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Jute fiber is being dehydrated after retting alongside a road

Jute Rope

Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is produced from plants in the genus Corchorus, which has been classified in the family Tiliaceae, or more recently in Malvaceae. However, it has been reclassified within the family Sparrmanniaceae.

Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibres and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses of vegetable fibres. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major components of wood fibre). It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially wood. It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute. The fibres are off-white to brown, and 1–4 metres (3–12 feet) long.

Cultivation[link]

Jute plants (Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis)

Jute needs a plain alluvial soil and standing water. The suitable climate for growing jute (warm and wet climate) is offered by the monsoon climate during the monsoon season. Temperatures from 20˚C to 40˚C and relative humidity of 70%–80% are favourable for successful cultivation. Jute requires 5–8 cm of rainfall weekly and more during the sowing period.

[edit] White jute (Corchorus capsularis)

Several historical documents (including, Ain-e-Akbari by Abul Fazal in 1590) state that the poor villagers of India used to wear clothes made of jute. Simple handlooms and hand spinning wheels were used by the weavers, who used to spin cotton yarns as well. History also states that Indians, especially Bengalis, used ropes and twines made of white jute from ancient times for household and other uses.

[edit] Tossa jute (Corchorus olitorius)

Tossa jute (Corchorus olitorius) is an Afro-Arabian variety. It is quite popular for its leaves that are used as an ingredient in a mucilaginous potherb called molokhiya (ملوخية a word of uncertain etymology), popular in certain Arab countries. The Book of Job in the Hebrew Bible mentions this vegetable potherb as Jew's mallow.^{[citation needed]}

Tossa jute fibre is softer, silkier, and stronger than white jute. This variety astonishingly showed good sustainability in the climate of the Ganges Delta. Along with white jute, tossa jute has also been cultivated in the soil of Bengal where it is known as paat from the start of the 19th century. Currently, the Bengal region (West Bengal in India, and Bangladesh) is the largest global producer of the tossa jute variety.

Jute Fiber

History[link]

For centuries, jute has been an integral part of culture of Bengal, in the entire southwest of Bangladesh and some portions of West Bengal. During the British Raj in the 19th and early 20th centuries, much of the raw jute fibre of Bengal was carried off to the United Kingdom, where it was then processed in mills concentrated in Dundee. Initially, due to its texture, it could only be processed by hand until it was discovered in that city that by treating it with whale oil, it could be treated by machine^[1] The industry boomed ("jute weaver" was a recognised trade occupation in the 1901 UK census), but this trade had largely ceased by about 1970 due to the appearance of synthetic fibres.

Margaret Donnelly, a jute mill landowner in Dundee in the 1800s, set up the first jute mills in Bengal. In the 1950s and 1960s, when nylon and polythene were rarely used, one of the primary sources of foreign exchange earnings for the erstwhile United Pakistan was the export of jute products, based on jute grown in then East Bengal now Bangladesh. Jute has been called the "Golden Fibre of Bangladesh." However, as the use of polythene and other synthetic materials as a substitute for jute increasingly captured the market, the jute industry in general experienced a decline.

During some years in the 1980s, farmers in Bangladesh burnt their jute crops when an adequate price could not be obtained. Many jute exporters diversified away from jute to other commodities. Jute-related organisations and government bodies were also forced to close, change or downsize. The long decline in demand forced the largest jute mill in the world (Adamjee Jute Mills) to close in Bangladesh. Bangladesh's second largest mill, Latif Bawany Jute Mills, formerly owned by businessman, Yahya Bawany, was nationalized by the government. Farmers in Bangladesh have not completely ceased growing jute, however, mainly due to demand in the internal market. Between 2004–2010, the jute market recovered and the price of raw jute increased more than 500%^{[citation needed]}.

Jute has entered many diverse sectors of industry, where natural fibres are gradually becoming better substitutes. Among these industries are paper, celluloid products (films), non-woven textiles, composites, (pseudo-wood), and geotextiles. In 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres, so as to raise the profile of jute and other natural fibres.

