Bouvetøya (English: Bouvet Island), is an uninhabited subantarctic volcanic island and dependency of Norway located in the South Atlantic Ocean. Lying at the southern end of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, it is the most remote island in the world. The island has an area of 49 square kilometers (19 sq mi), of which 93 percent is covered by a glacier. The center of the island is an ice-filled crater of an inactive volcano. Along the coast lie some skerries and one island, Larsøya. Nyrøysa, created by a rock slide in the late 1950s, is the only easy place to land and features a weather station.
The island was first spotted on 1 January 1739 by and has since been named for Jean-Baptiste Charles Bouvet de Lozier. He recorded inaccurate coordinates and the island was not sighted again until James Lindsay named it Lindsay Island in 1808. The first claim of landing, although disputed, was by Benjamin Morrell. The island was claimed for the British Crown by George Norris in 1825, who named it Liverpool Island. He also spotted a nearby phantom island, Thompson Island. The First Norvegia Expedition landed on the island in 1927 and claimed it for Norway. After a dispute with the UK, it was declared a Norwegian dependency in 1930. It became a nature reserve in 1971.
Southeast coast of Bouvet Island in 1898
The island was discovered on 1 January 1739 by Jean-Baptiste Charles Bouvet de Lozier, commander of the French ships Aigle and Marie.[1] This was the first time land had been spotted south of the 50th parallel south. Bouvet, who was searching for a presumed large southern continent, spotted the island through the fog and named the cape he saw Cap de la Circoncision. He was not able to land and did not circumnavigate his discovery, thus not clarifying if it was an island or part of a continent.[2] but his plotting of its position was inaccurate[3] forcing several expeditions to fail to find the island again.[4] James Cook's second voyage set off from Cape Verde on 22 November 1772 to find Cape Circoncision, but was unable to find the cape.[5]
The next expedition to spot the land was the 1808 spotting by James Lindsay, captain of the Samuel Enderby & Sons' (SE&S) whaler Snow Swan.[6] They reached the island and recorded its position, though they were unable to land.[7][8] Lindsay could confirm that the "cape" was indeed an island.[2] The next expedition to arrive at the island was American Benjamin Morrell and his vessel seal hunting ship Wasp. Morrell, by his own account, found the island without difficulty—with "improbable ease", in the words of historian William Mills—[7]before landing and hunting 196 seals.[2] In his subsequent lengthy description, Morrell does not mention the island's most obvious physical feature, its permanent ice cover.[9] This has caused some commentators to doubt whether he actually visited the island.[7][10]
On 10 December 1825, SE&S's George Norris, master of the Sprightly, landed on the island,[2] named it Liverpool Island and claimed it for the British Crown and George IV on 16 December.[11] The next expedition to spot the island was Joseph Fuller and his ship Francis Allyn in 1893, but he was not able to land on the island. German Carl Chun's Valdivia expedition arrived at the island in 1898. They were not able to land, but dredged the seabed for geological samples.[12] They were also the first to accurately fix the island's position.[11]
Norris also spotted a second island, which he named Thompson Island, which he placed 72 kilometers (45 mi) north-north-east of Liverpool Island, estimated to be about. Thompson Island was also reported by Fuller, but Chun did not report seeing the island, nor has anyone since.[12] However, the island continued to appear on maps as late as 1943.[13] A 1967 paper suggested that the island might have disappeared in a undetected volcanic eruption, but by 1997 it was discovered that the ocean is more than 2,400 meters (7,900 ft) deep in the area.[14]
The annexation of the island on 1 December 1927
