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Christian Dior S.A.

Type	Société Anonyme
Traded as	Euronext: CDI
Industry	Apparels, accessories
Founded	16 December 1946
Founder(s)	Christian Dior
Headquarters	Paris, France
Number of locations	210 (as of September 2010)
Area served	Worldwide high-end shopping districts
Key people	Bernard Arnault (Chairman), Sidney Toledano (CEO), Raf Simons (creative director), Kris Van Assche (creative director for Dior Homme), Victoire de Castellane (designer, Dior Fine Jewelry)
Products	High fashion retail
Revenue	€21.12 billion (2010)[1]
Operating income	€4.172 billion (2010)[1]
Profit	€1.261 billion (2010)[1]
Total assets	€41.20 billion (end 2010)[1]
Total equity	€19.57 billion (end 2010)[1]
Employees	76,000 (FTE, average 2010)[1]
Divisions	Christian Dior Parfums (Est. 1947) Christian Dior Cosmetics (Est. 1969) Dior Homme (Est.1970)
Subsidiaries	Christian Dior Couture (Est. 1995),[2] Financière Jean Goujon (42.36% controlling stake in LVMH)
Website	dior.com

Christian Dior S.A. (French pronunciation: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔːʁ]) (more commonly known as Dior) is a French company which owns the high-fashion apparels and accessories producer and retailer Christian Dior Couture, as well as holding 42% of LVMH Moët Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury goods firm.^[3][4] Both Dior and LVMH are controlled and chaired by businessman Bernard Arnault. The Dior label is the namesake of designer Christian Dior who launched the haute couture empire in 1946. Christian Dior Couture, a division of the whole House of Dior, designs and produces some of the world's most coveted haute couture, as well as luxury ready-to-wear fashion, menswear and accessories. Today, Dior operates about 160 boutiques worldwide with plans to open more in the coming years.

Competitors to the House of Dior include, among many, the fashion houses of Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Versace, MaxMara and Prada.^[5]

History[link]

Founding[link]

The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946, in "a private house"^[2] at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris B. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year.^[2] Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac.^[2][5] The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac.^[5] Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees.^[5] The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a "majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Monsieur Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Monsieur Dior's creativity also negotiated him a pleasant salary.^[5]

The "New Look"[link]

On 12 February 1947, Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring-Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six mannequins." was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne.^[2] Originally, the two lines were named as "cts and doge" and "Huit" (which included the new "Bar suit" silhouette).^[2] However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the "New Look" after the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar Carmel Snow's exclamation, "It's such a New Look!"^[2][5] The signature shape was characterized by a below-mid-calf length, full-skirt, large bust (which had fallen from style in 1912), and small waist. In refutation to the post-war fabric restriction, Dior used twenty yards of extravagant fabrics in his creations.^[5] Over time however, the New Look became revolutionary and strongly popular, influencing fashion and other designers for many years to come. Prominent Hollywood figures and the European upper-class became instant clients. Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after WWII, regained its esteemed position due in part to the attention it gained from Dior's New Look. The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime, and embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK.^[6]

Dior Parfums[link]

Available references contradict themselves on the topic of when Christian Dior Parfums was established. All claims fall within the years of 1947 and 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior.^[2] Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior (Christian Dior's sister).^[2] Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche.^[2] Pierre Cardin was made head of Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue.^[2] The modern Dior corporation also notes that "a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the first of its kind," in 1948.^[2] In 1949, the "Diorama" perfume is released and^[2] by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million.^[5]

Expansion and death of Dior[link]

Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris's fashion exports and 5% of France's total export revenue.^[5]

In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of "Christian Dior" visibly on a variety of luxury goods.^[5] It was placed first on neckties^[2] and soon was placed on hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves.^[5] Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue "for decades to come",^[5] which all couture houses followed.^[2]

Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich's dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright. In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier (I am a Couturier) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company's strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time.^[5] Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952.^[2] An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models.^[2] Los Gobelinos in Santiago, Chile, made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture.^[2] The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953.^[5] As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting.^[5] This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire^[5] The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street. In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough, a Dior fashion show was held at the Blemhein Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957.^[5] However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look.^[5] Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier in 1955.^[2] The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955.^[2] 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company's 10th anniversary in 1956.^[5] Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut.

Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack in 1957.^[2][5] The captivating impact of Dior's creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history's greatest fashion figures.^[5] Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that "by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury."^[5]

Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s[link]

The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos and General Manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent to Artistic Director the same year.^[5] Laurent had joined the House's family in 1955 after being picked out by the original designer himself for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant.^[2][5] Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (The mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958.^[5] The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior’s in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 Beat Look inspired by the existentialists in the Saint-Germain des Près cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 bohemian look was harshly criticized, and even more in Women's Wear Daily.^[5] Marcel Boussac was furious, and, in the spring, when Saint Laurent was called up to join the French army—which forced him to leave the House of Dior—the Dior management raised no objection. Saint-Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections.^[2]

Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label "at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes," and Women's Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he "rescued the firm."^[5] Bohan's designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress Elizabeth Taylor ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan's Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the "Slim Look". The Dior perfume "Diorling" was released in 1963 and the men's fragrance "Eau Sauvage" was released in 1966.^[2] Bohan's assistant Philippe Guibourgé launches the first French ready-to-wear collection "Miss Dior" in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, "Baby Dior" opens its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line is released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior is taken by Frédéric Castet.^[2] This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to Moët-Hennessy (which would itself become LVMH) due to Boussac's ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior).^[2][5] This however had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line.

Following this, Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti and the "Diorella" perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan.^[2] The first Dior watch "Black Moon" was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graces the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco, Princess Alexandria of Yugoslavia, and Lady Pamela Hicks (Lord Mountbatten of Burma's younger daughter) for the wedding of HRH The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer. In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court.^[2] The perfume "Dioressence" was released in 1979.^[2]

Under the business leadership of Arnault[link]

A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan, from the Spring 1983 collection

In 1980, Dior released the men's fragrance "Jules".^[2] After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981, Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased it for "one symbolic franc" in December 1984.^[2][5] The Dior perfume "Poison" was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became Chairman, Chief Executive Officer, and Managing Director of the company.^[2] On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company's mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business.^[5] On the 40th anniversary of Dior's first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior.^[2] In 1988, Arnault's Christian Dior S.A.'s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton through its subsidiary Jacques Rober, creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989.^[5] The first such non-Frenchman, Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as "refined, sober and strict."^[5] Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women’s Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women’s Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d’Or in 1989.^[2] That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%.^[2]

Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%.^[2] Another collection of watches named "Bagheera" – inspired by the round design of the "Black Moon" watches – was also released in 1990. Having fired the company's managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post.^[5] In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange's monthly settlement market, and the perfume "Dune" was launched.^[2] Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500.^[5] 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3 million, with a net income of $22 million.^[5] Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women's ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children's wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company's control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted "for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility."^[5] Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Cannes, and Waikiki, adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and Geneva. This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations."^[5] In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the "Miss Dior" perfume was relaunched.^[2] Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name.^[5]

The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995.^[2] Also, the "La Parisienne" watch model was released – embodied in the watch "Parisian Chic". By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9 million.^[5] Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue,CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Gianfranco Ferré in 1997 (Galliano on CBS News: "without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior").^[2][7] This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have "ruffled some French feathers". Arnault himself stated that he "would have preferred a Frenchman", but that "talent has no nationality".^[5] He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that "Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style."^[5] Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as "Homeless Show" (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or "S&M Show".^[5] Meanwhile Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano.^[5] On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened –it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino – in a celebrity-studded event including Nicole Kidman, Demi Moore and Jacques Chirac. That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan's Kanebo.^[2]

Dior Omotesando, 2007

In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne.^[2] The perfume "J'adore" was released in 1999,^[2] and on 5 October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the new Saddle bag. In the same year, Dior's long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH group. In 2000, Galliano's leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two girls simulating intercourse.

While other brands in the late 1990s, notably Gucci,^[8] had resorted to porn chic as a mean to draw attention, Dior ads had such an impact that porn chic became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of porno chic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro's zoophilic ads,^[9] shot by Mario Sorrenti, and Gucci's ads, which featured a girl with pubic hair shaped like the gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano has revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns then through his designs^[10][11]

On 17 July 2000, Dior Homme lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by Hedi Slimane. Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive "Malice", which features bracelets made of "CD" links, as well as the "Riva". Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche.

21st century[link]

Dior boutique in The Crystals (Las Vegas)

In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new "contemporary masculine concept" instilled by its designer Mr. Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection.^[2] Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger.^[5] On 3 June 2002, Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane was presented with the "International Designer of the Year" award by the CFDA.