Production[link]

Jute is a rain-fed crop with little need for fertilizer or pesticides. The production is concentrated in India and some in Bangladesh, mainly Bengal. The jute fibre comes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant. The fibres are first extracted by retting. The retting process consists of bundling jute stems together and immersing them in slow running water. There are two types of retting: stem and ribbon. After the retting process, stripping begins. Women and children usually do this job. In the stripping process, non-fibrous matter is scraped off, then the workers dig in and grab the fibres from within the jute stem.^[2] India, Pakistan, China are the large buyers of local jute while Britain, Spain, Ivory Coast, Germany and Brazil also import raw jute from Bangladesh. India is the world's largest jute growing country.

Top ten jute producers — 2008
Country	Production (Tonnes)	Footnote
India	1,846,000	F
Bangladesh	848,715	F
People's Republic of China	48,000	F
Myanmar	30,000	F
Uzbekistan	20,000	F
Nepal	16,988	F
Vietnam	8,800	F
Thailand	5,000	F
Sudan	3,300	F
Egypt	2,200	F
World	2833041	A
No symbol = official figure, F = FAO estimate, A = Aggregate (may include official, semi-official or estimates); Source: Food And Agricultural Organization of United Nations: Economic And Social Department: The Statistical Division

Genome[link]

On 16 June 2010, Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina declared that Bangladesh successfully completed the draft genome of jute. A consortium of researchers from University of Dhaka, Bangladesh Jute Research Institute (BJRI) and private software firm DataSoft Systems Bangladesh Ltd. in collaboration with Centre for Chemical Biology, University of Science Malaysia and University of Hawaii were involved in this project.^[3]

Uses[link]

Fibre[link]

Jute fabric

Jute matting being used to prevent flood erosion while natural vegetation becomes established. For this purpose, a natural and biodegradable fibre is essential.

Jute fibre is extracted from retted stem of jute plants

Jute is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton. Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth. The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, area rugs, hessian cloth, and backing for linoleum.

While jute is being replaced by synthetic materials in many of these uses, some uses take advantage of jute's biodegradable nature, where synthetics would be unsuitable. Examples of such uses include containers for planting young trees, which can be planted directly with the container without disturbing the roots, and land restoration where jute cloth prevents erosion occurring while natural vegetation becomes established.

The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibre to make twine and rope. Jute rope has long been popular in Japan for use in bondage^{[citation needed]}. Jute butts, the coarse ends of the plants, are used to make inexpensive cloth. Conversely, very fine threads of jute can be separated out and made into imitation silk. As jute fibres are also being used to make pulp and paper, and with increasing concern over forest destruction for the wood pulp used to make most paper, the importance of jute for this purpose may increase. Jute has a long history of use in the sackings, carpets, wrapping fabrics (cotton bale), and construction fabric manufacturing industry.

Traditionally jute was used in traditional textile machineries as textile fibres having cellulose (vegetable fibre content) and lignin (wood fibre content). But, the major breakthrough came when the automobile, pulp and paper, and the furniture and bedding industries started to use jute and its allied fibres with their non-woven and composite technology to manufacture nonwovens, technical textiles, and composites. Therefore, jute has changed its textile fibre outlook and steadily heading towards its newer identity, i.e., wood fibre. As a textile fibre, jute has reached its peak from where there is no hope of progress, but as a wood fibre jute has many promising features.^[4]

Jute is used in the manufacture of a number of fabrics such as Hessian cloth, sacking, scrim, carpet backing cloth (CBC), and canvas. Hessian, lighter than sacking, is used for bags, wrappers, wall-coverings, upholstery, and home furnishings. Sacking, a fabric made of heavy jute fibres, has its use in the name. CBC made of jute comes in two types. Primary CBC provides a tufting surface, while secondary CBC is bonded onto the primary backing for an overlay. Jute packaging is used as an eco-friendly substitute.

