The dhoti, also known as pancha or veshti is the traditional men's garment in India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. A similar garment is worn in some rural areas of Punjab province in Pakistan, but the use is fast declining. It is a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted at the waist.

Pancha wearers are predominant in the states of Tamilnadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Maharastra, Karnataka, Bihar, West Bengal, and Orissa. In the northern parts of Gujarat and southern parts of Rajasthan the Pancha is worn with a short kurta called kediya on top. In both north and south India, notably Bihar, West Bengal, and parts Sri Lanka the garment is worn with a kurta on top, the combination known simply as dhoti kurta. In Tamil Nadu, it is worn with a sattai (shirt) or else with a chokka (shirt) in Andhra Pradesh or jubba (a local version of kurta). The lungi is a similar piece of cloth worn in a similar manner.

Names in India[link]

The name dhoti derives from Sanskrit dhauta^{[citation needed]}. The garment has numerous other names such as, ଧୋତି Dhotī in Oriya, called ધૉતિયુ Dhotiyu in Gujarati, চওৰকীয়কা Suriya in Assamese, ধুতি Dhuti in Bengali, ಢೊತಿ/ಕಛ್ಛೆ ಪನ್ಛೆ Dhoti or Kachche Panche in Kannada,‌ Dhotar, Angostar, Aad-neschey or Pudve in Konkani, മുണ്ട് Mundu in Malayalam, ధోతీ/పంచె Dhoti or Pancha in Telugu, धोतर Dhotar in Marathi, ਲ਼ਾਛ Laacha in Punjabi and "Mardaani" in cities of UP, Bihar, Terai, வேட்டி vEtti or வேஷ்டி vEshti in Tamil.

Custom and usage[link]

A Chakravati wears a pancha in an ancient style. First century BCE/CE. Amaravati, Andhra Pradesh. Musee Guimet

The Pancha is considered formal wear all over the country. In addition to all government and traditional family functions, the Pancha is also considered acceptable at country clubs and at other establishments that enforce strict formal dress codes. The same is true across the Indian subcontinent, particularly in Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and the Maldives. In many of these countries, the garment has become something of a mascot of cultural assertion, being greatly favoured by politicians and cultural figures. Thus, the pancha for many has taken on a more cultural nuance while the suit-and-tie or, in less formal occasions, the ubiquitous shirt and pants, are seen as standard formal and semi-formal wear.

In southern India, the garment is worn at all cultural occasions and traditional ceremonies. The bridegroom in a south Indian wedding and the host/main male participant of other rituals and ceremonies have necessarily to be dressed in the traditional pancha while performing the ceremonies.

Unspoken rules of etiquette govern the way the Pancha is worn. In south India, men will occasionally fold the garment in half and this reveals the legs from the knee downwards. However, it is considered disrespectful to speak to women or to one's social superiors with the Pancha folded up in this manner. When faced with such a social situation, the fold of the Pancha is loosened and allowed to cover the legs completely.

The pancha is worn by many orthodox Jain males when they visit the temple for prayer, as they are required to wear unstitched clothes in accordance to their belief in ahimsa. They wear a loose, unstitched cloth, shorter than the pancha on the top.

Pancha are worn by western adherents of the Hare Krishna sect, which is known for promoting a distinctive dress code among its practitioners, with followers wearing saffron or white coloured cloth, folded in the traditional style. Mahatma Gandhi invariably wore a pancha on public occasions,^{[citation needed]} but he was well aware that it was considered "indecent" in other countries and was shocked when a friend wore one in London. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti.^[1]

The genteel Bengali man is stereotyped in popular culture as wearing expensive perfumes, a light kurta and an elaborate dhuti with rich pleats, the front corner of the cloth being stiffed like a Japanese fan and holding it in his hand; while feverishly discussing politics and literature. It is considered the most elegant costume and is worn at Bengali weddings and cultural festivals.

Over the past century or more, western styles of clothing have been steadily gaining ground in the region, gradually rendering the pancha a garment for home-wear, not generally worn to work. It is less popular among the youth in major metropolises and is viewed as rustic, unfashionable and not 'hip' enough for the younger age-set. However, use of the pancha as a garment of daily use and homewear continues largely unabated.

Usage in Nepal[link]

Pancha are popular in the Terai region and the bordering Indian states.

In 2008, the newly elected first Vice-president of Nepal, Mr. Permanand Jha sparked protest and rallies in Nepali speaking areas of the country after he took the oath wearing Dhoti-Kurta, the traditional garment of the people of Terai.

Dhoti is also a derogatory term used to refer people from India inside or outside Nepal.

Styles and varieties[link]

The garment is known as the vaetti in Tamil Nadu and Mundu in Kerala. It is called pancha in Andhra Pradesh and panche in Karnataka, dhotar in Maharashtra and dhuti in Bengal. The word is related to the Sanskrit pancha meaning five. This may be a reference to the fact that a 5-yard-long strip of cloth is used. It is also related to the Sanskrit word dhuvati. In one elaborate south Indian style of draping the garment, five knots are used to wrap the garment, and this also is sometimes held to have originated the word.

It is usually white or cream in colour, although colourful hues are used for specific religious occasions or sometimes to create more vivid ensembles. Off-white dhuti are generally worn by the groom in Bengali weddings. White or turmeric-yellow is the prescribed hues to be worn by men at their weddings and upanayanams. Silk panchas, called Magatam or Pattu Pancha in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh respectively, are often used on these special occasions. Vermilion-red dhotis, called sowlay, are often used by priests at temples, especially in Maharashtra. Kings and poets used rich colors and elaborate gold-thread embroideries. Cotton dhotis suit the climatic conditions for daily usage. Silk panchas are suited for special occasions and are expensive.

