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Chad
Chad (, Tshād), officially known as the Republic of Chad, is a landlocked country in central Africa. It is bordered by Libya to the north, Sudan to the east, the Central African Republic to the south, Cameroon and Nigeria to the southwest, and Niger to the west. Due to its distance from the sea and its largely desert climate, the country is sometimes referred to as the "Dead Heart of Africa".
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Greenland
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Greenland ( meaning "Land of the Kalaallit people"; ) is an autonomous country within the Kingdom of Denmark, located between the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans, east of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. Physiographically, it is a part of the continent of North America. The largest island in Greenland is also named Greenland, and makes up most of the country's land area.
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Himalaya
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Mexico
Mexico, (pronounced ; ), officially known as the United Mexican States (), is a federal constitutional republic in North America. It is bordered on the north by the United States; on the south and west by the Pacific Ocean; on the southeast by Guatemala, Belize, and the Caribbean Sea; and on the east by the Gulf of Mexico. Covering almost 2 million square kilometres (over 760,000 sq mi), Mexico is the fifth-largest country in the Americas by total area and the 14th largest independent nation in the world. With an estimated population of 111 million, it is the 11th most populous country and the most populous Hispanophone country on Earth. Mexico is a federation comprising thirty-one states and a Federal District, the capital city.
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Tibesti
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- Chad
- Dent d'Hérens
- East Africa
- Edouard_Wyss-Dunant
- Eiger
- Engelhörner
- Geneva
- Greenland
- Himalaya
- Khumbu Icefall
- Matterhorn
- medicine
- Mexico
- Mont Blanc
- Mönch
- radiology
- South Col
- Swiss-German
- Tibesti
- Vaud
- Zurich
Edouard Wyss-Dunant
Biography
| Coordinates | 6°7′55″N1°13′22″N |
|---|---|
| Name | Edouard Wyss-Dunant |
| Death date | April 30, 1983 |
| Birth date | 1897 |
| Death date | 1983|04|30 |
| Residence | Geneva |
| Citizenship | Swiss |
| Fields | Medicine |
Edouard Wyss-Dunant had a distinguished career in medicine, both in his own country and abroad. He published a number of treatises in his professional capacity and was the author of several mountaineering books. His name will, however, always be associated primarily with his leadership of the Swiss Expedition to Everest in spring 1952.
Edouard Wyss-Dunant, had a Swiss-German father and a Vaudoise mother. He spent his childhood in Alsace, where his father managed a chemical works. He went on to study medicine in Geneva. After receiving a doctorate in radiology in Zurich he set himself up as a practitioner in radiology in Bern and became a member of the Berner Akademische Alpen-Klub. Later, he moved into a practice in Geneva, where he met his future wife Lucrece, and there he made his home, with the exception of a period spent in North Africa, for the rest of his life.
During his stay in Bern, Edouard Wyss-Dunant climbed all the main summits in the Bernese Oberland: among the classic routes in his record at that time were the Mittellegi Ridge of the Eiger, the North Ridge of the Mönch and many good ascents in the Engelhörner. In his early twenties he traversed the Dent d'Herens from the Tiefenmatten-Joch to the Col du Lion and made a double traverse, in two days, of both the Matterhorn and the Dent d'Hérens. He also achieved a solo traverse of the Matterhorn and climbed it by its formidable Furggen-Grat with Alexander Taugwalder. He climbed extensively in the Mont Blanc massif with Marcel Kurz.
Edouard Wyss-Dunant also participated in several expeditions further afield: in Mexico (1936), East Africa (1937), Greenland (1938), Tibesti (Chad) (1946) and in the Himalaya (1947 and 1952). The accounts of these exploits are recorded in his books: "Appels des Sommets", "Au dela des Cîmes", "Sur les Hauts Plateaux Mexicains", "Mes Ascensions en Afrique", "Mirages Groenlandais" and "Forets et Cîmes Himalayennes".
The climax of his career as an alpinist was his selection, by the Schweizerische Stiftung fur Alpine Forschungen, as leader of the Geneva-based Swiss Expedition to Everest in spring 1952.
Edouard Wyss-Dunant also rendered service as president of the Swiss Alpine Club and the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme. It was in tribute to these services and to his life-long record as a climber that he was made an honorary member of the Alpine Club in 1963.
Spring 1952 expedition to the Everest
Edouard Wyss-Dunant, was appointed leader of this expedition. All the expedition’s participants were from Geneva, they almost all belonged to the exclusive «L'Androsace» climbing club and knew each other very well. The city and Canton of Geneva provided moral and financial support for the expedition, and the University of Geneva provided the scientific contingent.The task that this team had set itself in relation to mountaineering comprised primarily of the exploration of the access to the South Col, the conquest of the labyrinthine Khumbu Icefall and possibly the advance to the South Col. No attempt at an ascent of Everest was ever under consideration in this case.
Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norkay climbed to within 300m of the summit along the South-East ridge.
The results of this first Swiss Everest expedition are remarkable, and exceeded even the most optimistic expectations. At the first attempt, they had opened up a new route to Everest, and had reached an extraordinary height on the south-western ridge in difficult conditions. In the opinion of the extremely critical Marcel Kurz, this expedition could almost be compared to a victory. It paved the way for further successes by other expeditions.
Scientific research
Among his research works, Edouard Wyss-Dunant coined the term "Death Zone" in his 1952 book, "The Mountain World".
References
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