Wells Cathedral
Cathedral Church of St. Andrew
The west front, completed c. 1250, has about 300 medieval statues; many of the figures, and their niches, were originally painted and gilded
Wells Cathedral Shown within Somerset
51°12′37″N 2°38′37″W / 51.2104°N 2.6437°W / 51.2104; -2.6437Coordinates: 51°12′37″N 2°38′37″W / 51.2104°N 2.6437°W / 51.2104; -2.6437
Location	Wells, Somerset
Country	England
Denomination	Church of England
Website	wellscathedral.org.uk
Architecture
Style	Gothic (Early English)
Years built	1176–1490
Specifications
Length	116.7 m (383 ft)
Nave length	49.1 m (161 ft)
Choir length	31.4 m (103 ft)
Nave width	11.5 m (38 ft) 24.9 m (82 ft) including aisles
Width across transepts	41.1 m (135 ft)
Nave height	20.4 m (67 ft)
Choir height	20.4 m (67 ft)
Number of towers	3
Tower height	48.7 m (160 ft) (crossing)
Administration
Diocese	Bath and Wells (since c.909)
Province	Canterbury
Clergy
Bishop(s)	Peter Price
Dean	John Clarke
Laity
Organist(s)	Matthew Owens

Wells Cathedral is a Church of England cathedral in Wells, Somerset, England. It is the seat of the Bishop of Bath and Wells, who lives at the adjacent Bishop's Palace.

Built between 1175 and 1490, Wells Cathedral has been described as “the most poetic of the English Cathedrals”.^[1] Much of the structure is in the Early English style and is greatly enriched by the deeply sculptural nature of the mouldings and the vitality of the carved capitals in a foliate style known as “stiff leaf”. The eastern end has retained much original glass, which is rare in England. The exterior has a splendid Early English façade and a large central tower.^[1][2][3]

The first church was established on the site in 705. Construction of the present building began in the 10th century and was largely complete at the time of its dedication in 1239. It has undergone several expansions and renovations since then and has been designated by English Heritage as a grade I listed building,^[4] and Scheduled Ancient Monument.^[5]

Peter Price is the current Bishop of Bath and Wells having been appointed in 2001; and John Clarke took over as Dean in September 2004 after previously being principal of Ripon Theological College at Cuddesdon, Oxford.

History[link]

Early years[link]

There is archaeological evidence of a late Roman mausoleum on the site,^[6] which was identified during excavations in 1980.^[5]

The first church was established in Wells in 705 by King Ine of Wessex, at the urging of Aldhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, in whose diocese it lay.^[7] It was dedicated to Saint Andrew. The only remains of this first church are some excavated foundations which can be seen in the cloisters. In 766 Cynewulf, King of Wessex, signed a charter granting endowed eleven hides of land.^[8] The baptismal font in the south transept is the oldest surviving part of the cathedral which is dated to c.700 AD.^[9]

Two centuries later, the seat of the diocese was shifted to Wells from Sherborne. The first Bishop of Wells was Athelm (circa 909), who crowned King Athelstan. Athelm and his nephew Saint Dunstan both became Archbishops of Canterbury.^[10] It was also around this time that Wells Cathedral School was founded.^[11]

Present structure[link]

Wells Cathedral Nave ceiling

Wells Cathedral Chapter House

The present structure was begun under the direction of Bishop Reginald de Bohun, who died in 1184.^[12] Wells Cathedral dates primarily from the late 12th century and early 13th century; the nave and transept are examples of the Early English style of architecture. It was largely complete at the time of its dedication in 1239.^[13]

The bishop responsible for the construction was Jocelyn of Wells, a brother of Bishop Hugh II of Lincoln,^[14] and one of the bishops at the signing of Magna Carta. Jocelyn's building campaigns also included the Bishop's Palace, a choristers' school, a grammar school, hospital for travellers and a chapel. He also built a manor at Wookey, near Wells.^[15] The master mason designer associated with Jocelyn was Elias of Dereham.^[16] Jocelyn lived to see the church dedicated, but despite much lobbying of Rome, died before cathedral status was granted in 1245. He died on 19 November 1242,^[17] at Wells and was buried in the choir of Wells Cathedral.^[14][15] He may have been the father of Nicholas of Wells. The memorial brass on his tomb is supposedly one of the earliest brasses in England.^[15] Masons continued with the enrichment of the West Front until about 1260.

King John was excommunicated between 1209 and 1213. During this time, work on the cathedral was suspended. In this period, building technology advanced so that bigger blocks of masonry could be moved and incorporated into the walls. The effect of this technological advance can be seen on the walls of the cathedral; at a particular point in the building's walls, the blocks of stone can be seen to increase in size.

The Chapter House steps – dating to 1306.

The inverted arch in Wells Cathedral, in 2006.

By the time the building was finished, including the Chapter House (1306),^[18] it already seemed too small for the developing liturgy, in particular the increasingly grand processions. A new spate of expansive building was therefore initiated with Bishop John Drokensford starting the proceedings by heightening of the central tower and beginning an eight-sided Lady chapel at the far east end, finished by 1326.^[19] Thomas of Whitney was the master mason.^[20]

Bishop Ralph of Shrewsbury followed, continuing the eastward extension of the quire, and the Retroquire beyond with its forest of pillars. He also built Vicars' Close and the Vicars' Hall, to give the men of the choir a secure place to live and dine, away from the town with all its temptations.^[21] He enjoyed an uneasy relationship with the citizens of Wells, partly because of his imposition of taxes,^[21] and felt the need to surround his palace with crenellated walls and a moat and drawbridge.

