Official name	Mostar
Native name	Мостар
Settlement type	City
Coordinates region	BA
Subdivision type	Country
Subdivision name
Subdivision type1	Entity
Subdivision name1	Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Subdivision type2	Canton
Subdivision name2	Herzegovina-Neretva
Timezone	CET
Utc offset	+1
Map caption	Map of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mostar)
Timezone dst	CEST
Utc offset dst	+2
Latns	N
longew	E|coordinates_display
Image shield	Coat of arms of Mostar.svg
Leader title	Mayor
Leader name	Ljubo Bešlić
Leader party	HDZ
Area total km2	1175
Area total km2	|population_blank1 128,443|population_blank1_titleMunicipality|
Population density km2	89.8
Pushpin label position
Pushpin map caption	Location of Banja Luka
Postal code type	Postal code
Postal code	88000
Area code	(+387) 36
Subdivisions	none
Website	http://www.mostar.ba/ }}

Mostar is a city and municipality in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the largest and one of the most important cities in the Herzegovina region and the center of the Herzegovina-Neretva Canton of the Federation. Mostar is situated on the Neretva river and is the fifth-largest city in the country. Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (natively: ''mostari'') who in the medieval times guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over Neretva river. The Old Bridge is one of the city's most recognizable landmarks.

History

Human settlements on the river Neretva, between the Hum Hill and the Velež Mountain, have existed since prehistory, as witnessed by discoveries of fortified enceintes and cemeteries. Evidence of Roman occupation was discovered beneath the present town.

As far as the medieval Mostar goes, although the Christian basilicas of late antiquity remained in use, few historical sources were preserved and not much is known about this period. The name of Mostar was first mentioned in a document dating from 1474, taking its name from the bridge-keepers (mostari); this refers to the existence of a wooden bridge from the market on the left bank of the river which was used by traders, soldiers, and other travelers. During this time it was also the seat of a kadiluk (district with a regional judge). Since Mostar was on the trade route between the Adriatic and the mineral-rich regions of central Bosnia, the settlement began to spread to the right bank of the river.

However, prior to the 1474 the names of two towns appear in medieval historical sources, along with their later medieval territories and properties – the towns of ''Nebojša'' and ''Cimski grad''. In the early 15th century the late medieval county of ''Večenike'' covered the site of the present-day Mostar along the right bank of the Neretva: ''Zahum'', ''Cim'', ''Ilići'', ''Hraštani'' and ''Vojno''. It was at the center of this area, which in 1408 belonged to the Radivojević's, that Cim fort was built (prior to 1443). Mostar is indirectly referred to in a charter of King Alfonso V of Aragon dating from 1454 as ''Pons'' (Bridge), for a bridge had already been built there. Prior to 1444, the Nebojša fort was built on the left bank of the Neretva, which belonged to the late medieval county still known as Večenike or Večerić. The earliest documentary reference to Mostar as a settlement dates from April 3, 1452, when natives of Dubrovnik wrote to their fellow countrymen in the service of Đorđe Branković to say that Vladislav Hercegović had turned against his father and occupied the town called Blagaj and other places, including ''“Duo Castelli al ponte de Neretua.”''. In 1468 Mostar came under Ottoman rule

The town was fortified between the years 1520 and 1566, and the wooden bridge was rebuilt in stone. The stone bridge, the Old Bridge (''Stari Most''), was erected in 1566 on the orders of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Ottoman ruler. Later becoming the city's symbol, the Old Bridge (''Stari Most'') is one of the most important structures of the Ottoman era and was built by Mimar Hayrudin, a student of the famous Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan.In the late 16th century, Mostar was the chief administrative city for the Ottoman Empire in the Herzegovina region.

The Stari Most, bridge: 28 meters long and 20 meters high (90' by 64'), quickly became a wonder in its own time. The famous traveler Evliya Çelebi wrote in the 17th century that: ''the bridge is like a rainbow arch soaring up to the skies, extending from one cliff to the other. ...I, a poor and miserable slave of Allah, have passed through 16 countries, but I have never seen such a high bridge. It is thrown from rock to rock as high as the sky.''

The Austro-Hungarian Empire absorbed Mostar in 1878 and it ruled there until the aftermath of World War I in 1918. The first church in the city of Mostar, a Serbian Orthodox Church, was built during the Austro-Hungarian rule. In 1881 the town became the seat of the Bishopric of Mostar-Duvno and in 1939, it became a part of the Banovina of Croatia. During World War II Mostar was also an important city in the Independent State of Croatia.