Dior opened the first Dior Homme boutique in Milan on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation.^[5] A second flagship boutique from Christian Dior was opened in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo in 2004.^[2] An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened in 2004 in Paris on Rue Royale, presenting the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme.^[2] Bernard Arnault, his wife, Chloë Sevigny, and Sidney Toledano witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesando district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent.^[2]

The men's fragrance "Higher" was released in 2001, followed by the perfume "Addict" in 2002. The "Miss Dior Chérie" perfume and the "Dior Homme" fragrance were released in 2005.^[2]

Galliano began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the "Chris 47 Aluminum" line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the "Malice" and "Riva" watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the "Malice Sparkling" and "Riva Sparkling" spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the "Dior 66" watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design. The "Chris 47 Steel" watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original "Chris 47 Aluminum". The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named "Le D de Dior" (French: "The D of Dior"). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called "Chiffre Rouge." This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: "Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme’s artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces." Fine Jewelry designer de Castellane launched her second line of watches called "La Baby de Dior". The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a "jewelry look." Christian Dior S.A. celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its "Chiffre Rouge" collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland. In 2005, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior.^[2] An exhibition, "Christian Dior: Man of the Century," was held in the Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy. Also in 2005, Galliano released his "Dior Christal" watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a "creative and innovative collection."

In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework. This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III chairs used in his fashion shows. Dior Homme received a new Artistic Director in 2007, Kris Van Assche, who presented its first collection later that year.^[2] The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well.^[2] Currently, Dior is featured in countless high-fashion magazines, more prominently Vogue, and advertises its popular Christian Dior Cosmetics and Parfums via prominent fashionistas and models.

Criticism[link]

Christian Dior, together with others in the fashion industry and the culture of the industry as a whole, was criticized by fashion model Inga Radziejewski for promoting anorexia nervosa and unrealistic body image in women, by designing clothes so small that the anorexic model could not fit into them even when she was dangerously underweight.^[12]

Galliano's collection inspired by homeless people also drew a lot of criticism, but also attention, to the house of Dior.^[13]

Galliano controversy[link]

On 23 February 2011, scandal arose when John Galliano was accused of making anti-semitic comments after drinking in Paris. Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying "I love Hitler" and "People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead" to a Jewish woman.^[14] He was then accused of allegedly assaulting a gallery curator that same night and verbally insulting her and her boyfriend. Actress Natalie Portman, who was recently made the new face of Miss Dior Cherie perfume, commented on the matter to express her disgust, stating that she will in no way be associated with him. However, another model for Dior, French actress Eva Green, downplayed the seriousness of the incident, stating: "Sometimes, you can make mistakes. I don't think he's anti-semitic. I'm Jewish. I don't think he has anything against the Jews. I think it's more that he was probably a bit drunk."^[15] On 25 February, Dior announced Galliano's suspension pending an investigation, citing that the company has a "zero-tolerance" policy toward anti-semitism.^[16] In France, it is against the law to make anti-semitic remarks of this nature, and can be punishable by up to six months in prison.^[14]

On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy.^[17]

On 9 April 2012, Christian Dior announced that Raf Simons, previously the creative director for Jil Sander, would take the place as the Creative Director for Dior.

Ownership and shareholdings[link]

At the end of 2010, the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S.A. was Groupe Arnault SAS, the family holding company of Bernard Arnault. The group's control amounted to 69.96% of Dior's stock and 82.86% of its voting rights.^[1] The remaining shares are considered free float.^[1]

Christian Dior S.A. held 42.36% of the shares of LVMH and 59.01% of its voting rights at the end of 2010. Arnault held an additional 5.28% of shares and 4.65% of votes directly.^[3]

Locations[link]

The brand operates a total of 210 locations as of September 2010. Of these, 109 are in Asia, one in Africa (in Casablanca), one the Caribbean (San Juan, Puerto Rico), 45 in Europe, 8 in the Middle East, 48 in North America (Canada, Mexico, and USA), 6 in Oceania, and 2 in South America (including a store in Brazil, in the city of São Paulo).

References[link]

Further reading[link]

	Companies portal
	Fashion portal
	Paris portal

• Jackson, Lesley. The New Look – Design in the Fifties. London: Thames & Hudson, 1991. ISBN 0-500-27644-7

External links[link]

• Official website
• Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections
• Yahoo! – Christian Dior SA Company Profile
• Dior haute couture 60th anniversary runway show review
• "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php. 

The Christian Dior Home and Museum in Granville (Manche), France.

