A foundling of great charm

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An 18th century VOC signal cannon on the Perdeberg's southern summit is part of the Vondeling story.

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• Wine farm on the road to nowhere

Cape Town - Why a foundling? No one seems to know, but perhaps someone will unearth a record one day that explains why this early 18th century farm was dubbed “a deserted infant of unknown parents”, to quote the OED’s bleak definition.

Whatever the past, Vondeling is a farm benefiting from loving attention, hard work and financial investment. All easy to understand, given its unique situation on the Perdeberg, its vinous potential, and attributes such as a wealth of fynbos and heart-stopping views.

Look east, as no doubt Oloff Bergh and Johann Pfeiffer did back in 1704, when granted this 120-morgen farm, and an immense panorama unfolds to an etched outline of peaks at the skyline. Today, these are known as the Limietberg and the Groenberg to the north, the Paarl mountains in the centre and Simonsberg to the south.

Along the road to Vondeling, travellers pass cattle and vines, chicken farms and piggeries, a deeply rural scene with little traffic. Yet Vondeling is just 20km from Wellington and Paarl, and a little further from Malmesbury.

Julian Johnsen heard that Vondeling was for sale while looking to farm in the Cape in the 1990s. To help finance the deal he sparked the interest of two former school pals in the UK, who are now partners. Neighbouring Klein Vondeling was added soon after and, in 2010, the trio bought David Frost’s farm St Clement, increasing their investment to 680 hectares and incorporating the former Voor Paardeberg tasting centre.

Diversity of cultivars characterises 40ha of vineyards. Mature and recent plantings include sauvignon blanc, shiraz, and cabernet, along with petit verdot, carignan, malbec, merlot, mourvedre, chardonnay and viognier. While examining a block of old chenin blanc, Johnsen came across a tangle of bush in the centre, which, when cleared, revealed a pair of graves. The older of them was that of Johannes Paulus Eksteen, who died in 1860, according to the headstone. When Julian phoned the Eksteens on Uitkyk farm to tell them of his find, his normally chatty neighbour went quiet. “That’s my full name,” he eventually stuttered, “and we have been looking for that grave for a very long time.”

Director Julian Johnsen will welcome guests to a magnificent tasting centre.

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While the characterful old cellar on Vondeling is used for barrel maturation, the winemaking operation has now moved to the large cellar on the former Frost farm. Outside builders are putting finishing touches to the revamped tasting centre and terrace, which offer magnificent views of the farm and beyond.

Wine-lovers are spoilt for choice when contemplating the Vondeling range. Begin, I suggest, with the pair of Signal Cannon wines, selling at R35. The chenin blanc is a delightful introduction to affordable quality, fruit balanced by freshness and discernible backbone, while the rosé is the perfect picnic companion.

Cellarmaster Matthew Copeland, who has been at the helm for five years, combines careful crafting with enthusiastic talent to produce well-balanced wines, some of which reach stellar heights. The sauvignon blanc 2012 (R55) melds verdancy with minerality, while the lightly wooded 2009 chardonnay (R79) is a delightful mix of restraint with gentle citrus, vanilla and cream on the palate.

Two white blends should not be missed: Petit Blanc 2012 blends chenin, viognier and chardonnay into an unexpectedly delicate summer sipper backed by the region’s minerality, while Babiana 2009 (R105) is a brilliant expression of the Perdeberg, grenache blanc, chardonnay and viognier adding complexity to the chenin.

There’s a Petit Rouge 2011 (R42.50), a juicy and enjoyable mix of merlot and cab, while the Baldrick Shiraz 2011 (R60) makes more of a classic statement, and the flagship 2009 Erica Shiraz (R120) presents a particularly harmonious relationship between fruit and tannin.

There’s more to excite interest in the form of an 18th century signal cannon on the Perdeberg summit, amid a wealth of fynbos after which two of the wines are named. Visitors will be able to book for guided seasonal tours soon. Cameras recently installed have captured leopard and smaller cats on film, part of praiseworthy conservation projects on the go.

The foundling is nearly ready to show off her considerable charms. Next month the Vondeling centre will open for tastings and functions. For details, e-mail admin@vondelingwines.co.za

Wine Diary

Attend a master class and taste some of the best wine in the Helderberg at no cost. The annual Haskell Vineyards Open Day takes place on November 3 from 10am. Acclaimed winemaker Rianie Strydom will give two master classes with the focus on single-vineyard wines. Gourmet treats will be on sale, and the Long Table restaurant will serve breakfast and lunch.

E-mail werner@dombeya.co.za to book for the class or call 021 881 3746 to book meals.

* De Oude Drostdy, one of Tulbagh’s historic treasures, will host a festive market on Saturday, November 10. Handmade products, crafts and home-baked goodies will be on sale and Drostdy-Hof wines will be poured. The market opens at 10am and entry is free. - Weekend Argus

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