There are several different ways of draping the panchas. The two most popular ones in south India are the plain wrap and the Pancha katcham (five knots or five folds). The first style is mostly seen mainly in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, southern parts of other two south Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. It is a simple wrap around the waist and resembles a long skirt and is usually 4 yards long. It will be folded in half up to knees while working. The second style consists of folding around the waist in the middle of the garment and tying the top ends in the front like a belt and tucking the falling left and right ends in the back. It is usually 8 yards long cloth. This style is popular across south Indian men while working in the fields.

The style in Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and in North India, also worn in the West by devotees of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, consists of folding the cloth in half, taking the left side, pleating it vertically, passing it between the legs and tucking it in the waist at the back. The right side is pleated horizontally and tucked in the waist at the front.

Along with dhoti, the angavastram or thundu (an extra piece of cloth) will be draped depending on its use. Farmers carry it on one shoulder and treat it as sweat towel. Bridegrooms use it as entire upper garment. It will be folded decoratively around the waist while dancing. South Indian Hindu priests wrap about the waist as the extra layer. North Indian priests (especially those of ISKCON) may drape it across the body with two corners tied at the shoulder, or they may wear a kurta instead.

The dhoti is also worn in the Horn of Africa, mainly by Somalis and Afars, where it is known as the macawis.

See also[link]

References[link]

External links[link]

• Mahatma Gandhi was shocked when a friend wore a pancha in London
• Dhotis at Devi.net
• How to tie a dhoti at Siddhashram.org
• How to tie a veshti at Ahobilam.com
• How to wear a dhoti at FashionTemptations.com

This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (May 2007)

Sanjeev Kumar (Hindi: संजीव कुमार; 9 July 1938 – 6 November 1985) was one of the most prominent Indian actors in Bollywood.

Personal life and background[link]

Sanjeev Kumar was born as Haribhai Jariwala in Gujarat to a Gujarati family. His first home was in Surat and family based in Mumbai. A stint in the film school took him to Bollywood, where he eventually became a movie star. He remained a bachelor all his life and died of a massive heart attack in 1985.^[1] He has two younger brothers and a sister.

Career[link]

Sanjeev Kumar made his debut in the film Hum Hindustani in 1960. Sanjeev's first film as a hero was the 1965 Nishan. In 1968, he played opposite the famous actor Dilip Kumar in Sangharsh. In 1970, Khilona made him a star. He went on to star in the hits Seeta Aur Geeta (1972) and Manchali (1973). He started working with the well-known director Gulzar in the early 1970s. He did nine films with Gulzar, including Aandhi (1975), Mausam (1975), Angoor (1981) and Namkeen (1982). Many of his fans believe that these are some of the best films that he did.

He was always ready to take unconventional roles that challenged him as an actor. He played Mirza, a chess-obsessed Lucknowi (citizen of Lucknow), in Satyajit Ray's classic Shatranj Ke Khiladi (1977). Perhaps his best-remembered roles were in the blockbuster films Sholay (1975) and Trishul (1978). In Naya Din Nayi Raat (1974) Sanjeev Kumar reprised the nine-role epic performance by Sivaji Ganesan in Navarathiri (1964), which was also previously reprised by Akkineni Nageswara Rao in Navarathri (Telugu; 1966). This film has enhanced his status and reputation as a serious actor in Hindi cinema.

During the early 1980s, Sanjeev Kumar did more supporting roles than playing the lead. In 1980, he starred in a Punjabi movie Fauji Chacha. .

Personal Life[link]

Sanjeev Kumar never married but was involved with actress Sulakshana Pandit, whom he did not marry, having been turned down by Hema Malini, with whom he was in love at the time. Hema Malini went on to marry her frequent co-star Dharmendra.^[2]

Death[link]

In 1985 at the age of 47 Sanjeev Kumar had a massive heart attack, resulting in his death.^[3] Ironically for an actor who played many elderly roles, he did not live to the age of 50.

Ten of his already completed films were released after his death, with his final film Professor Ki Padosan being released in 1993. At the time of his death only three-fourths of this film was complete, and it was decided to alter the story in the second half of the film to explain the absence of Sanjeev Kumar's character

Awards[link]

National Film Awards[link]

• National Film Award for Best Actor – Won
  1971 Dastak – Hamid
  1973 Koshish – Haricharan
  

Filmfare Awards[link]

Sanjeev Kumar was nominated for 14 Filmfare Awards. ^[4] Thrice as Best Supporting Actor and rest as Best Actor. He won the awards twice as Best Actor and once as Best Supporting Actor, as shown below.

• Filmfare Award for Best Actor – Won
  1976 Aandhi – J.K.
  1977 Arjun Pandit – Arjun Pandit
  

• Filmfare Award for Best Supporting Actor – Won
  1969 Shikar – Inspector Rai
  

• Filmfare Award for Best Actor – Nominated
  1971 Khilona – Vijaykamal S. Singh
  1974 Koshish – Hari Charan Mathur
  1976 Sholay – Thakur Baldev Singh
  1977 Mausam – Dr. Amarnath Gill
  1978 Yehi Hai Zindagi – Anand Narayan
  1978 Zindagi – Raghu Shukla
  1979 Devata – Tony/Tarun Kumar Gupta
  1979 Pati Patni Aur Woh – Ranjeet Chhadha
  1983 Angoor – Ashok R. Tilak
  

• Filmfare Award for Best Supporting Actor – Nominated
  1979 Trishul – Raj Kumar 'R.K.' Gupta
  1983 Vidhaata – Abu Baba
  

Other Awards[link]

• 1974 - BFJA Best Actor for Koshish^[5][6]

Filmography[link]

Actor[link]

References[link]