In 1927, the first Norwegian Norvegia expedition—led by Harald Horntvedt and financed by Lars Christensen—was the first to make an extended stay on the island. Observations and surveying were conducted on the islands and oceanographic measurements performed in the sea around. At Ny Sandefjord, a small hut was erected, and on 1 December the Norwegian Flag was hoisted and the island claimed for Norway. The annexation was established by a royal decree on 23 January 1928.[11] The claim was initially protested by the United Kingdom, on the basis of Norris' landing and annexation. However, the British position was weakened by Norris' sighting of two islands and the uncertainty as to whether he had been on Thompson or Liverpool (i.e. Bouvet) Island. Norris' positioning deviating from the correct location combined with the island's lack of a natural harbor and small size made the UK accept the Norwegian claim.[15] This resulted in diplomatic negotiations between the two counties, and in November 1929, Britain renounced its claim to the island.[11]
The Second Norvegia Expedition arrived in 1928 with the intent of establishing a manned meteorological radio station, but a suitable location could not be found.[11] By then both the flagpole and hut from the previous year had been washed away. The Third Norvegia Expedition, led by Hjalmar Riiser-Larsen, arrived the following year and built a new hut at Kapp Circoncision and on Larsøya. The expedition carried out aerial photography of the island and was the first Antarctic expedition to use aircraft.[16] The Dependency Act, passed by the Parliament of Norway on 27 February 1930, established Bouvet Island as a dependency, along with Peter I Island and Queen Maud Land.[17] The eared seal was protected on and around the island in 1929 and in 1935 all seals around the island were protected.[18]
In 1955, the South African frigate Transvaal visited the island.[19] Nyrøysa, a rock-strewn ice-free area, the largest such on Bouvet, was created sometime between 1955 and 1958, probably by a landslide.[20] A scientific landing in 1978 measured the underground temperature at 25 °C (77 °F).[21] The island was visited by the British naval ship HMS Protector in 1964. In addition to scientific surveys,[12] a life raft was found at Nyrøysa, although no people were found.[21] The entire island and its territorial waters were protected as a nature reserve on 17 December 1971.[22]
Since the 1970s, the island has been frequently visited by Norwegian Antarctic expeditions. In 1977, an automated weather station was constructed, and for two months in 1978 and 1979 a manned weather station was operated.[16] The Vela Incident incident took place on 22 September 1979 in the sea between Bouvetøya and Prince Edward Islands when the American Vela Hotel satellite registered an unexplained double flash, variously interpreted as a nuclear test, meteor, or instrumentation glitch.[21][23][24][25]
In March 1985, a Norwegian expedition experienced sufficient clear weather that the entire island could be photographed from the air, resulting in the first accurate map of the whole island.[26] In the late 1980s, consideration was given to locating the Norwegian International Ship Register to Bouvetøya, Jan Mayen or Svalbard, but the flag of convenience registry was ultimately established in Bergen in 1987.[27] Several DX-peditions have been conducted to the island.[28][29] The Norwegian Polar Institute established a 36 square meters (390 sq ft) research station made up of containers at Nyrøysa in 1996. On 2006, the island was hit by an earthquake at 5.5 on Richter's scale, weakening the station's foundation and causing it to be blown to sea in a winter storm.[30] The 2004 film Alien vs. Predator is set on Bouvetøya.[31] The island was in 2007 added to Norway's tentative list of nominations as a World Heritage Site as part of an transnational nomination of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.[32]
Krill fishing in the Southern Ocean is subject to the Convention for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources, which defines maximum catch quotas for a sustainable exploitation of Antarctic krill.[33] Surveys conducted in 2000 showed high concentration of krill around Bouvetøya. In 2004, Aker BioMarine was awarded a concession to fish krill, and additional quotas were awarded from 2008 for a total catch of 620,000 tonnes (610,000 long tons; 680,000 short tons).[34] There is a controversy as to whether the fisheries are sustainable, particularly in relation to krill being important food for whales.[35] In 2009, Norway filed with the Commission on the Limits of the Continental Shelf to extend the outer limited of the continental shelf past 200 nautical miles (370 km; 230 mi) surrounding the island.[36]