The appointment of William Wynford as master mason in 1365 marked another period of activity. He was one of the foremost architects of his time and, apart from Wells, was engaged in work for the king at Windsor and at New College, Oxford and Winchester Cathedral.^[22] Under Bishop John Harewell, who raised money for the project, he built the south-west tower of the West Front and designed the north west, which was completed later.^[23] Inside the building he filled in the early English lancet windows with delicate tracery.

In the 14th century, the central piers of the crossing were found to be sinking under the weight of the crossing tower, which had been damaged by an earthquake the previous century.^[24] "Scissor arches" (inverted strainer arches that are such a striking feature) were inserted to brace and stabilize the piers as a unit,^[25] by William Joy the master mason of the time.^[24]

Tudors and civil war[link]

By the reign of Henry VII the cathedral building was complete, with an appearance much as today. Following the dissolution of the monasteries in 1541 the income of the cathedral was reduced; as a result medieval brasses were sold off, and a pulpit was placed in the nave for the first time.^[26] Between 1551 and 1568, in two periods as Dean, William Turner established a Herbal garden, which has been recreated between 2003 and 2010.^[27]

North side of Wells Cathedral

Elizabeth I gave both the Chapter and the Vicars Choral a new charter in 1591 which created a new governing body, consisting of the dean and eight residentiary canons. This body had control over the estates of the church as well as complete authority over its affairs, but removed its right to elect its own dean.^[28]

The stability which the new charter brought came to an end with the onset of the civil war and the execution of Charles I. Local fighting led to damage to the fabric of the cathedral including stonework, furniture and windows. The dean at this time was Dr. Walter Raleigh, a nephew of the explorer Sir Walter Raleigh. He was imprisoned after the fall of Bridgwater to the Parliamentarians in 1645, brought back to Wells and confined in the deanery. His jailer was the local shoe maker and city constable, David Barrett, who caught him writing a letter to his wife. When he refused to surrender it, Mr Barrett ran him through with a sword, from which he died six weeks later,^[29] on 10 October 1646 and he was buried in the choir before the dean's stall. No inscription marks his grave.^[30]

During the Commonwealth of England under Oliver Cromwell no dean was appointed and the building fell into disrepair. The bishop was in retirement and some clergy were reduced to performing menial tasks.^[31]

1660–1800[link]

Aerial view of the Cathedral and Vicars' Close

In 1661 when Charles II was restored to the throne, Robert Creyghtone, who had served as the king's chaplain in exile, was appointed as the dean and later served as the bishop for two years before his death in 1672.^[32] His magnificent brass lectern, given in thanksgiving, can still be seen in the cathedral. He donated the great west window of the nave at a cost of £140.

Following Creyghtone's appointment as Bishop Ralph Bathurst, who had been president of Trinity College, Oxford,^[33] chaplain to the king, fellow of the Royal Society, took over as the dean. During his long tenure restoration of the fabric of the cathedral took place. During the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685, puritan soldiers damaged the West front, tore lead from the roof to make bullets, broke the windows, smashed the organ and the furnishings, and for a time stabled their horses in the nave.^[34] The work of restoration had to start all over again under Bishop Thomas Ken who was appointed in that year and served until 1691. He was one of seven bishops imprisoned for refusing to sign King James II's "Declaration of Indulgence", which would have enabled Catholics to resume positions of political power, but popular support led to his acquittal. He later refused to take the oath of allegiance to William and Mary because James II had not formally abdicated. Thomas Ken and others (known as the Non-Jurors; the older meaning of "juror" is "one who takes an oath", hence "perjurer" as "one who swears falsely") refused and were put out of office.^[35] He was forced to retire to Frome.

Bishop Kidder who succeeded him was killed during the Great Storm of 1703, when two chimney stacks in the palace fell on the bishop and his wife, asleep in bed.^[36][37] This same storm wrecked the Eddystone lighthouse and blew in part of the great west window in Wells.

Victorian era and restoration[link]

In the middle of the 19th century, a major restoration programme was needed. Under Dean Goodenough the monuments were removed to the cloisters and remaining medieval paint and whitewash was removed in an operation known as 'the great scrape'.^[38] Anthony Salvin, took charge of the extensive restoration of the quire. The wooden galleries were removed and new stalls with stone canopies were placed further back within the line of the arches. The stone screen was pushed outwards in the centre to support a new organ. Since then a rolling programme of improvement to the fabric has been continued.

The cloisters

The cathedral is used as a venue for a variety of musical events including an annual concert by the Somerset chamber choir.^[39]

The cathedral hosted the funeral of Harry Patch, the last British Army veteran of the First World War, who died in July 2009 at the age of 111.^[40]

Original records[link]

Three early registers of the dean and chapter of Wells – the Liber Albus I (White Book; R I), Liber Albus II (R III), and Liber Ruber (Red Book; R II, section i) – were edited by W. H. B. Bird for the Historical Manuscripts Commissioners and published in 1907. These three books comprise, with some repetition, a cartulary of possessions of the cathedral, with grants of land dating back as early as the 8th century, well before the development of hereditary surnames in England; acts of the dean and chapter; and surveys of their estates, mostly in Somerset.^[41]

Architecture[link]

Plan, showing the four massive piers of the crossing (centre), the octagonal chapter house (top) and the extended east end (right)

The interior of the cathedral is based on three aisles, with stress being placed on horizontal, rather than vertical lines. A unique feature in the crossing are the double pointed inverted arches, known as owl-eyed strainer arches.^[42] This unorthodox solution was found by the cathedral mason, William Joy in 1338,^[43] to stop the central tower from collapsing when another stage and spire were added to the tower which had been begun in the 13th century.^[44] The capitals in the south west arm of the transept include depictions such as a bald-headed man, a man with toothache, a thorn-extractor, and a moral tale: fruit thieves being caught and punished.

