Coordinates: 51°49′03″N 0°21′09″W / 51.8175°N 0.3524°W / 51.8175; -0.3524

Harpenden
Harpenden  Harpenden shown within Hertfordshire
Population	29,881
OS grid reference	TL135145
District	St Albans
Shire county	Hertfordshire
Region	East
Country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	HARPENDEN
Postcode district	AL5
Dialling code	01582
Police	Hertfordshire
Fire	Hertfordshire
Ambulance	East of England
EU Parliament	East of England
UK Parliament	Hitchin and Harpenden
List of places: UK • England • Hertfordshire

Harpenden is a town in Hertfordshire, England.

The town's total population is just under 30,000.^[1]

Geography and administration[link]

There are two civil parishes: Harpenden and Harpenden Rural.

Harpenden railway station is on a frequent and fast rail link to central London now served by First Capital Connect, having been served previously by Thameslink. Some trains stop at 'all stations' on the route, others stop at St Albans before continuing non-stop to London St Pancras International (Harpenden to St Pancras International - 25 minutes). Trains run north to Luton and on to Bedford. From London, the trains continue south to Brighton via Gatwick, Sevenoaks or Wimbledon and Sutton. The rail link therefore gives direct access to London Luton Airport (one stop north) and London Gatwick Airport (approx 1hr 10 m on a limited stops train).

In common with much of the region, Harpenden is an area of extremely high property costs. Land Registry data suggests that the average house price in Harpenden in the 1st quarter of 2006 was £500,902 (against £287,277 for St Albans District generally, and £183,598 nationally). The data also indicates that an unusually high proportion of houses in Harpenden are owner occupied (81.4%, as opposed to 69.6% in the District generally, and 66.2% nationally).^[2]

The River Lea flows through the Batford neighbourhood. The Nicky Line railway used to link Harpenden, Redbourn and Hemel Hempstead. It has since been converted to a path forming part of the National Cycle Network. The A6 used to run through Harpenden, although the road numbering was changed to avoid congestion. The M1 runs nearby.

Harpenden has a large number of its streets named after English literary figures on the East side of the town (an area known, unsurprisingly, as the Poets' Corner), including Byron Road, Cowper Road, Kipling Way, Milton Road, Shakespeare Road, Spenser Road, Shelley Court, Tennyson Road, Townsend Road, Masefield Road and Wordsworth Road.

History[link]

There are Roman remains in land around Harpenden, for instance in the park at Rothamsted. Harpenden village grew out of Westminster Abbey's gradual clearing of woodland for farming and settlement within its Wheathampstead manor, granted by Edward the Confessor in 1060. A first reference to a parish church is in 1221 (where it is referred to as Harpendene) so it is inferred that the village grew up around then. The church of St Nicholas is the oldest church in the town, originally built as a Chapel of ease in 1217.

Just beyond the southern edge of the town lies Nomansland Common (sometimes simply called "No Man's Land") upon which part of the Second Battle of St Albans was fought during the Wars of the Roses. Nomansland Common also saw the first annually contested steeplechase in England, in 1830 when it was organised by Thomas Coleman, and the last fight of nineteenth century bare-knuckle fighter, Simon Byrne. It was also the haunt of the highwaywoman known as Lady Katherine Ferrers, better known as the "Wicked Lady".

Between 1848 and 1914 the common was a regular venue for horse racing. In his History of Hertfordshire in 1879, John Edwin Cussans commented "Notwithstanding that these meetings are under the most unexceptional patronage as regards the Stewards, yet for two days in the year all the London pickpockets, sharpers and blackguards who happen to be out of gaol are permitted to make Harpenden their own and to make travelling in a first-class carriage on the Midland Railway a danger to men and an impossibility to ladies." Golf has been played on the Common since 1894 and it was at that time Harpenden Golf Club was set up by a group of Harpenden people with the help and a financial contribution of 5 pounds from Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted Manor. The club moved to a new course at Hammonds End in 1931, at which time Harpenden Common Golf Club was formed by those who wanted to remain at the Common. In 1932 Bamville Cricket club was formed and shares part of the Common with the Golfers..a truly unique situation within the worlds of Golf and Cricket...

A widespread but now little-known industry of Harpenden was straw-weaving, a trade mainly carried out by women in the nineteenth century. A good straw weaver could make as much as a field labourer. The straw plaits were taken to the specialist markets in St Albans or Luton and bought by dealers to be converted into straw items such as boaters and other hats or bonnets.

The arrival of the railway system from 1860 and the sale of farms for residential development after 1880 radically changed Harpenden's surroundings. It grew from a basically agricultural village into a town. The actress Ellen Terry lived in Harpenden from 1868 to 1874, with her architect lover Godwin, in a house he built called Pigeonwick. He commuted into London by train.