Glacier on Bouvet Island's west coast
Bouvetøya is a volcanic island constituting the top of a volcano located as the southern end of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge in the South Atlantic Ocean. The islands measures 9.5 by 7 kilometers (5.9 by 4.3 mi) and covers an area of 49 square kilometers (19 sq mi),[18] including a number of small rocks and skerries and one sizable island, Larsøya.[37] It is located in the Subantarctic, south of the Antarctic Convergence,[38] which by some definitions would place the island in the Southern Ocean.[39] Bouvet Island is the most remote island in the world.[40] The closest land is Queen Maud Land of Antarctica, which is 1,700 kilometers (1,100 mi) to the south,[4] and Gough Island, 1,600 kilometers (990 mi) to the north.[41] The closest inhabited location is Cape Agulhas, South Africa, 2,200 kilometers (1,400 mi) to the northeast.[18]
Nyrøysa is a 2-by-0.5-kilometer (1.2 by 0.3 mi) terrace located north-west on the island. Created by a rock slide sometime between 1955 and 1957, it is the easiest access point to the island.[26] It is the site of the weather station.[42] The north-west corner is the peninsula of Kapp Circoncision.[43] From there to Kapp Valdivia, the coast is known as Morgenstiernekysten.[44] Store-Kari is an islet located 1.2 kilometers (0.7 mi) east of the cape.[45] From Kapp Valdivia to Kapp Lollo, on the west end of the island, the coast is known as Victoria Terasse.[46] From there to the south-eastern corner the coast is known as Mowinckelkysten. Svartstranda is a section of black sand which runs 1.8 kilometers (1.1 mi) along the section.[47] After rounding Kapp Fie, the coast along the south side is known as Vogtkysten.[48] The western-most part of it is the 300 meters (980 ft) long shore of Sjøelefantstranda.[49] Off Catoodden, on the south-western corner, lies Larsøya, the only island of any size off Bouvetøya.[37] The western coast is known as Esmarchkysten. Midway to Nyrøysa lies Norvegiaodden[50] and 0.5 kilometers (0.31 mi) off it the skerries of Bennskjæra.[51]
The island is covered 93 percent by glaciers, giving the island a domed shape.[26] The summit region of the island is Wilhelmplatået, slightly to the west of the island's center.[12] The plateau is 3.5 kilometers (2.2 mi) across[52] and surrounded by several peaks.[12] The tallest is Olavtoppen, 780 meters (2,560 ft) above mean sea level (AMSL),[26] followed by Lykketoppen (766 meters / 2,513 feet AMSL)[53] and Mosbytoppen (670 meters / 2,200 feet AMSL).[54] Below Wilhelmplatået lays the main caldera responsible for creating the island.[12] The last eruption took place 2000 BC, producing a lava flow at Kapp Meteor.[52] The volcano is presumed to be in a declining state.[12] The temperatures 30 centimeters (12 in) below the surface has been measured to 25 °C (77 °F).[26]
The island's coastline is 29.6 kilometers (18.4 mi).[55] Landing on the island is very difficult, as the island normally experiences high seas and features a steep coast.[26] During the winter, the island is surrounded in pack ice.[18] The Bouvet Triple Junction is located 275 kilometers (171 mi) west of Bouvet Island. It is a triple junction between the South American Plate, the African Plate and the Antarctic Plate, and of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the Southwest Indian Ridge and the American–Antarctic Ridge.[56]
The island is located south of the Antarctic Convergence, giving a marine Antarctic climate dominated by heavy clouds and fog surround the island most of the time. The island experiences a mean temperature of −1 °C (30 °F),[26] with January average at 1 °C (34 °F) and September average of −3 °C (27 °F).[41] The monthly high mean temperatures fluctuate little through the year.[57] The peak 14 °C (57 °F) being recorded in March 1980, caused by intense sun radiation. Spot temperatures of 20 °C (68 °F) have been recorded in sunny weather on rock faces.[26] The island predominantly experiences a weak west wind.[41]
| Climate data for Bouvet Island |
| Month |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Year |