The west façade, is 100 feet (30 m) high and 150 feet (46 m) wide with niches for more than 500 medieval figure sculptures of which 300 survive. Between 1975 and 1986 the west front underwent a major cleaning and restoration programme, including Silane coating and Lime treatment for many of the statues.^[45]

The West front is composed of a yellow stone, inferior oolite, of the middle Jurassic period which came from the Doulting Stone Quarry about 8 miles (13 km) to the East.^[46]

Stained glass[link]

Stained glass at the eastern end

Wells Cathedral contains one of the most substantial collections of medieval stained glass in England.^[47]

Many of the windows were damaged by soldiers in 1642 and 1643.^[48] The oldest surviving are two windows on the west side of the Chapter House staircase date from 1280–90, and two windows in the south choir aisle which are from 1310–1320. The Lady Chapel range is from 1325–1330,^[4] and includes images of local saint Dunstan,^[47] however the east window underwent extensive repairs by Thomas Willement in 1845.^[4] The choir east window is a fine Jesse Tree, which includes significant silver stain, and is flanked by two windows each side in the clerestory, with large figures of saints, all of which are from 1340–1345.^[49] In 2010 a major conservation programme was undertaken on the Jesse window.^[50] The 1520 panels in the chapel of St Katherine are attributed to Arnold of Nijmegen^[4] and were acquired from the destroyed church of Saint-Jean, Rouen,^[47] the last panel was bought in 1953.^[4] The large triple lancet to the nave west end was glazed at the expense of Dean Creyghton at a cost of £140 in 1664 and repaired in 1813. The central light was largely replaced to a design by Archibald Keightley Nicholson between 1925–1931. The main north and south transept end windows are by Powell, and were erected in the early 20th century.^[4]

Fittings and monuments[link]

The font

The altar

"Grotesque" capital showing one man hitting another with a spade. Albumen print, ca. 1876–1895

The cathedral contains architectural features and fittings some dating back hundreds of years, and tombs and monuments to bishops and noblemen.

The brass lectern in the Lady Chapel is from 1661 and has a moulded stand and foliate crest. In the north transept chapel is a 17th century oak screen with columns, formerly part of cow stalls, with artisan Ionic capitals and cornice, which is set forward over chest tomb of John Godelee. There is a bound oak chest from the 14th century which would have been used to store the Chapter Seal and key documents. The Bishop's Throne dates from 1340, and has a panelled, canted front and stone doorway, and a deep nodding cusped ogee canopy over it, with 3 stepped statue niches and pinnacles. The throne was restored by Anthony Salvin around 1850. Opposite the throne is a 19th century pulpit, which is octagonal on a coved base with panelled sides, and steps up from the north aisle. The round font in the south transept is from the former Saxon cathedral, it has an arcade of round-headed arches, on a round plinth and a cover made in 1635 cover with heads of putti round sides. The Chapel of St Martin is a memorial to every Somerset man who fell in World War I.^[51]

The monuments and tombs include: Bishop Giso, died 1088: Bishop Bytton died 1274: Bishop William of March, died 1302: John Drokensford, died 1329: John Godelee, died 1333: John Middleton, died c1350: Ralph of Shrewsbury, died 1363: Bishop Harewell died 1386: William Bykonyll died c1448: John Bernard, died 1459: Bishop Bekynton, died 1464: John Gunthorpe, died 1498: John Still died 1607: Robert Creyghton died 1672: Bishop Kidder, died 1703: Bishop Hooper, died 1727 and Bishop Harvey died 1894.

Two carvings in the West Cloister, now near the gift shop and cafe, have been described as being Sheela na Gigs,^[52][53] however they are not typical and this classification has been challenged.^[54]

Clock[link]

The clock

The Wells clock, an astronomical clock, is located in the north transept. The surviving mechanism, dated to between 1386 and 1392, was replaced in the 19th century, and was eventually moved to the Science Museum in London, where it continues to operate. It is the second-oldest surviving clock in England.^[55]

The dial represents a pre-Copernican or geocentric view of the universe, with sun and moon revolving round a central fixed earth, like the astronomical clock at Ottery St Mary. The clock still has its original medieval face. As well as showing the time on a 24 hour dial, it reflects the motion of the sun and the moon, the phases of the moon, and the time since the last new moon.^[56]

When the clock strikes every quarter, jousting knights move around above the clock and the Quarter jack marks the quarter hours with his heels. The outside clock face, opposite Vicars' Hall, placed there just over seventy years after the interior clock, is driven by the inside mechanism. In 2010 the official clock-winder retired and was replaced by an electric mechanism.^[57]

Misericords[link]

