,
Madame X (Madame Pierre Gautreau),
1884, oil on canvas, 234.95 x 109.86 cm, Manhattan:
Metropolitan Museum of Art.]]
Madame X or
Portrait of Madame X is the informal title of a
portrait painting by
John Singer Sargent of a young socialite named
Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau, wife of
Pierre Gautreau. The model was an American
expatriate who married a French banker, and became notorious in Parisian high society for her beauty and rumored infidelities. She wore lavender powder and prided herself on her appearance.
Madame X was painted not as a commission, but at the request of Sargent. It is a study in opposition. Sargent shows a woman posing ostentatiously in a black satin dress with jeweled straps, a dress that reveals and hides at the same time. The portrait is characterized by the pale flesh tone of the subject contrasted against a dark colored dress and background.
For Sargent, the scandal resulting from the painting's controversial reception at the Paris Salon of 1884 amounted to the failure of a strategy to build a long-term career as a portrait painter in France.
Background
Renowned for her beauty, Gautreau represented the
parisienne, a new type of Frenchwoman recognized for her sophistication. The English term 'professional beauty', referring to a woman who uses personal skills to advance to elite status, was also used to describe her. Her unconventional beauty made her an object of fascination for artists; the American painter
Edward Simmons claimed that he "could not stop stalking her as one does a deer." Sargent was also impressed, and anticipated that a portrait of Gautreau would garner much attention at the upcoming Paris Salon, and increase interest in portrait commissions. He wrote to a friend:
" I have a great desire to paint her portrait and have reason to think she would allow it and is waiting for someone to propose this homage to her beauty. If you are 'bien avec elle' and will see her in Paris, you might tell her I am a man of prodigious talent."
Although she had refused numerous similar requests from artists, Gautreau accepted Sargent's offer in February 1883. Sargent was an expatriate like Gautreau, and their collaboration has been interpreted as motivated by a shared desire to attain high status in French society.
Studies
Little progress was made during the winter of 1883, as Gautreau was distracted by social engagements, and was not by nature inclined to the discipline of sitting for a portrait. At her suggestion Sargent traveled to her estate in
Brittany in June, where he commenced a series of preparatory works in pencil, watercolors, and oils. About thirty drawings resulted from these sessions, in which many poses were attempted. Like the eventual portrait, an oil sketch entitled
Madame Gautreau Drinking a Toast (
Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum), shows the subject's profile and bare arms against a dark background, but is of a more freely brushed and informal character.
In the country no less than in Paris Gautreau was bored by the process of sitting; here, too, there were social engagements, as well as the responsibilities of tending to her four-year-old daughter, her mother, house guests, and a full domestic staff. Sargent complained of "the unpaintable beauty and hopeless laziness of Madame Gautreau."
Execution
As in his previous entries to the Salon,
The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit and
El Jaleo, Sargent chose a canvas of dimensions large enough to ensure notice on the crowded Salon walls. The pose proved to be different from any of those tried in the preliminary works. It necessitated that Gautreau stand with her body facing the artist while her head was turned away, her right arm extended behind her for support, her hand on a low table; the result was to create tension in the neck and arm as well as to emphasize the subject's elegant contours. For painting the artificial tone of Gautreau's pale skin Sargent used a palette composed of lead white, rose madder, vermilion, viridian, and bone black. On September 7, Sargent wrote "still at
Paramé, basking in the sunshine of my beautiful model's countenance."
Description
There is an assertion and showiness in the expanse of white skin — from her high forehead down her graceful neck, shoulders, and arms. Although the black of her dress is bold, it is also deep, recessive, and mysterious. She is surrounded by a rich brown which is at once luminous and dark enough to provide contrast to the skin tones. Most disconcerting is the whiteness of the skin, an overt contrivance of "aristocratic pallor"; by contrast her red ear is a jarring reminder of the color of flesh unadorned. The painting features several subtle classical references:
sirens of Greek mythology adorn the table's legs, and the crescent tiara worn by Gautreau symbolizes the goddess
Diana. The latter was not contrived by the artist, but was part of Gautreau's self-display. When the painting first appeared at the
Paris Salon under the title
Portrait de Mme *** in 1884, people were shocked and scandalized; the attempt to preserve the subject's anonymity was unsuccessful, and the sitter's mother requested that Sargent withdraw the painting from the exhibition. Sargent refused, saying he had painted her "exactly as she was dressed, that nothing could be said of the canvas worse than had been said in print of her appearance". Later, Sargent overpainted the shoulder strap to raise it up and make it look more securely fastened. He also changed the title, from the original
Portrait de Mme ***, to
Madame X — a name more assertive, dramatic and mysterious, and, by accenting the impersonal, giving the illusion of the
woman archetype.
The poor public and critical reception was a disappointment to both artist and model. Gautreau was humiliated by the affair, and Sargent would soon leave Paris and move to London permanently.
Aftermath
Sargent hung
Madame X first in his Paris studio, and later in his studio in London. From 1905 he displayed it in a number of international exhibitions. In 1916 Sargent sold the painting to the
Metropolitan Museum of Art, writing to its director "I suppose it is the best thing I have ever done." A second, unfinished version of the same pose, in which the position of the right shoulder strap remained unresolved, is in the
Tate Gallery.
Seven years after Sargent painted Madame Gautreau, Gustave Courtois painted her. As in the earlier painting, the portrait shows her face in profile. She wears the same style of dress, with Courtois's portrait showing a bit more skin. The strap of her dress hangs off her shoulder much as it had in Sargent's portrait. This time, however, the portrait was well received by the public. In 1897 Gautreau posed yet again for a standing portrait, for what would be her favorite version, by Antonio de la Gandara.
External links
Madame X Analysis & Critical Reception
Madame X at The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Madame X image and essay about the painting.
Essay: Sargent's 'Madame X'; or, Assertion and Retreat in Woman.
Gustave Courtois' Madame Gauthereau.
Notes
Category:1884 paintings
Category:John Singer Sargent
Category:Paintings of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Category:19th-century portraits