Diversified jute products are becoming more and more valuable to the consumer today. Among these are espadrilles, floor coverings, home textiles, high performance technical textiles, Geotextiles, composites, and more.

Jute floor coverings consist of woven and tufted and piled carpets. Jute Mats and mattings with 5 / 6 mts width and of continuous length are easily being woven in Southern parts of India, in solid and fancy shades, and in different weaves like, Boucle, Panama, Herringbone, etc. Jute Mats & Rugs are made both through Powerloom & Handloom, in large volume from Kerala, India. The traditional Satranji mat is becoming very popular in home décor. Jute non-wovens and composites can be used for underlay, linoleum substrate, and more.

Jute has many advantages as a home textile, either replacing cotton or blending with it. It is a strong, durable, color and light-fast fibre. Its UV protection, sound and heat insulation, low thermal conduction and anti-static properties make it a wise choice in home décor. Also, fabrics made of jute fibres are carbon-dioxide neutral and naturally decomposable. These properties are also why jute can be used in high performance technical textiles.^[2]

Moreover, jute can be grown in 4-6 months with a huge amount of cellulose being produced from the jute hurd (inner woody core or parenchyma of the jute stem) that can meet most of the wood needs of the world. Jute is the major crop among others that is able to protect deforestation by industrialisation.

Thus, jute is the most environment-friendly fibre starting from the seed to expired fibre, as the expired fibres can be recycled more than once.

Jute is also used to make ghillie suits, which are used as camouflage and resemble grasses or brush.

Another diversified jute product is Geotextiles, which made this agricultural commodity more popular in the agricultural sector. It is a lightly woven fabric made from natural fibres that is used for soil erosion control, seed protection, weed control, and many other agricultural and landscaping uses. The Geotextiles can be used more than a year and the bio-degradable jute Geotextile left to rot on the ground keeps the ground cool and is able to make the land more fertile. Methods such as this could be used to transfer the fertility of the Ganges Delta to the deserts of Sahara or Australia^{[citation needed]}.

Jute bags[link]

Jute has gained an advantage as being an eco-friendly option instead of poly and paper bags as polybag are made from petroleum and are non-biodegradable and manufacturing paperbags requires large quantities of wood. Jute has none of these problems and is therefore being used widely for these purposes although higher cost does place jute at a disadvantage. Jute is also used for making fashion & promotional bags.

Other[link]

Jute stalks are being dehydrated under the sun, later they will be used as fuel.

Diversified byproducts from jute can be used in cosmetics, medicine, paints, and other products.

Features[link]

Picture of cutting lower part of the long jute fibre. The lower part is hard fibre, which is called jute cuttings in Bangladesh and India (commonly called jute butts or jute tops elsewhere). Jute cuttings are lower in quality, but have commercial value for the paper, carded yarn, and other fibre processing industries. Jute fibres are kept in bundles in the background in a warehouse in Bangladesh.

• Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly.
• It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fibre.
• It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem.
• It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability.
• It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging.
• It helps to make best quality industrial yarn, fabric, net, and sacks. It is one of the most versatile natural fibres that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-textile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Bulking of yarn results in a reduced breaking tenacity and an increased breaking extensibility when blended as a ternary blend.
• The best source of jute in the world is the Bengal Delta Plain in the Ganges Delta, most of which is occupied by Bangladesh.
• Advantages of jute include good insulating and antistatic properties, as well as having low thermal conductivity and a moderate moisture regain. Other advantages of jute include acoustic insulating properties and manufacture with no skin irritations.
• Jute has the ability to be blended with other fibres, both synthetic and natural, and accepts cellulosic dye classes such as natural, basic, vat, sulfur, reactive, and pigment dyes. As the demand for natural comfort fibres increases, the demand for jute and other natural fibres that can be blended with cotton will increase. To meet this demand, some manufactures in the natural fibre industry plan to modernize processing with the Rieter's Elitex system. The resulting jute/cotton yarns will produce fabrics with a reduced cost of wet processing treatments. Jute can also be blended with wool. By treating jute with caustic soda, crimp, softness, pliability, and appearance is improved, aiding in its ability to be spun with wool. Liquid ammonia has a similar effect on jute, as well as the added characteristic of improving flame resistance when treated with flameproofing agents.
• Some noted disadvantages include poor drapability and crease resistance, brittleness, fibre shedding, and yellowing in sunlight. However, preparation of fabrics with castor oil lubricants result in less yellowing and less fabric weight loss, as well as increased dyeing brilliance. Jute has a decreased strength when wet, and also becomes subject to microbial attack in humid climates. Jute can be processed with an enzyme in order to reduce some of its brittleness and stiffness. Once treated with an enzyme, jute shows an affinity to readily accept natural dyes, which can be made from marigold flower extract. In one attempt to dye jute fabric with this extract, bleached fabric was mordanted with ferrous sulphate, increasing the fabric's dye uptake value. Jute also responds well to reactive dyeing. This process is used for bright and fast coloured value-added diversified products made from jute.

See also[link]

• Jute cultivation
• Bast fibre
• Behind Products: A study on Crafts of Bangladesh (book)
• Cash crop
• Cellulose
• Lignin
• Jute trade

Notes[link]

References[link]

External links[link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Jute

• Jute Genome Project
• Jute handicraft products
• Bangladesh Jute Research Institute
• Jute at the Open Directory Project
• International Jute Study Group (IJSG) Resources about jute, kenaf and roselle plants. jute.org
• US Jute Bag Advocacy
• Department of Horticulture & Landscape Architecture, Purdue University Some chemistry and medicinal information on tossa jute. purdue.edu
• National Library of Scotland: SCOTTISH SCREEN ARCHIVE (selection of archive films about the jute industry in Dundee)

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Karan Casey (born 1969) is an Irish folk singer, and a former member of the Irish band Solas.

Early years[link]

Casey was born in Ballyduff Lower, Kilmeaden, County Waterford, Ireland. Her family encouraged her to sing in the house, in a church choir and at school. At Waterford Regional Technical College she studied piano then took music at University College Dublin in 1987. Having learned to copy Ella Fitzgerald's scat singing, she performed in a Dublin bistro several nights per week while still a student. At the Royal Irish Academy of Music she studied classical music and sang in a jazz band, then a folk-ballad band, then another jazz band. She also fell under the influence of Dublin folk singer Frank Harte. During this time she also formed her own band, called "Dorothy".

Immigration to the USA[link]

In 1993 Karan moved to New York City. There she studied jazz at Long Island University. When she began to frequent Irish traditional sessions in New York, she started singing Irish traditional music again. During this time she mostly sang in bars and local centres. During 1994, she sang with Atlantic Bridge before joining Solas. She sang five songs on their début album in 1996 while also performing jazz and folk material herself in Tramps club in Manhattan, accompanied only by a percussionist. In 1997, Karan recorded a solo album, Songlines, inspired by the novel of the same name by Bruce Chatwin. It was produced by Séamus Egan and included several members of Solas. The album featured both Irish traditional and contemporary folk songs.

Solo career[link]

Karan left Solas at the beginning of 1999 to pursue her solo ambitions. She then moved back to Ireland, although frequently travelled between her home in Cork and America. In 2000 Karan collaborated with several other vocalists on Seal Maiden: a Celtic Musical. It was a musical version of the film "The Secret of Roan Inish", designed for children. It concerned the mythical creature called the selkie (in this case, a seal-woman). Casey's songs were arranged by her friend and regular collaborator Iarla Ó Lionáird.