The Cathedral has 64 misericords dating from 1330 to 1340, twelve of which were never completed. Although a few represent everyday scenes, such as two goats butting each other and a lamb sucking from a ewe, most have a mythological theme.^[58]

Library[link]

Wells Cathedral - elaborate metal work on door in Interpretation Centre (Undercroft)

The cathedral is also famous for its library, which was built in the mid-15th century. Located over the East Cloister, the library holds the Chapter's collection in two rooms, with volumes published before 1800 being held in the Old Library. The library's medieval collection was destroyed during the reformation. The cathedral's earliest records are held in the Muniment Room at the southern end of the Library.^[59] The volumes held reflect the Canons' wide-ranging intellectual interests. The collection's core subject is theology, but science, medicine, history, exploration and languages are also well-represented.^[59] The library is open to the public at appointed times during summer, with a small exhibition of documents and books.^[59]

Bells[link]

Wells Cathedral has ten bells, the heaviest ring of ten bells in the world,^[60] with a tenor bell (the 10th), known as Harewell, that weighs 56.25 long hundredweights (2,858 kg).^[61] They are hung for full circle ringing in the English style of Change ringing. These bells are now hung in the South West Tower although originally a small number of bells were hung in the lantern.

The oldest bells are the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 7th and 8th and were made in 1757 by Abel Rudhall. The 1st and 2nd date from 1891 and were made by Mears & Stainbank. The most recent bell, the 6th, was cast in 1964 also by Mears & Stainbank.

The 1st weighs 7 long cwt 3 qtr 12 lb (880 lb or 399 kg) while the 2nd weighs 9 long cwt 0 qtr 2 lb (1,010 lb or 458 kg). The 3rd weighs 10 long cwt (510 kg), the 4th 10.75 long cwt (546 kg) and the 5th 12.5 long cwt (640 kg). The 6th weighs 15 long cwt 1 qtr 14 lb (1,722 lb or 781 kg), the 7th 20 long cwt (1,000 kg) and the 8th 23 long cwt (1,200 kg). In 1877 bells 9 and 10 were cast by John Taylor & Co. The 9th weighs 32 long cwt (1,600 kg) and the 10th 56 long cwt 1 qtr 14 lb (6,314 lb or 2,864 kg).^[62]

Deans of Wells[link]

The Dean of Wells is the head of the Chapter of Wells Cathedral. The current Dean is the Very Revd John Clarke, who lives in The Dean's Lodging, 25 The Liberty, Wells.^[63]

Organ and organists[link]

The organ as seen from the crossing.

The first record of an organ dates from 1310, with a smaller organ, probably for the Lady Chapel, being installed in 1415. In 1620 a new organ, built by Thomas Dallam, was installed at a cost of £398 1s 5d, however this was destroyed by parliamentary soldiers in 1643 and another new organ was built in 1662,^[64] which was enlarged in 1786,^[65] and again in 1855.^[66] In 1909–1910 a new organ was built by Harrison & Harrison with the best parts of old organ retained,^[67] and this has been maintained by the same company since.^[68]

The first recorded organist of Wells Cathedral was Walter Bagele (or Vageler) in 1416,^[69] and the post of organist or assistant organist has been held by over 60 individual since then. Between 1996 and 2004 the appointed Organist and Master of the Choristers was Malcolm Archer, who was the Musical Director for the Wells Cathedral Oratorio Society at the same time.

The current organist is Matthew Owens who took up the post in 2005.^[70] Jonathan Vaughn was appointed as assistant organist in 2007, and the current organ scholars are Sachin Gunga and Owain Park.^[71]

Media[link]

In filming for the 2007 Doctor Who episode The Lazarus Experiment the cathedral interior stood in for that of Southwark Cathedral. Parts of the Academy Award-nominated 2007 film Elizabeth: The Golden Age were also filmed in the cathedral.^[72]

It was also used as inspiration for Ken Follett's novel Pillars of the Earth, and (with a heavily modified central tower) was used to represent the completed Kingsbridge Cathedral at the end of the 2010 television adaptation.^[73]

Wells Cathedral Sunset Nov, 2011

See also[link]

• Architecture of the medieval cathedrals of England
• William Robinson Clark Dean of Taunton and prebendary of Wells 1859–1880.
• Diocese of Bath and Wells
• English Gothic architecture
• List of Bishops of Bath and Wells and precursor offices
• List of cathedrals in the United Kingdom
• List of Church of England dioceses

References[link]

Bibliography[link]

