- Eger is also the German name for the Czech town of Cheb and for the Ohře river.
Eger - Dobó square and the castle.
Eger (Hungarian pronunciation: [ˈɛɡɛr]; German: Erlau; Turkish: Eğri ) is the second largest city in Northern Hungary, the county seat of Heves, east of the Mátra Mountains. Eger is best known for its castle, thermal baths, historic buildings (including the northernmost Turkish minaret), and red and white wines.
The name Eger is thought to derive from the Hungarian word égerfa (alder tree). In German, the town is known as Erlau, in Latin as Agria, in Serbian and Croatian as Jegar / Јегар or Jegra / Јегра, in Czech and Slovene as Jager, in Slovak as Jáger, in Polish as Jagier, and in Turkish as Eğri.
Eger has been inhabited since the Stone Age. Today's Eger was formed in the 10th century by St. Stephen (997–1038), the first Christian king of Hungary, who founded an episcopal see in Eger. The first cathedral of Eger was built on Castle Hill, within the present site of Eger Castle. Eger grew up around its former cathedral and has remained an important religious centre in Hungary since its foundation. The 14th-16th centuries were an age of prosperity for Eger. Winegrowing, for which the town is still famous for, began to be important around that time. The bishops of Eger built beautiful buildings in the city during 18th and 19th centuries.
During the Turkish advance into Central Hungary, Eger became an important border fortress, successfully defended by Hungarian forces in the 1552 Siege of Eger. The first writer of note to draw on the story was the Hungarian renaissance poet and musician Sebestyén Tinódi Lantos (c. 1510-1556), whose account may have come partly from eye witnesses. Most Hungarians know best the version of this story found in the 1899 novel "Eclipse of the Crescent Moon" (Hungarian "Egri csillagok", lit. "Stars of Eger") by the 19th century Hungarian author Gárdonyi Géza, which is set reading under the Hungarian national curriculum.
However, Eger was attacked in 1596 by a bigger army of Turks, who took over the castle after a short siege. Then followed 91 years of Ottoman rule in which Eger was the seat of the Turkish Eger Eyalet (administrative division). Churches were converted into mosques, the castle rebuilt, and other structures erected, including public baths and minarets.
The rule of the Turks in Central Hungary began to collapse after a failed Ottoman attempt to capture Vienna. The Vienna-based Habsburgs, who controlled the rest of Hungary, apart from Transylvania, steadily expelled the Turks from the country. The castle of Eger was starved into surrender by the Christian army led by Charles of Lorraine in 1687, after the castle of Buda had been retaken in 1686.
Main entrance of the castle
Eger soon began to prosper again. The city was reclaimed by its bishops, which caused many local Protestants to leave. Although the city supported the Hungarian leader Prince Francis II Rákóczi in the 1703-1711 war of independence against the Habsburgs, the Hungarians were eventually defeated by the Imperial army. Soon after that, the city was ravaged by plague. However, immigration into Eger was strong, and the population rose from 6000 to 10,000 between 1725 and 1750. Many new buildings were built in Baroque and later in Rococo and Neoclassical style, including the cathedral, the Archiepiscopal Palace, the County Hall, the Lyceum (now housing the Eszterházy College of Education) and several churches, while others were reclaimed from being mosques.
The 19th century began with disasters: a fire that destroyed half the town in 1800, and a collapse of the south wall of the Castle in 1801, which ruined several houses. Eger became the seat of an archbishopric in 1804, and the church remained in firm control of the city, despite efforts by its citizens to obtain greater freedom. In 1827, much of the city centre was damaged by fire again, and four years later over 200 were killed in an outbreak of cholera.
The inhabitants of Eger took an active part in the revolution in 1848. Even though the revolution was suppressed, the age of landowners and serfs had gone forever, and the municipality gained freedom from the rule of the archbishop in 1854. However, the main railway line between Miskolc and Pest bypassed the city, which was only reached later by a branch line from Füzesabony.
Economic recovery was slow after World War I, although the 1899 publication of Gárdonyi's "Eclipse of the Crescent Moon" made Eger popular as a tourist attraction and archaeological excavation of the castle resumed. In World War II, the city suffered under the retreating German army and the arriving Soviet army, but it managed to escape major bombardment.
Eger today is a prosperous city and popular tourist destination with a charming Baroque town centre.