In 2001, Casey finished working on her second solo album, The Winds Begin to Sing (2001) which was well received by critics and propelled Casey into a stable solo career. She released Distant Shore in 2003 and toured extensively throughout the Americas and Europe. In 2005, Casey released Chasing the Sun featuring Irish traditional and folk songs which she learned from her mother and maternal grandmother. Chasing the Sun, included a number of songs written by Casey herself as well as songs by young Belfast musician Barry Kerr. The album was well received and was the last to be released on the Shanachie and Vertical labels so that Casey, husband Niall Vallely and other associated acts could release her music independently.

In 2006, Casey joined her previous band Solas to guest on their live DVD and album, Reunion: a Decade of Solas. On the recordings, Casey was joined by all of the band's past members and current members from the period. She joined Deirdre Scanlan (Solas vocalist 2000-2007) and Antje Duvekot along with the male vocalists from the band.

In 2008, Karan Casey and her husband set up Crow Valley Music to release Karan's latest album, Ships in the Forest in Europe. The album was released on Compass Records in the Americas.

Personal life[link]

Karan is married to Irish concertina player Niall Vallely and has collaborated frequently with the Vallely brothers and their bands. She has two daughters (Muireann and Áine) and currently lives in Coome, County Cork.

Discography[link]

Solo albums[link]

• 1997 - Songlines
• 2000 - Seal Maiden (Karan Casey & friends)
• 2001 - The Winds Begin To Sing
• 2003 - Distant Shore
• 2005 - Chasing The Sun
• 2008 - Ships in the Forest

With Solas[link]

• 1996 - Solas
• 1997 - Sunny Spells and Scattered Showers
• 1998 - The Words That Remain
• 2006 - Reunion: A Decade of Solas (CD/DVD)

Miscellaneous recordings[link]

• 1996 - Her Song: Exotic Voices of Women from Around the World (Various Artists)
• 1997 - Celtic Tapestry, Vol. 2 (Various Artists)
• 1997 - Holding up Half the Sky: Women's Voices from Around the World (Various Artists)
• 1997 - Her Song: Exotic Voices of Women from Around the World (Various Artists)
• 1997 - Voices of Celtic Women: Holding up Half the Sky (Various Artists)
• 1998 - Africans in America (Original Television Soundtrack) (Various Artists)
• 1998 - Celtic Tides (Various Artists)
• 1998 - Greatest Hits (Paul Winter)
• 1998 - Legends of Ireland (Various Artists)
• 1998 - Winter's Tale (Various Artists)
• 1999 - Celtic Solstice (Paul Winter)
• 1999 - Holding up Half the Sky: Voices of Celtic Women Vol 2 (Various Artists)
• 1999 - Thousands Are Sailing (Various Artists)
• 2000 - Emerald Aether: Shape Shifting/Reconstructions Of Irish Music (Bill Laswell)
• 2000 - Fused (Michael McGoldrick)
• 2000 - Fits of Passion - High Spirited Celtic Captured by Starbucks (Various Artists)
• 2000 - Ceol Tacsaí (Various Artists)
• 2001 - Celtic Christmas: Silver Anniversary Edition (Various Artists)
• 2001 - Evening Comes Early (John Doyle)
• 2001 - Two Journeys (Tim O'Brien)
• 2001 - Lullaby: a Collection (Various Artists)
• 2003 - Brown Girl in the Ring (Various Artists)
• 2004 - Very Best of Celtic Christmas (Various Artists)
• 2004 - Other Voices: Songs from a Room Vol 2 (Various Artists)
• 2005 - Lullaby: 20th Anniversary Special Edition (Various Artists)
• 2005 - 20 Great Kid’s Songs: 20th Anniversary Special Collector’s Edition (Various Artists)
• 2005 - Folktopia (Various Artists)
• 2006 - Acoustic Affair Vol. 1 (Various Artists)
• 2007 - A Christmas Celtic Sojourn Live (Various Artists)
• 2007 - Excalibur: Vol. 2 (Alan Simon)
• 2010 - Exiles Return (with John Doyle)

External links[link]

• Official website
• Wedding in Barga between Karan and husband Niall
• Karan Casey Uk Tour 2009 Folk Radio UK