end of the new town on left bank of the river.

Past the old town, the Jhelum river divides into two channels at Khadanyar just before police headquarters and forms an island that has been designated Eco Park.

Demographics[link]

As of 2001 India census the area under the jurisdiction of Baramulla town committee (a kind of municipality) had a population of 61,830^[8] but Baramulla urban agglomeration had a population of 71,896^[9]. Males constituted 55% of the population and females 45%. Baramulla had an average literacy rate of 65%,^{[citation needed]} higher than the national average of 59.5%; with 63% of the males and 37% of the females literate. 11% of the population was under 6 years of age.

Baramulla consists of Sher-e-Khas [old City] (approx. population 45,000) and the new City (Greater Baramulla, approx. population 57,000)^{[citation needed]}. The total population of Baramulla municipality was, however, less than 100,000 as per 2011 census and the city did not appear in the list of cities that had a population of one lakh or more as per 2011 census.

Economy[link]

Baramulla is the largest producer of horticulture products in the state. World-class apples are grown here.

Education[link]

Baramulla has a Kendriya Vidyalaya (Central School) and a Sainik (Military) School, both affiliated to the Central Board of Secondary Education. St. Joseph's School, Baramulla, is one of the oldest missionary schools in Kashmir valley. Other private schools include Baramulla Public Hr. Sec. School and Delhi Public School. There are a number of government-run public schools. Higher Secondary schools are also known as intermediate colleges.

Baramulla has Govt. Degree College for Boys and Govt. Degree College for Women. The city has a nursing college associated with the district hospital. A medical college and a polytechnic college are planned (when?). Two more degree colleges for boys and girls may be started in the city. North campus of University of Kashmir is situated in Baramulla city and an engineering college has started there.

Healthcare[link]

Baramulla has a district civil hospital and a district veterinary hospital with facilities such as radiology (x-ray) and ultrasonography. A new building costing about INR 10 million for the veterinary hospital is under construction. of which 60% works have been completed till date.

Eco Park[link]

Eco Park, Khadniyar, Baramulla is located at the island in the middle of Jhelum river on the road from Baramulla town to Uri. It is approached by a wooden bridge. In has been recently developed by J&K Tourism Development Corporation with a blend of modern substructure and natural exquisiteness. It offers a great view with mountains in the background, Jhelum river flowing along the island and lush green well-maintained garden with some beautifully designed wooden huts. It is one of the best places to visit in the Baramulla and is a famous destination of locals particularly in summer evenings. Some tourists also visit it. A cable car project and expansion of the existing eco park have been planned.^[10].

Transport[link]

Access To Baramulla[link]

[edit] From Srinagar

Baramulla town is located about 55 km (34 mi) from Srinagar, the capital of Jammu & Kashmir state. National Highway NH-1A connects the town to the rest of the country. Taxi and busses to the town are available from Srinagar and Jammu. The nearest airport is at Srinagar. The nearest railhead is Jammu Tawi, about 360 km (224 mi) to the south.

From Uri and Muzaffarabad[link]

The 123 km (76 mi) road from Muzaffarabad to Baramulla is along Jhelum river. It crosses the actual line of conrol and then passes through Uri town, 45 km (28 mi) to the west of Baramulla town. The first 5 km of the road from Uri to Baramulla is not along the river but the remaining 40 km (25 mi) is along the river and passes through fine scenery of wooded mountains-slopes broken by cliffs that rise to great heights above the path while below it the river either flows in narrow paths or roars over ledges and other obstacles.

Air[link]

Srinagar is the nearest airport, 50 km (31 mi) to the southeast. Jammu, the summer capital of the state also has an airport.

Road[link]

Baramulla is connected to Pattan, Uri, Sopore, Gulmarg, Tangmarg and other towns in Baramuula district by road. It is also connected to Srinagar and other towns in Kashmir by road. It is also connected to Muzaffarabad across the actual line of conrol by 123 km (76 mi) road that was closed in October 1947 after invasion by Pakistani tribals. The road was reopened in 2005 but the travel across the line of control is highly restricted and controlled.

Railway[link]

Baramulla is the last station on the 119 km (74 mi) long Kashmir railway that started in October 2009 and connects Baramulla to Srinagar and Qazigund. The railway track will connect to Banihal across the Pir Panjal mountains through the newly constructed 11km long Banihal tunnel in 2012 and finally to Indian railway network after a few years.

Language[link]

The commonly used language is Kashmiri, followed by Gujari, Hindi, and Punjabi.^[11]

References[link]