Eger is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Eger, an ecclesiastical province of Hungary founded as a bishopric in 1009 and made a Metropolitan archdiocese in 1804, by Pope Pius VII. The current archbishop-elect, Archbishop Csaba Ternyak, was previously Secretary for the Congregation For Clergy. He succeeds Archbishop István Seregely, who retired because of age. The constituent dioceses of the province were Košice (Kassa, Kaschau), Rožňava (Rozsnyó, Rosenau, now part of Slovakia), Szatmár and Szepes (Zipo, Zipsen).
Beside its historic sights and its thermal baths, Eger is famous for its wines. In fact, it produces both red and white wines of high quality Eger Wine Region. The famous and traditional varieties of the region are Egri Leányka, Egerszóláti Olaszrizling, Debrői Hárslevelű (whites), and Egri Bikavér (a red). More recently, Chardonnay and Pinot noir wines have appeared. The region's wines are said to bear a resemblance to those of Burgundy. Although the quality of the wines deteriorated in the second half of the 20th century, especially the cuvees, Eger is slowly recovering its reputation as a wine region.
The main railway station is located 1,5 km from the city center. MÁV operates fast train services to Budapest, and the trip is about 1 1/2 hours. This is called the intercity train. The regional train takes just over 2 hours with no changing of trains. Local trains to Füzesabony and Szilvásvárad also depart from this station. Almar is a popular stop for weekend gardeners and hikers alike. There are also smaller stations located near the Castle (Varallomas), and in the Felnémet district, that are served by the Eger - Szilvásvárad local trains.
The long distance bus stop is in the city center. Buses depart approx. every 30 minutes to Budapest, and the trip to the capital is about 1 1/2 hours. Agria Volán operates an extensive network of suburban and long distance buses. Other bus companies also offer connections to a variety of destinations. Taking the bus to Felsotarkany gets you close to several hiking and mountain biking trails that start in town. Trails are well marked, and maps come in handy when identifying trailheads starting from town.
Agria Volan also operates a fleet of local buses, serving most parts of the city, although the majority of buses run in North - South direction. Line 12 is the busiest line in the city, and it has stops at the Main Railway Station, the long distance bus station and in the city centre.
Dobó Square and the Forst House
Aerial photography of the Castle and a part of the Downtown, Tetemvár, Almagyar and Cifra hóstya.
The ruins of the medieval cathedral
(Note: Most of these districts are historical, but they often appear on maps and street signs.)
- Almagyar - This hill in the Eastern part of the town is one of the smart areas of Eger, near the castle. The streets are steep, but the views are great! The southern part contains some of the buildings (campus and dormitories) of Eszterházy College.
- Almár - The northernmost part of the town, it consists mainly of weekend cottages and plots for gardeners.
- Belváros (City centre) - The centre of Eger is often called "the Baroque Pearl of Europe". Here are located Dobó tér, the main square of the historical town, surrounded by Baroque houses and St. Anthony's Church. Other historic buildings nearby include the Cathedral and the Lyceum.
- Berva is housing estate about 2 km to the NW of Eger. Founded in 1951 it was a huge industrial park by the name of Finomszerelvénygyár, privatized in 1992.
- Castle of Eger - The oldest and most famous part of Eger.
- Cifra hóstya - North of downtown, this part of town is full of small houses and narrow streets. You can find the Firefighters' Museum there.
- Csákó - a suburban area with larger houses, east of the railway station.
- Érsekkert (Bishop's Garden) - The largest park in Eger, with sport facilities, a small lake, and a fountain.
- Felnémet - This village was annexed to Eger in the second half of the 20th century and still has a rural character. It became the suburb of Eger largely due to that towns expansion to the north. The parish church (1715-1750s, designed by Gian Battista Carlone, an Italian who settled in Eger) was started by Bishop Gábor Antal Erdődy as a votive church after an outbreak of bubonic plague in 1710, and completed by his successor. It was dedicated to St. Rosalia, a guardian against plague.
- Felsőváros (Upper Town, former Csebokszari) - The largest housing estate of Eger, it is full of four and ten-storied concrete buildings, providing homes for one third of the city's population. There are three high schools there.
- Hajdúhegy - a suburban area similar to Almagyar across the valley with downtown being in between these 2 hills.
- Hatvani hóstya - The district is split by Highway 25. It contains the stadium and the Reformed church.
- Industrial zone - Several multinational companies have moved into this area east of Lajosváros (Kanada).
- Károlyváros (Charles Town) - One of the largest districts of Eger, Károlyváros is west of downtown. It contains the High School for the Health Professions, and the Agria Park Shopping Mall.