• Adkins, Lesley; Roy Adkins (1992). A field guide to Somerset archeology. Wimborne: Dovecote Press. ISBN 0-946159-94-7. 
• Ayers, Tim (2004). The Medieval Stained Glass of Wells Cathedral. Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-726263-4. 
• Cave, C.J.P. (1948). Roof Bosses in Medieval Churches : An Aspect of Gothic Sculpture. Cambridge University. 
• Cockerell, Charles Robert (1851). Iconography of the West Front of Wells Cathedral. J. H. Parker. http://books.google.com/?id=RioEAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Iconography+of+the+West+Front+of+Wells+Cathedral. 
• Clifton-Taylor, Alec (1967). The Cathedrals of England. Thames and Hudson. ISBN 0-500-18070-9. 
• Colchester, L.S.; David Tudway Quilter & Alan Quilter (1985). A History of Wells Cathedral School. Wells Cathedral School. 
• Colchester, L.S. (1987). Wells Cathedral. Unwin Hyman. ISBN 978-0-04-440015-8. 
• Fryde, E.B. (1986). Handbook of British Chronology. Royal Hist.Soc. ISBN 978-0-86193-106-4. 
• Harvey, John (1987). English Mediaeval Architects. Sutton Publishing Ltd. ISBN 978-0-86299-452-5. 
• Hopkins, Clare (2005). Trinity: 450 Years of an Oxford College Community. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-951896-3. 
• Lee, Lawrence; George Seddon, Francis Stephens, (1976). Stained Glass. Spring Books. ISBN 0-600-56281-6. 
• Lee, Sidney (2001). Dictionary of National Biography. Adamant Media Corporation. ISBN 1-4021-7064-5. 
• Leete-Hodge, Lornie (1985). Curiosities of Somerset. Bodmin: Bossiney Books. ISBN 0-906456-98-3. 
• Lehmberg, Stanford E. (1996). Cathedrals Under Siege: Cathedrals in English Society, 1600–1700. Penn State Press. ISBN 0-271-01494-6. 
• Malone, Von Carolyn Marino (2004). Façade as Spectacle: Ritual and Ideology at Wells Cathedral. Brill Publishers. ISBN 90-04-13840-4. 
• Matthews, Melvyn (1 November 2005). "The meaning of Wells Cathedral". Wells Cathedral. Scala Publishers Ltd. ISBN 978-1-85759-370-9. 
• Powicke, Maurice (1961). Handbook of British Chronology. Royal Historical Society. ISBN 978-0-901050-17-5. 
• Reid, R.D. (1963). Wells Cathedral. Friends of Wells Cathedral. ISBN 0-902321-11-0. 
• Sale, Richard (2007). Somerset: A landmark visitors guide (3rd Ed). Ashbourne: Landmark Publishing. ISBN 978-1-84306-328-5. 
• Tatton-Brown, Tim; John Crook (2002). The English Cathedral. New Holland Publishers. ISBN 1-84330-120-2. 
• Thornsby, Frederick W. (1926). Dictionary Of Organs And Organists. H. Logan. 
• Wade, G.W.; Wade, J.H. (1926). Somerset. Methuen & Co;. 
• Warren, Derrick (2005). Curious Somerset. Stroud: Sutton Publishing. ISBN 978-0-7509-4057-3. 

External links[link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Wells Cathedral

• Official Website

Coordinates: 51°12′26″N 2°39′07″W / 51.2073°N 2.6519°W / 51.2073; -2.6519

Wells
Aerial photograph of Wells
Wells  Wells shown within Somerset
Population	10,406 [1]
OS grid reference	ST545455
District	Mendip
Shire county	Somerset
Region	South West
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	WELLS
Postcode district	BA5
Dialling code	01749
Police	Avon and Somerset
Fire	Devon and Somerset
Ambulance	South Western
EU Parliament	South West England
UK Parliament	Wells
List of places: UK • England • Somerset

Wells is a cathedral city and civil parish in the Mendip district of Somerset, England, on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills. Although the population recorded in the 2001 census is 10,406,^[1] it has had city status since 1205. It is the second smallest English city in terms of area and population after the City of London although, unlike the latter, Wells is not part of a larger metropolitan conurbation, and is consequently described in some sources as being England's smallest city.^[2][3]

The name Wells derives from the three wells dedicated to Saint Andrew, one in the market place and two within the grounds of the Bishop's Palace and cathedral.^[4] There was a small Roman settlement around the wells, but its importance grew under the Saxons when King Ine of Wessex founded a minster church in 704, around which the settlement grew. Wells became a trading centre and involved in cloth making before its involvement in both the English Civil War and the Monmouth Rebellion during the 17th century. In the 19th century, transport infrastructure improved with stations on three different railway lines.

The cathedral and the associated religious and architectural history have made Wells a tourist destination, which provides much of the employment. The city has a variety of sporting and cultural activities and houses several schools including The Blue School, a state coeducational comprehensive school originally founded in 1654 and the independent Wells Cathedral School, which was founded in 909 and is one of the five established musical schools for school-age children in Britain. The historic architecture of the city has also been used as a location for several films and television programmes.

History[link]

Vicars' Close facing the cathedral

The city was a Roman settlement but only became an important centre under the Saxons when King Ine of Wessex founded a minster church in 704.^[5] Two hundred years later, this became the seat of the local bishop; but in 1088, this had been removed to Bath.^[6] This caused severe arguments between the canons of Wells and the monks of Bath until the bishopric was renamed as the Diocese of Bath and Wells, to be elected by both religious houses. Wells became a borough some time before 1160 when Bishop Robert granted its first charter. Fairs were granted to the City before 1160.^[6]

Wells was listed in the Domesday Book of 1086 as Welle, from the Old English wiells,^[7] which was not listed as a town, but included four manors with a population of 132, which implies a population of 500–600.^[8] Earlier names for the settlement have been identified which include Fontanetum,^[9] in a charter of 725 granted by King Ina to Glastonbury and Fontanensis Ecclesia.^[9] Tidesput or Tithesput furlang relates to the area east of the bishops garden in 1245.^[10] An established market had been created in Wells by 1136, and it remained under episcopal control until its city charter from Elizabeth I in 1589.^[8]