Harpenden's most prestigious contribution to history is Rothamsted Manor and Rothamsted Research (formerly Rothamsted Experimental Station and later the Institute of Arable Crops Research), a leading centre for agricultural research. In front of its main building, which faces the common, is a stone, erected in 1893, commemorating 50 years of experiments by Sir John Bennet Lawes and Joseph Henry Gilbert.

Lawes inherited the family estate at Rothamsted in 1834. Acknowledged as "the father of agricultural science", his early field experiments on Hertfordshire farms led him to patent a phosphate fertiliser, the sales of which enriched him immensely. With the proceeds, he established the experimental station, building laboratories in the 1850s. The station continued the development of the artificial fertilisers on which most modern farmers now depend. Some of the long-term 'classical field experiments' begun by Lawes and Gilbert remain in place to this day (such as Broadbalk) representing a unique resource for agricultural and environmental research.

During the Second World War, Harpenden was used to evacuate children from heavily-bombed London. However, Harpenden was not totally confident in its safety, as evidenced by the now decaying Bowers Parade air raid shelters, soon to be secured for the future. It has been suggested both that it be used for educational and emergency training purposes.^[3]

The Harpenden and District Local History Society^[4] has a collection of local material and archives which can be consulted, and holds regular meetings on topics of historical interest.

Shopping[link]

Harpenden has many shops commonly found in other English towns, with three central supermarkets, multiple female clothes shops, charity shops, banks, estate agents and chemists. A good proportion of these are run by independent retailers. The local council has resisted the opening of fast food chain outlets. Cafes are also common in Harpenden, but with only two commercial chains; the rest are owned independently. There are multiple restaurants, mainly of Italian origin, and many pubs; both in central Harpenden and in its suburbs.

Parks and commons[link]

Harpenden Common

One notable feature of Harpenden is its abundant parks and commons. The central area of Harpenden, known locally as "the village" is characterised by Church Green, Leyton Green and the High Street Greens, which give the town its provincial feel.

Just to the south of the town centre is Harpenden Common, stretching from the shops in the town centre for more than a mile to the south, encompassing a total of 238 acres (96 ha). Today Harpenden Common hosts two cricket clubs, a football club, bridle ways for horse riding, ramblers' paths and Harpenden Common Golf Club, all contained in an area of natural beauty which was awarded a national Green Flag Award in 2007. Harpenden Town Council is keen to help retain and maintain the environment and oversees habitat issues including bird and bat watching, the maintenance/regeneration of gorse, fungi and all the original wildlife(fauna and flora) for the benefit of the people of Harpenden. Since 1894 Harpenden Common Golf Club has traditionally maintained a large part of the common and today works closely with Harpenden Town Council and Countryside management. This partnership has enabled the people of Harpenden to take full advantage of the common for all kinds of leisure activities,and the relationship of the golfers and others users has been excellent for many years.

In addition the town has large green public spaces available in Rothamsted Park, Batford Park, Kinsbourne Green, Lydekker Park and the Nicky Line which bisects the town.

Just to the south of Harpenden is the large expanse of Nomansland Common.

Education[link]

Harpenden boasts several secondary schools:

• St. George's School, a specialist Technology and Language College
• Sir John Lawes School, a specialist Media Arts College and Science College and Teacher Training college
• Roundwood Park School, a specialist Mathematics and Computing College and Language College
• Aldwickbury School is an independent all boys preparatory school.

Twinning[link]

Harpenden is twinned with:

• Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, France
• Alzey, Germany

Miscellany[link]

• Rothamsted Research, the largest agricultural research centre in the United Kingdom, and perhaps the oldest in the world, is in Harpenden.
• Youth With A Mission an international Christian missionary organization, has their England Head Office in Harpenden.^[5] This is on the site of the old National Children's Home.
• In a 2008 episode of Peep Show, Sophie was mentioned as owning a mug marked "Harpenden, Harpenden, Harpenden".
• An annual classic car show, "Classics on the Common",^[6] is held on the last Wednesday in July attracting over 10,000 visitors and 1300 cars. One of the biggest events of its type in Europe, it is a free event with any monies collected going to charity.
• In the Monty Python's Flying Circus episode "Deja vu", Michael Palin hijacks a plane and wants it to fly to Luton, then he changes his mind and wants them to take him to Harpenden.