Christian Dior (French pronunciation: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔːʁ]) (21 January 1905 – 23 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, also called Christian Dior.

Early life[link]

Christian Dior was born in Granville, a seaside town on the coast of Normandy, France, the second of the five children of Maurice Dior, a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer (the family firm was Dior Frères), and his wife, the former Isabelle Cardamone. He had four siblings: Raymond (father of Françoise Dior), Jacqueline, Bernard, and Ginette (aka Catherine).^[1] When Christian was about five years old, the family moved to Paris, France, but still returned to the Normandy coast for summer vacations.

Dior's family had hopes he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic and wished to be involved in fashion. To make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he and a friend sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso. Three years later, after the death of Dior's mother and brother and a financial disaster in the family’s fertilizer business, during the Great Depression, that resulted in his father losing control of Dior Frères, the gallery had to be closed. From then until about 1940 he worked with fashion designer Robert Piguet, when he was called up for military service.

In 1942, when Dior left the Army, Dior joined the fashion house of Lucien Lelong, where he and Pierre Balmain were the primary designers. For the duration of World War II, Dior, as an employee of Lelong — who labored to preserve the French fashion industry during wartime for economic and artistic reasons — designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators, as did other fashion houses that remained in business during the war, including Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Nina Ricci.^[2][3] While Dior dressed Nazi wives, his sister Catherine (1917—2008) served as a member of the French Resistance, was captured by the Gestapo, and sent to the Ravensbrück concentration camp, where she was incarcerated until she was liberated in May 1945.^[4]

The Dior fashion house[link]

On 16 December 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric magnate. The actual name of the line of his first collection, presented in early 1947, was Corolle (literally the botanical term corolla or circlet of flower petals in English), but the phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar. Dior's designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the rations on fabric.^[5] He was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes; Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form.

Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. There was also some backlash to Dior's designs due to the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit. During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended. The "New Look" (a name given it by American fashion-magazine editor Carmel Snow) revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War II.

Death[link]

Dior died while on holiday in Montecatini, Italy on 23 October 1957. Some reports say that he died of a heart attack after choking on a fish bone.^[6] Time's obituary stated that he died of a heart attack after playing a game of cards.^[7] However, the Paris socialite and Dior acquaintance Alexis von Rosenberg, Baron de Rédé, stated in his memoirs that contemporary rumor had it that the fashion designer succumbed to a heart attack after a strenuous sexual encounter. Some even think that he died because of a seizure. To this day, the exact circumstances remain undisclosed.

Dior was a bachelor.

Tributes[link]

The Paul Gallico novella Mrs 'Arris Goes to Paris (1958, UK title Flowers for Mrs Harris) tells the story of a London charwoman who falls in love with her employer's couture wardrobe and decides to go to Paris to purchase herself a Dior ballgown.

A perfume named Christian Dior is used in Haruki Murakami's novel The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle as an influential symbol placed at critical plot points throughout.

The English singer-songwriter Morrissey released a song titled "Christian Dior" as a b-side to his 2006 single "In the Future When All's Well".

American Rapper/Producer Kanye West released a song titled "Christian Dior Denim Flow" as a 2010 Fashion Week single.

References[link]

External links[link]

• Christian Dior official website
• Christian Dior designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
• A biography of Christian Dior
• Sewing patterns by Christian Dior
• "'Bar' Suit and Hat". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighBarSuit.php. Retrieved 11 November 2007. 
• "Zémire evening ensemble". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighZemire.php. Retrieved 13 November 2007. 
• Photos of Dior and Samples of New Look Fashion
• "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php. 
• [1] Documentary film Christian Dior, The Man Behind The Myth
• Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections

Guy Ritchie
Ritchie, in January 2012.
Born	Guy Stuart Ritchie (1968-09-10) 10 September 1968 (age 43) Hatfield, Hertfordshire, England
Occupation	Film maker, screenwriter, pub landlord, businessman
Years active	1995–present
Spouse	Madonna (m. 2000–2008) «start: (2000-12-22)–end+1: (2008-11-22)»"Marriage: Madonna to Guy Ritchie" Location: (linkback:http://en-wiki.pop.wn.com/index.php/Guy_Ritchie) (divorced)

Guy Stuart Ritchie (born 10 September 1968) is an English screenwriter and film maker best known for directing Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels, Snatch, Revolver, RocknRolla and Sherlock Holmes and its sequel.