During the English Civil War, Parliamentarian troops used the cathedral to stable their horses and damaged much of the ornate sculpture by using it for firing practice.^[11] William Penn stayed in Wells shortly before leaving for America, spending a night at The Crown Inn. Here he was briefly arrested for addressing a large crowd in the market place, but released on the intervention of the Bishop of Bath and Wells.^[12]

During the Monmouth Rebellion the rebel army attacked the cathedral in an outburst against the established church and damaged the west front. Lead from the roof was used to make bullets, windows were broken, the organ smashed and horses stabled in the nave.^[13] Wells was the final location of the Bloody Assizes on 23 September 1685. In a makeshift court lasting only one day, over 500 men were tried and the majority sentenced to death.^[14]

There was a port at Bleadney on the River Axe in the 8th century that enabled goods to be brought to within 3 miles (5 km) of Wells. In the Middle Ages overseas trade was carried out from the port of Rackley. In the 14th century a French ship sailed up the river and by 1388 Thomas Tanner from Wells used Rackley to export cloth and corn to Portugal, and received iron and salt in exchange.^[15] Wells had been a centre for cloth making, however in the 16th and 17th centuries this diminished, but the town retained its important market focus.^[16]

Wells has had three railway stations. The first station, Priory Road, opened in 1859 and was on the Somerset Central Railway (later the Somerset and Dorset Joint Railway) as the terminus of a short branch from Glastonbury.^[17] A second railway, the East Somerset, opened a branch line from Witham in 1862 and built a station to the east of Priory Road.^[17] In 1870, a third railway, the Cheddar Valley line branch of the Bristol and Exeter Railway from Yatton, reached Wells and built yet another station, later called Tucker Street.^[18] Matters were somewhat simplified when the Great Western Railway acquired both the Cheddar Valley and the East Somerset lines and built a link between the two that ran through the S&DJR's Priory Road station. In 1878, when through trains began running between Yatton and Witham, the East Somerset station closed, but through trains did not stop at Priory Road until 1934. Priory Road closed to passenger traffic in 1951 when the S&DJR branch line from Glastonbury was shut, though it remained the city's main goods depot. Tucker Street closed in 1963 under the Beeching Axe, which closed the Yatton to Witham line to passengers. Goods traffic to Wells ceased in 1964. A Pacific SR West Country, West Country Class steam locomotive no 34092 built by the British Railways Board was named City of Wells following a ceremony in the city's Priory Road station in 1949. It was used to draw the Golden Arrow service between London and the Continent. It was withdrawn from service in 1964, and rescued from a scrapyard in 1971. It is now undergoing a complete restoration on the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway in Yorkshire.^[19]

During World War II, Stoberry Park in Wells was the location of a Prisoner of War camp, housing Italian prisoners from the Western Desert Campaign, and later German prisoners after the Battle of Normandy. Penleigh Camp on the Wookey Hole Road was a German working camp.^[20]

City status was confirmed and formalised by Queen Elizabeth II by letters patent issued under the Great Seal dated 1 April 1974.^[21][22]

Governance[link]

The main street. The cathedral is seen.

Wells City Council has sixteen councillors, elected from three wards: Central, St.Thomas and St.Cuthbert.^[23] It was previously known as Wells Municipal Borough.^[24] The City Council has responsibility for local issues, including setting an annual precept (local rate) to cover the council's operating costs and producing annual accounts for public scrutiny. They also evaluate local planning applications and work with the local police, district council officers, and neighbourhood watch groups on matters of crime, security, and traffic. This includes City Centre management including CCTV, an alcohol ban and regulating street trading permissions including the two funfairs held in the Market Place in May and November each year and the Wells In Bloom competition.^[23]

The city council's role also includes initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of city facilities, as well as consulting with the district council on the maintenance, repair, and improvement of highways, drainage, footpaths, public transport, and street cleaning. They are involved in the management of the Community Sports Development Centre at the Blue School, the skateboard park and allotments in the grounds of the Bishop's Palace, Burcott Road and Barnes Close. Conservation matters (including trees and listed buildings) and environmental issues are also the responsibility of the council.^[23] The Wells city arms show an ash tree surrounded by three wells, with the Latin motto Hoc fonte derivata copia (the fullness that springs from this well).^[25]

Town Hall

The Town Hall was built in 1778, with the porch and arcade being added in 1861 and the balcony and round windows in 1932. It is a Grade II listed building.^[26] It replaced the former on the site of the Market and Assize Hall in the Market Place,^[27] and a Canonical House also known as 'The Exchequer', on the authority of an Act of Parliament dated 1779. The building also houses the magistrates courts and other offices. The Assize court last sat here in October 1970.^[26]

Wells elects five councillors to Mendip District Council from the same three wards as are used for the City Council.^[28] The Mendip District was formed on 1 April 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972. The district council is responsible for local planning and building control, local roads, council housing, environmental health, markets and fairs, refuse collection and recycling, cemeteries and crematoria, leisure services, parks, and tourism.

Wells has one councillor on the Somerset County Council,^[29] which is responsible for running the largest and most expensive local services such as education, social services, libraries, main roads, public transport, policing and fire services, trading standards, waste disposal and strategic planning. Wells is part of the UK Parliament constituency of Wells. The current Member of Parliament is Tessa Munt of the Liberal Democrats.^[30] Wells is within the South West England constituency of the European Parliament which elects six Members of the European Parliament using the d'Hondt method of party-list proportional representation.