Notable residents[link]

• Nan Asquith, the pen name of Nancy Evelyn Pattinson, the author of 20 or so romantic novels, settled in Harpenden after the war and stayed there until her shortly before her death in the seventies.^{[citation needed]}
• Julian Bliss, international clarinettist and child prodigy was born and raised in Harpenden.^[7]
• Steve Borthwick - who is the current Saracens rugby captain lives in Harpenden.
• Ken Brown, who played in the Ryder Cup and is now a commentator for major golf competitions such as the British Open
• Craig Charles, comedian and actor in Red Dwarf and Coronation Street and host of the Funk and Soul Show and Robot Wars.^[8]
• Ralph Chubb, poet, artist and printer was born here in 1892.
• Donald Coxeter, 20th century geometer attended St. George's School.
• Matt Dickinson, Everest mountaineer, author, scriptwriter and director.
• Lee Dixon, former Arsenal footballer.
• Ferdinand Walsin Esterhazy, involved in the Dreyfus affair lived in Milton Road, after his flight from France until his death in 1923. He is buried in St Nicholas' churchyard.
• Siobhan Fahey, singer in Bananarama lived in Harpenden while she was 14 - 16. She attended Sir John Lawes School for those 2 years.
• Andy Farrell, Saracens and England Rugby player.
• Owen Farrell, rugby player for Saracens and a former member of St Georges School.
• Ronald Fisher, a statistician who almost single-handedly created the foundations for modern statistical science.^[9] worked at Rothamsted Experimental Station.
• Miles Golding, classical musician and violinist of Split Enz.
• Martin Gore from the band Depeche Mode.
• Richard Herring, Comedian and podcaster, living in Harpenden while London home is renovated.^[10]
• George Hogg, British journalist who rescued 50 orphaned children in China during the Japanese occupation.
• Frank Ifield, Australian singer and yodeller lived in Harpenden.
• Guy Johnston, cello soloist and winner of BBC Young Musician of the Year in 2000.
• Stanley Kubrick, filmmaker, lived and died in nearby Childwickbury Manor.
• Henry Lawson, Australian writer, lived in 'Spring Villa', Cowper Rd, Harpenden from July-September, 1900.
• Andy Linighan, former Arsenal footballer.
• Eric Morecambe, comedian, lived in Harpenden, close to his beloved Luton Town FC. His funeral and burial took place in St. Nicholas Church. The Public Halls are named after him.
• Albert Moses, an actor who starred in Mind Your Language playing Punjabi student Ranjeet Singh and a number of James Bond films.
• John Motson, Football commentator.
• Tim Rice, the composer, attended Aldwickbury School.
• Raphael Salaman, collector of, and writer on, trade tools, particularly woodworking and leatherworking.^[11]
• Christopher Strauli, actor, who starred in Only When I Laugh and Full House was born in Harpenden.
• Dame Ellen Terry, actress 1847–1928, who lived in Harpenden from 1868 to 1874.
• Sir John Wittewronge, owned and lived at Rothamsted Manor, where in the seventeenth century he kept a weather and gardening diary which has very early records of rain, temperature and winds.
• Ashley Young, Aston Villa and England International football player.
• Richard Youngs alternative musician, grew up in the town and recorded several albums there, especially Lake and Advent.

Sport[link]

Harpenden is home to various sports clubs. Just a selection are listed below:

• Harpenden Town Football Club
• Harpenden Rugby Football Club
• Elliswick Lawn Tennis Club
• Harpenden Lawn Tennis Club
• Harpenden Dolphins Cricket Club
• Bamville Cricket Club
• Harpenden Colts Football Club
• Harpenden Hockey Club
• Harpenden Golf Club
• Harpenden Common Golf Club
• Harpenden Swimming Club
• Harpenden (Lawn) Bowling Club
• Harpenden Aro Runners
• Skew Bridge FC
• [4]

Scouting Groups[link]

• 1st Harpenden Scouts
• 2nd Harpenden Scouts
• 3rd Harpenden Scouts
• 4th Harpenden Scouts
• 9th Harpenden Scouts
• 10th Harpenden Scouts
• 12th Harpenden Scouts

Harpenden Explorer Scout Unit (HESU) Kingsbourne Explorer Scouts (KES) Shackleton Explorer Scout Unit (SESU)

Harpenden and Wheathamstead are is the District

Gallery[link]

• 

  Harpenden High Street, looking north

• 

  Harpenden High Street, looking north

• 

  Harpenden High Street, looking south

• 

  Harpenden War Memorial

• 

  St Nicholas Church

• 

  Lydekker Park

• 

  Rose garden in Rothamsted Park

References[link]

External links[link]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Harpenden

Wikisource has the text of the 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica article Harpenden.

• Harpenden Town Council
• Classics on the Common website
• Harpenden Round Table Website
• Harpenden Circle Website
• Harpenden Common Golf Club Website
• Harpendia - online magazine and video channel