| Average high °C (°F) |
3
(37) |
4
(39) |
3
(37) |
2
(36) |
1
(34) |
0
(32) |
−1
(30) |
−1
(30) |
−1
(30) |
0
(32) |
1
(34) |
3
(37) |
1.2
(34.1) |
| Average low °C (°F) |
0
(32) |
0
(32) |
0
(32) |
0
(32) |
−2
(28) |
−4
(25) |
−5
(23) |
−5
(23) |
−5
(23) |
−3
(27) |
−2
(28) |
−1
(30) |
−2.3
(28.0) |
| Source: [57] |
The harsh climate and ice-bound terrain limits vegetation to non-vascular plants, specifically Ascomycota fungi, lichen, moss and liverwort. The flora is representative for the maritime Antarctic and is phytogeographically similar to the South Sandwich Islands and the South Shetland Islands. Vegetation is limited because of the ice cover, although there is recorded snow algae. The remaining vegetation is located in snow-free areas such as nunatak ridges and other parts of the summit plateau, the coastal cliffs, capes and beaches. At Nyrøysa, five species of moss, five lichens, one Ascomycota fungus and twenty algae have been recorded. Most snow-free areas are so steep and frequented by avalanches that only crustose lichen and algal formations sustain. There are three endemic Ascomycotgi and three endemic lichen.[42]
The island has been designated as a Important Bird Area by BirdLife International because of its importance as a breeding ground for seabirds. In 1978–79 there were an estimated 117,000 breeding penguins on the island, consisting of Macaroni Penguin and to a less extent Chinstrap Penguin and Adélie Penguin , although this was only estimated to 62,000 in 1989–90. Nyrøysa is the most important colony for penguins, supplemented by Posadowskybreen, Kapp Circoncision, Norvegiaodden and across from Larsøya. Southern Fulmar is by far the most common non-penguin bird with 100,000 individuals. Other breeding seabirds consist of Cape Petrel, Antarctic Prion, Wilson's Storm Petrel, Black-bellied Storm Petrel , Subantarctic Skua , Southern Giant Petrel , Snow Petrel, Slender-billed Prion and Antarctic Tern . Kelp Gull is though to have breeded on the island earlier. Non-breeding birds which can be found on the island include the King Penguin, Wandering Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Campbell Albatross, Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross, Sooty Albatross, Light-mantled Albatross, Northern Giant Petrel, Antarctic Petrel, Blue Petrel, Soft-plumaged Petrel, Short-billed Minivet, White-headed Petrel, Fairy Prion, White-chinned Petrel, Great Shearwater, Common Diving Petrel, South Polar Skua and Parasitic Jaeger.[42]
The only non-bird vertabrates on the island are seals, specifically the Southern Elephant Seal and Antarctic Fur Seal, which both breed on the island. In 1998–99 there were 88 Elephant Seal pups and 13,000 Fur Seal pups at Nyrøysa. Humpback whale and killer whale are seen in the surrounding waters.[42]
Bouvetøya is one of three dependencies of Norway.[58] Unlike Peter I Island and Queen Maud Land, which are subject to the Antarctic Treaty System,[59] Bouvetøya is not disputed.[55] The dependency status entails that the islands is not part of the Kingdom of Norway, but is still under Norwegian sovereignty. Specifically, this implies that the island can be ceded without violating the first article of the Constitution of Norway.[58] Norwegian administration of the island is handled by the Polar Affairs Department of the Ministry of Justice and the Police, located in Oslo.[60]
The annexation of the island is regulated by the Dependency Act of 24 March 1933. It establishes that Norwegian criminal law, private law and procedural law applies to the island, in addition to other laws that explicitly state they are valid on the island. It further establishes that all land belongs to the state, and prohibits the storage and detonation of nuclear products.[17] Bouvet Island has been designated with the ISO 3166-2 code SJ[61] and was subsequently awarded the country code top-level domain .bv on 21 August 1997.[62] The domain is managed by Norid but is not in use.[63] The exclusive economic zone surrounding the island covers an area of 441,163 square kilometers (170,334 sq mi).[64] Norwegian law places the island in the UTC+01 time zone.[65]
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Coordinates: 54°26′S 3°24′E / 54.433°S 3.4°E / -54.433; 3.4
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