After the World War II, Mostar developed a production of plastics (fundamentally used in toilet seats) tobacco, bauxite, wine, aircraft and aluminium products. Several dams (''Grabovica'', ''Salakovac'', ''Mostar'') were built in the region to harness the hydroelectric power of the Neretva. The city was a major industrial and tourist center and prospered economically during the time of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

Between 1992 and 1993, after Bosnia and Herzegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia, the town was subject to an 18 month siege. The Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) first bombed Mostar on April 3, 1992 and over the following week gradually established control over a large part of the town. By June 12, 1992 the Croatian Defence Council (HVO) and the 4th Corps of the ARBiH (which was one of five later seven corps formed in 1992) in a joined action amassed enough strength to force the JNA out of Mostar. The JNA responded with shelling. Amongst the monuments destroyed were a Franciscan monastery, the Catholic cathedral and the bishop's palace (with a library of 50,000 books), a number of secular institutions as well as the Karadžoz-bey mosque, and thirteen other mosques.

In mid June 1992, after the battle line moved eastward, the HVO demolished the Serbian Orthodox Žitomislić Monastery as well as the Saborna Crkva (Orthodox Cathedral Church) that was built in 1863-1873. During the Bosnian War of 1992-95, the Serb Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Trinity () and the Church of the Birth of the Most Holy Virgin (Црква Рођења Пресвете Богородице/Crkva Rođenja Presvete Bogorodice), both dating to the mid 19th century, were demolished by the HVO. The cathedral was also known as the New Orthodox Church (Нова православна црква/Nova pravoslavna crkva), while the latter was known as the Old Orthodox Church (Стара православна црква/Stara pravoslavna crkva). According to the Chairman of the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Nikola Špirić, the reconstruction of the cathedral is due to begin in Spring 2008, and will be funded by Prince Charles.

On November 18, 1991, the Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ) branch in Bosnia and Herzegovina, proclaimed the existence of the Croatian Republic of Herzeg-Bosnia, as a separate "political, cultural, economic and territorial whole," on the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Mostar was divided into a Western part, which was dominated by the Croat forces and an Eastern part where the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina was largely concentrated. After the war, the ICTY accused the Croatian Republic of Herzeg-Bosnia leadership for the crimes against humanity and other war crimes during the war, including the destruction of the Stari Most bridge.

Climate

Mostar, and Herzegovina area in general, have more affinity to the Croatian region of Dalmatia, which can be oppressively hot during the summer. In Mostar, situated along the Neretva River, the coldest month is January, averaging about , and the warmest month is July, averaging about . Mostar experiences a relatively dry season from June to September. The remainder of the year is wet and mild.

Architecture

Mostar has architecturally noteworthy buildings in a wide range of styles. Though Mostar was officially part of the Ottoman Empire until the third quarter of the nineteenth century, all of the territories that would later become Bosnia and Herzegovina enjoyed an unusual measure of independence in the eighteenth and most of the nineteenth centuries. Historicist architectural styles reflected cosmopolitan interest and exposure to foreign aesthetic trends and were artfully merged with indigenous styles. Examples include the Italianate Franciscan church, the Ottoman Muslibegovića house, the Dalmatian Corovica House and an Orthodox church which was built as gift from the Sultan.

The Ottomans used monumental architecture to affirm, extend and consolidate their colonial holdings. Administrators and bureaucrats – many of them indigenous Bosnians who converted to Islam – founded mosque complexes that generally included Koranic schools, soup kitchens or markets.

Out of the thirteen original mosques dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, seven have been lost during the 20th century for ideological reasons or by bombardment. One of the two 19th-century Orthodox churches has also disappeared, while the early 20th-century synagogue, after suffering severe damage in the World War II, has been converted into a theatre. Several Ottoman inns also survived, along with other buildings from this period of Mostar's history, such as fountains and schools. The majority of administrative buildings are from the Austro-Hungarian period and have neoclassical and Secessionist characteristics. A number of surviving late Ottoman houses demonstrate the component features of this form of domestic architecture - upper storey for residential use, hall, paved courtyard, and verandah on one or two storeys. The later 19th-century residential houses are predominantly in neoclassical style.

A number of early trading and craft buildings still exist, notably some low shops in wood or stone, stone storehouses, and a group of former tanneries round an open courtyard. Once again, the 19th-century commercial buildings are predominantly neoclassical. A number of elements of the early fortifications are visible. Namely the Hercegusa Tower dating from the medieval period, whereas the Ottoman defence edifices are represented by the Halebinovka and Tara Towers - the watchtowers on the ends of the Old Bridge, and a stretch of the ramparts.

During the period of Austro-Hungarian rule (1878–1918), Mostar’s city council cooperated with the Austro-Hungarians to implement sweeping reforms in city planning: broad avenues and an urban grid were imposed on the western bank of the Neretva, and significant investments were made in infrastructure, communications and housing. City administrators like Mustafa Mujaga Komadina were central players in these transformations, which facilitated growth and linked the eastern and western banks of the city. Noteworthy examples of Austro-Hungarian architecture include the Municipality building, which was designed by the architect Josip Vancas from Sarajevo, Residential districts around the Rondo, and the Gymnasium from 1902 designed by Franc Blazek.