Early life[link]

Ritchie was born in Hatfield, Hertfordshire,^[1] the second of two children born to Amber (née Parkinson) and Captain John Vivian Ritchie (b. 1928), former Seaforth Highlanders serviceman and advertising executive. John Vivian's father was Major Stewart Ritchie, who died in France, in 1940, during World War Two. John Ritchie's mother was Doris Margaretta McLaughlin (b. 1896), daughter of Vivian Guy McLaughlin (b. 1865) and Edith Martineau (b. 1866). Most of Ritchie's family on the McLaughlin and Martineau lines were appointed Reverends, Barons or Knighted at some point. The peerage started with the Very Rev. Hubert McLaughlin (b. 1805), father of famous nurse Louisa McLaughlin, and ancestor of Patrick McLaughlin, who was the first in his direct family to be given the according title, as he was born into a blue collar family and worked hard to find nobility. Ritchie's mother, Amber, would later go on to marry a baronet herself.^[2][3] His father's second marriage was to Shireen Ritchie, Baroness Ritchie of Brompton, a former model and later Conservative politician and life peer. ^[4]

Ritchie, who is dyslexic, was expelled from Stanbridge Earls School, one of the most prominent institutions specialising in dyslexia in the UK, at the age of 15.^[1] He has stated that drug use was the reason for the expulsion; his father has said that it was because his son was caught "cutting class and entertaining a girl in his room."^[5] He also attended Sibford School.

In addition to his elder sister, Tabitha, a dance instructor, Ritchie has a half-brother, Kevin Bayton, who was born to Amber Parkinson when she was a teenager and given up for adoption.^[6][7] From 1973 until 1980, when they divorced,^[5][8] Ritchie's mother was married to Sir Michael Leighton, 11th baronet. As a divorcée, she is correctly styled as Amber, Lady Leighton.

Directing career[link]

Ritchie directed a 20-minute short film in 1995 entitled The Hard Case. In 1998, Ritchie and his dad contacted their friend Peter Morton, of the Hard Rock Cafe chain, wondering if he had any potential investors for a debut film, Morton knew his nephew Matthew Vaughn had been studying film production in Los Angeles. Peter informed Vaughn of Ritchie's new film idea, and Vaughn knew he could help out with his own found production ideas he had gained from his travels to America. Matthew, John, Guy and Peter all contacted their mutual acquaintance, Trudie Styler, who they knew had enough acting money to invest in the production of Ritchie's second film. Styler informed them that she had previously seen The Hard Case, and decided that co-funding the project would be a worthwhile opportunity. After about eight months, the production of the film, Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels was completed, and it was released in 1998 to a national audience, then later went global after its positive reviews. Richie was introduced to Madonna when the soundtrack for the film was issued on her Maverick Records label. The film, whose main actor was Jason Flemyng, also introduced actors Jason Statham (The Transporter), Nick Moran and Dexter Fletcher to worldwide audiences, as well as introducing former footballer Vinnie Jones to a new career as a film star. In 2000 Ritchie won an Edgar Award from the Mystery Writers of America for Best Motion Picture Screenplay. Ritchie created and produced a spin-off television series called Lock, Stock....^[9]

His second feature film was Snatch, released in the year 2000. Originally known as Diamonds, it was another caper comedy, this time backed by a major studio. The cast featured such Hollywood big names as Brad Pitt, Benicio del Toro and Dennis Farina, along with the returning Vinnie Jones and Statham. Similar to Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels in featuring a complex and inventive storyline in which the characters weave in and out of each others' lives, the film also plays with time, depicting events from various perspectives. It currently has a rating of 72% on Rotten Tomatoes.

Ritchie accompanied Madonna to the debuts of her film The Next Best Thing and album Music. Following his marriage to Madonna, Ritchie began focusing his filmmaking on his famous wife, directing her in both a music video (for the song "What It Feels Like for a Girl", a controversial video that showed Madonna engaging in violent behaviour, ostensibly directed at men, including T-boning a car with three men in it, tasering and robbing a man at an ATM, scratching a police car and shooting two officers with a water gun, driving her car through a group of men playing street hockey and incinerating a man by throwing a lighter into a pool of gasoline) and a short film, Star, for the BMW films series. Ritchie's next film, also featuring Madonna, was a remake of the 1974 Lina Wertmüller hit Swept Away (also entitled Swept Away). Ritchie cast Madonna as a rich, rude, socialite who, after a shipwreck, is trapped on a deserted island with a slovenly Communist sailor who humiliates her. Ritchie renamed the woman Amber Leighton after his mother. This film was both a critical and commercial disappointment. He later accompanied Madonna to the debuts of her films Die Another Day, I'm Going To Tell You A Secret, Arthur and the Invisibles, and I Am Because We Are, as well as her West End play debut in Up for Grabs. Madonna supported her husband by attending the debuts of Ritchie's films Snatch, Revolver, and RocknRolla.