Wells is twinned with Bad Dürkheim in Germany and Paray-le-Monial in the Burgundy region of France.^[31][32] HMS Somerset, Mary Bignal-Rand, The Rifles and Harry Patch have the Freedom of the City.^[33][34][35]

Geography[link]

Keward Brook

Wells lies at the foot of the southern escarpment of the Mendip Hills where they meet the Somerset Levels. The hills are largely made of carboniferous limestone, which is quarried at several nearby sites. In the 1960s, the tallest mast in the region, the Mendip UHF television transmitter, was installed on Pen Hill above Wells.^[36]

The water from the springs fills the moat around the Bishops Place and then flows into Keward Brook, which carries it for approximately a mile west to the point where the brook joins the River Sheppey in the village of Coxley.^[37]

Along with the rest of South West England, the Mendip Hills have a temperate climate which is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The annual mean temperature is about 10 °C (50 °F) with seasonal and diurnal variations, but due to the modifying effect of the sea, the range is less than in most other parts of the United Kingdom. January is the coldest month with mean minimum temperatures between 1 °C (34 °F) and 2 °C (36 °F). July and August are the warmest months in the region with mean daily maxima around 21 °C (70 °F). In general, December is the dullest month and June the sunniest. The south west of England enjoys a favoured location, particularly in summer, when the Azores High extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK.^[38]

Cloud often forms inland, especially near hills, and reduces exposure to sunshine. The average annual sunshine totals around 1600 hours. Rainfall tends to be associated with Atlantic depressions or with convection. In summer, convection caused by solar surface heating sometimes forms shower clouds and a large proportion of the annual precipitation falls from showers and thunderstorms at this time of year. Average rainfall is around 800–900 mm (31–35 in). About 8–15 days of snowfall is typical. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest. The predominant wind direction is from the south west.^[38]

Wells from atop the cathedral, looking West.

Demography[link]

The population of the civil parish, recorded in the 2001 census, is 10,406.^[1] Their average age is 44 years with 2,602 of the people being over the age of 65 years.^[39] 4,208 of the population are considered to be economically active.^[40] Within the 1,702 people living in the central ward 1,690 are white,^[41] and the predominant religion is Christian.^[42] Similar profiles are seen amongst the 4,577 people living in St Cuthberts Ward,^[43] and the 4,126 living in St Thomas's ward.^[44]

Economy[link]

Following construction of the A39/A371 bypass, the centre of town has returned to being a quiet market city. It has all the modern conveniences plus shops, hotels and restaurants.^[45] Wells is a popular tourist destination, due to its historical sites,^[46] its proximity to Bath, Stonehenge and Glastonbury and its closeness to the Somerset coast. Also nearby are Wookey Hole Caves, the Mendip Hills and the Somerset Levels. Somerset cheese, including Cheddar, is made locally. Wells is part of the Wells & Shepton Mallet Travel to Work Area which also includes Glastonbury, Cheddar and surrounding areas.^[47]

Transport[link]

Wells bus station

Wells is situated at the junction of three numbered routes. The A39 goes north-east to Bath and south-west to Glastonbury and Bridgwater. The A371 goes north-west to Cheddar and east to Shepton Mallet. The B3139 goes west to Highbridge and north-east to Radstock. Wells is served by FirstGroup bus services to Bristol, Bath, Frome, Shepton Mallet, Yeovil, Street, Bridgwater, Taunton, Burnham on Sea and Weston-super-Mare, as well as providing some local service. Some National Express coach services call at Wells. The bus station is in Princes Road. The Mendip Way and Monarch's Way long-distance footpaths pass through the city, as does National Cycle Route 3.^[48]

Education[link]

The Music School of Wells Cathedral School

The Blue School, founded in 1654,^[49][50] is a state coeducational comprehensive school and has been awarded Specialist science college status. It has 1,453 students aged 11–18 of both sexes and all ability levels.^[51]

Wells Cathedral School, founded in 909, is an independent school that has a Christian emphasis and is one of the five established musical schools for school-age children in Britain. The school teaches over 700 pupils between the ages of 3 and 18. The school's boarding houses line the northern parts of the city and the music school retains close links with Wells Cathedral.^[52] The primary schools in Wells are Stoberry Park School, St Cuthbert's Church of England Infants School, St Joseph and St Teresa Catholic Primary School, and Wells Central CofE Junior School.

Culture[link]

Wells and Mendip Museum includes many historical artefacts from the city and surrounding Mendip Hills.^[53] Wells is part of the West Country Carnival circuit.

The Wells Film centre shows current releases and, in conjunction with the Wells Film Society shows less well known and historical films.^[54] The previous cinema, The Regal in Priory Road, closed in 1993 and is now Kudos Nightclub. It was built in 1935 by ES Roberts from Flemish bond brickwork with Art Deco features. It is a Grade II listed building,^[55] and was on the Buildings at Risk Register until its restoration which included the restoration and repair of the stained glass façade.^[56] Wells Little Theatre is operated by a voluntary society which started in 1902. In 1989 they took over the old boy's building of Wells Blue School, where they put on a variety of operatic and other productions.^[57]

Religious sites[link]

The west front of Wells Cathedral

A walled precinct, the Liberty of St Andrew, encloses the twelfth century Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, Vicar's Close and the residences of the clergy who serve the cathedral. Entrances include the Penniless Porch^[58] The Bishop's Eye^[59] and Brown's Gatehouse^[60] which were all built around 1450.