- Lajosváros (Louis Town) - This district in the southern part of the town has several high schools and student hostels. It consists mainly of detached houses. Also called Kanada - rumor has it once emigrated to Canada retirees moved back here to the homeland.
- Maklári hóstya, Tihamér - This district is one of the fastest developing parts of the town. It contains public swimming pools.
- Pásztorvölgy - A suburban area. Also has a school.
- Rác hóstya - Another suburban area west from Upper Town.
- Szépasszonyvölgy ("Valley of the Beautiful Woman") - An area of Eger famous for its red wines (Bikaver or Bulls Blood) and known for its wine cellars.
- Tetemvár - Another suburban area. The name ("Corpses' Castle") derives from the legend that Turkish war dead were buried here in 1552.
- Vécseyvölgy - A suburban area with a small airfield for sports purposes.
(Eger has 17 churches, but tourists usually visit only three or four)
- Castle of Eger
- The Cathedral or basilica, built in 1831-37 to Classicist designs by József Hild, is imposing rather than attractive, but contains some remarkable painting and sculpture. Late morning organ recitals are held frequently.
- Minaret, 17th century. The northernmost Turkish minaret in Europe is 40 meters high and one of only three survivors in Hungary. It can be climbed for a good view of the city centre.
- Város a város alatt (literally "City under the city") a system of cellars near the Cathedral.
- Szépasszonyvölgy ("The Valley of the Beautiful Woman". A valley on the southern edge of Eger which has numerous wine cellars, each with their own wine bar catering to tourists. A tram shuttles tourists to/from Dobó tér in the summer months.
- Dobó tér. The Baroque Minorite Church (1758–67), built to the designs of Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer of Prague with original ceiling frescoes by Márton Reindl, is the focal point of the city's most imposing square, flanked by the City Hall and the old priory buildings, part of which contain the Palóc Museum, showing the artefacts of a distinctive regional ethnic community. The square and several of the retail streets around it are pedestrianized.
- The Lyceum (Eszterházy College), designed by József Gerl and Jakab Fellner and built in 1765-85, is a splendid example of the restrained Zopf style. There are three remarkable 18th-century frescoed ceilings, of which only the one in the library is open to the public. Painted by the Viennese artist Johann Lukas Kracker in 1778, it depicts the Council of Trent of 1545-63, which launched the Counter-Reformation. Among the figures depicted are the Reformers Luther and Zwingli, whose "heretical" books are being struck by a bolt of lightning. The beautifully furnished library opened in 1793. There is a camera obscura or periscope at the top of the building, projecting images of the city onto a table.
- Turkish Bath
- The Provost Minor's Palace, 1758, is the finest Rococo building in the city. It also has a fine fresco by Kracker ("The Triumph of Virtue over Sin"), other 18th-century murals, and remarkable 18th-century wrought ironwork.
- Agria Park, a shopping mall which opened in March 2008.
- Archbishop's Garden
- The Fazola gate
- The Minorite Church
- The Serbian Orthodox Church (Rác-templom) is in Zopf style (1784–86). The interior was commissioned from the best Viennese artists by the rich local Serbian community of that time. It is dominated by a breath-taking iconostasis.
- The Cistercian church
- The Archbishop's Palace
| Historical populations |
| Year |
Pop. |
±% |
| 1787 |
16,852 |
— |
| 1850 |
16,858 |
+0.0% |
| 1870 |
19,150 |
+13.6% |
| 1891 |
22,427 |
+17.1% |
| 1900 |
25,893 |
+15.5% |
| 1910 |
28,052 |
+8.3% |
| 1920 |
28,753 |
+2.5% |
| 1930 |
30,424 |
+5.8% |
| 1941 |
32,482 |
+6.8% |
| 1949 |
31,844 |
−2.0% |
| 1960 |
38,610 |
+21.2% |
| 1970 |
47,960 |
+24.2% |
| 1980 |
60,897 |
+27.0% |
| 1990 |
61,576 |
+1.1% |
| 2001 |
58,331 |
−5.3% |
| 2011 |
56,530 |
−3.1% |
Eger is twinned with:
Dolný Kubín, Slovakia
Cheboksary, Chuvash Republic, Russia
Esslingen am Neckar, Baden-Württemberg, Germany
Gainesville, GA, USA
Gheorgheni, Romania
Kutná Hora, Czech Republic
Mâcon, Burgundy, France
Pamukkale, Turkey
Pori, Finland
Przemyśl, Poland
Sarzana, Liguria, Italy
- Attribution
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County seat: Eger
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56,530
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