Ritchie, in September 2008.

Ritchie's next project was a Vegas-themed heist film entitled Revolver, which was critically panned in the US and UK.^[10][11]

Ritchie was involved^{[clarification needed]} with a hidden camera show called Swag, for Channel Five in the UK, which turned the table on criminals and opportunists by using stunts to trap them in the act.

Ritchie has also written and directed RocknRolla starring Chris "Ludacris" Bridges, Gerard Butler, Tom Hardy, Jeremy Piven, Thandie Newton, and Tom Wilkinson. It scores 60% on Rotten Tomatoes and was generally received well.^[12] Ritchie intends to develop the film into a trilogy, with the next entry being "The Real RocknRolla," as is stated at the end of "RocknRolla." Ritchie will also direct a film based on a comic book series he created with Virgin Comics entitled Guy Ritchie's Gamekeeper. The film rights were acquired by Warner Brothers in July 2007. The film's being produced by Silver Pictures.^[13]

In 2008, Ritchie directed a commercial for Nike called "Take It To The Next Level", about a young Dutch footballer who signs for Arsenal, showing the progression of his career from his viewpoint, until he makes his debut for the Netherlands. The commercial features cameo appearances from some football players with music by Eagles of Death Metal.^[14]

Ritchie's movie Sherlock Holmes, starring Robert Downey, Jr. and Jude Law, received its theatrical release on 25 December 2009. The film was given generally positive reviews^[15] and grossed more than $520 million worldwide,^[16] becoming Ritchie's most successful film financially.^[17] The sequel, Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows, was released on 16 December 2011.^[18]

In June 2012 it was announced that Ritchie would direct an adaptation of Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson. ^[19]

Personal life[link]

Ritchie and wife Madonna in 2005

On 18 May 2000, Ritchie was arrested by the police after he assaulted a 20-year-old man outside the Kensington home he shared with Madonna, causing actual bodily harm.^[20]

On 22 December 2000, Guy married the American pop singer and actress Madonna at Skibo Castle in Scotland. They have a son, Rocco, born 11 August 2000 in Los Angeles, and adopted a Malawian baby boy named David. On 15 October 2008, British media reported that a split was "imminent" between Ritchie and Madonna.^[21] The split was confirmed by their spokesperson^[22] and Ritchie and Madonna went public with the split because they "can’t bear to live with the pretense any longer".^[23]

On 15 December 2008, it was announced by Madonna's spokeswoman that the singer had agreed to a divorce settlement with Ritchie, the terms of which grant him between £50million and £60million, a figure that includes the value of the couple's London pub and residence and Wiltshire estate in England.^[24]

Madonna and Guy Ritchie's marriage was dissolved by District Judge Reid by decree nisi at the clinical Principal Registry of the Family Division in High Holborn, London. Madonna and Ritchie entered into a compromise agreement for Rocco and David, then aged eight and three respectively, and divided the children's time between Ritchie’s London home and Madonna’s in New York, where the two will be joined by her daughter, Lourdes, from a previous relationship.^[25][26]

During his marriage to Madonna, Ritchie followed Kabbalah and was a regular attendee of services at the Kabbalah Centre in Los Angeles, which his former wife co-founded. He also adhered to the Kabbalah tradition of circumcision, undergoing the procedure at Madonna's request.^[27] Although Ritchie is no longer affiliated with Kabbalah, his children are still raised according to its teachings.

Ritchie was the inspiration for, and is the subject of, singer Robbie Williams' single She's Madonna from his 2006 album Rudebox.

Ritchie started training in Shotokan karate at the age of seven at the Budokwai in London, where he later achieved a black belt in judo.^[28] He also has a brown belt in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu.^[29] Ritchie is a fan of the English football team Manchester United.^[30]

In February 2011 a £6m house he owns in London's Fitzrovia was occupied briefly by members of The Really Free School, a squatter organization.^[31][32]

His girlfriend, Jacqui Ainsley, gave birth to their first child, a boy, in September 2011. ^[33]

Filmography[link]

Full length[link]