The cathedral is of the Church of England Diocese of Bath and Wells. Wells has been an ecclesiastical city of importance for hundreds of years. Parts of the building date back to the tenth century, and it is a grade I listed building.^[61] It is known for its fine fan vaulted ceilings, Lady Chapel and windows, and the scissor arches which support the central tower. The west front is said to be the finest collection of statuary in Europe,^[62] retaining almost 300 of its original medieval statues,^[63] carved from the cathedral's warm, yellow Doulting stone.^[64] The Chapter House, at the top of a flight of stone stairs, leading out from the north transept is an octagonal building with a fan-vaulted ceiling.^[65] It is here that the business of running the cathedral is still conducted by the members of the Chapter, the cathedral's ruling body. Wells Cathedral clock is famous for its 24-hour astronomical dial and set of jousting knights that perform every quarter hour. The cathedral has the heaviest ring of ten bells in the world. The tenor bell weighs just over 56 CWT (6,272 lb, 2,844 kg).^[66]

St.Cuthbert Parish Church, Wells

The Bishop's Palace has been the home of the bishops of the Diocese of Bath and Wells for 800 years. The hall and chapel date from the 14th century.^[67] There are 14 acres (5.7 ha) of gardens including the springs from which the city takes its name. Visitors can also see the Bishop's private chapel, ruined great hall and the gatehouse with portcullis and drawbridge beside which mute swans ring a bell for food.^[68] The Bishop's Barn was built in the 15th century.^[69]

The Vicars' Close is the oldest residential street in Europe.^[22] The Close is tapered by 10 feet (3.0 m) to make it look longer when viewed from the bottom. When viewed from the top, however, it looks shorter.^{[70][71][72][73][74][75]} The Old Deanery dates from the 12th century,^[76][77][78] and St John's Priory from the 14th.^[79]

The Church of St Cuthbert (which tourists often mistake for the cathedral) has a fine Somerset stone tower and a superb carved roof. Originally an Early English building (13th century), it was much altered in the Perpendicular period (15th century).^[22] The nave's coloured ceiling was repainted in 1963 at the instigation of the then Vicar's wife, Mrs Barnett.^[80][81] Until 1561 the church had a central tower which either collapsed or was removed, and has been replaced with the current tower over the west door.^[82] Bells were cast for the tower by Roger Purdy.^[83]

Sport[link]

The city has two football clubs, one being Wells City F.C., past winners of the Western League.^[84] The oldest football club in Wells though is Belrose FC who play their football in the Mid-Somerset Football League at Haybridge Park. Wells Cricket Club runs eight sides across senior, junior and ladies cricket.^[85] Wells Wanderers Cricket Club are based in Meare.^[86]

Mid Somerset Hockey Club and Wells City Acorns Hockey Club both play on the Astroturf pitches at the Blue School,^[87] where several other sports clubs are based.^[88] Wells Leisure Centre has a 25 metres (82 ft) swimming pool, gymnasium, sports hall, sauna, steam room, relaxation area and solarium.^[89] The 18 hole Wells Golf Club is on the outskirts of the city and also has a driving range.^[90]

In popular culture[link]

The Bishop's Palace gatehouse and drawbridge

Elizabeth Goudge used Wells as a basis for the fictional cathedral city of Torminster, in her book City of Bells.^[91]

Wells has been used as the setting for several films including: The Canterbury Tales (1973),^[92] A Fistful of Fingers (1994),^[93] The Gathering (2002),^[94] The Libertine (2005),^[95] The Golden Age (2007),^[95] and Hot Fuzz (2007)^[96] The cathedral interior stood in for Southwark Cathedral during filming for the Doctor Who episode The Lazarus Experiment.^[95]

Notable people[link]

Penniless Porch and The Bishop's Eye

• Herbert E. Balch – cave explorer and founder of Wells Museum.^[97][98] His name was given to Balch Road, a council estate that was built in the 1950s.
• Mary Bignall-Rand – Gold medalist and world record breaker in the long jump at the 1964 Summer Olympics.^[99]
• Harry George Crandon – awarded the Victoria Cross during the Boer War.^[100]
• Sir Chris Clarke – county councillor for Wells from 1985 to 2005.^[101]
• Alexander Davie – born in Wells 1847, became 7th Premier of British Columbia.^[102]
• Roger Hollis – Director General of MI5.^[103]
• John Holloway – Governor of Newfoundland (1807–1809) and Admiral of the Blue.^[104]
• John Keate – born in Wells 1773, went on to become headmaster at Eton where he restored discipline with the birch, and once flogged 80 boys in one day.^[105]
• James Keene – professional footballer formerly of Portsmouth FC, playing for IF Elfsborg in Sweden.^[106]
• Harry Patch – last trench veteran of World War I, and at 111, briefly the oldest man in Europe and 3rd oldest man in the world. He was born in the nearby village of Combe Down and at the time of his death in July 2009 he was living in local care home Fletcher House.^[107]
• Hugh of Wells – native of Wells, Bishop, elder brother of Jocelin of Wells.^[108][109]
• Jocelin of Wells – native of Wells, Bishop, aided in creation of Magna Carta and largely responsible for the construction of the cathedral.^[110]
• Edgar Wright – film and television director.^[111] Directed Hot Fuzz, which was filmed in the city.

See also[link]

Somerset portal

• Visitor attractions in Somerset

References[link]