Between 1948 and 1974 the industrial base was expanded with construction of a metal-working factory, cotton textile mills, and an aluminum plant. Skilled workers, both men and women, entered the work force and the social and demographic profile of the city was broadened dramatically; between 1945 and 1980, Mostar’s population grew from 18,000 to 100,000.

Because Mostar’s eastern bank was burdened by inadequate infrastructure, the city expanded on the western bank with the construction of large residential blocks. Local architects favored an austere modernist aesthetic, prefabrication and repetitive modules. Commercial buildings in the functionalist style appeared on the historic eastern side of the city as well, replacing more intimate timber constructions that had survived since Ottoman times. In the 1970s and 1980s, a healthy local economy fueled by foreign investment spurred recognition and conservation of the city’s cultural heritage. An economically sustainable plan to preserve the old town of Mostar was implemented by the municipality, which drew thousands of tourists from the Adriatic coast and invigorated the economy of the city. The results of this ten-year project earned Mostar an Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 1986. Realizing early on that the reconstruction of the bridge without an in-depth rehabilitation of the surrounding historic neighbourhoods would be devoid of context and meaning, they shaped the programme in such a way as to establish a framework of urban conservation schemes and individual restoration projects that would help regenerate the most significant areas of historic Mostar, and particularly the urban tissue around the Old Bridge. The project also resulted in the establishment of the Stari Grad Agency which has an important role in overseeing the ongoing implementation of the conservation plan, as well as operating and maintaining a series of restored historic buildings (including the Old Bridge complex) and promoting Mostar as a cultural and tourist destination. The official inauguration of the Stari grad Agency coincided with the opening ceremony of the Bridge. In July 2005, UNESCO finally inscribed the Old Bridge and its closest vicinity onto the World Heritage List.

Arts

The city excels in the spheres of art, cuisine, music, theater, museums, and literature. The city is the birthplace of many famous artists, including Aleksa Santic, Osman Đikić, Vladimir Ćorović, Elisabeth Radó, Ivan Zovko, Predrag Matvejević, Himzo Polovina, and Grga Martic. Mostar is also widely celebrated in popular lore, featured frequently as the setting for books, movies, and television programs. ''Dani Matice Hrvatske'' is one of city's significant cultural events and it is commonly sponsored by the Croatian Government and the Government of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. ''Mostar Summer'' is another umbrella event which includes ''Šantić Poetry Evenings'', ''Mostar Summer Festival'' and ''Festival of Bosnia and Herzegovina choirs/ensembles''. The city is a home of music festival called ''Melodije Mostara'' (Mostar Melodies) which has been held annually since 1995. Theatre festivals include ''Mostarska Liska'' (organized by the Croatian National Theatre) and ''The International Festival of Author Poetics'' (organized by the Mostar Youth Theatre).

Mostar Art institutions include:

Croatian Lodge "Herceg Stjepan Kosaca"

Cultural Center Mostar

OKC Abrašević (English: Abrašević Youth Center)

Pavarotti Music Centre

Croatian National Theatre Mostar (HNK)

National Theatre Mostar

Museum of the Old Bridge

The Herzegovina Museum

Mostar Youth Theatre

Centre for Drama Education (CDO)

Herzegovina Archive (also known as the county archive)

Aluminij Gallery

"Herceg Stjepan Kosaca" Library

Children's library

"Luka" Library

Aleksa Šantić House

Mostar Choir

Muslibegović House

World Music Centre

Cuisine

Mostar cuisine is balanced between Western and Eastern influences. Traditional Mostar food is closely related to Turkish, Middle Eastern and other Mediterranean cuisines. However, due to years of Austrian rule and influence, there are also many culinary influences from Central Europe.

Some of the famous dishes include ćevapčići, burek, sarma, japrak, musaka, dolma, sudžuk, sač, đuveč, and sataraš. Famous local desserts include baklava, hurmašice, sutlijaš, tulumbe, tufahije, and šampita.

Economy

Mostar's economy relies heavily on the aluminium and metal industry, agricultural production, stone manufacturing and tourism. The private sector has seen a notable increase in small and medium enterprises over the past couple of years contributing to the positive business climate. A number of major international banks have their branch offices in Mostar. Considering the fact that three dams are situated on the city of Mostar’s territory, the city has a solid base for further development of production. There is also an ongoing project for the possible use of wind power and building of windmills.

Prior to the 1991-1995 war Mostar relied on other important companies which had been closed, damaged or downsized. They included SOKO (military aircraft factory), Fabrika duhana Mostar (tobacco industry), and Hepok (food industry). In 1981 Mostar's GDP per capita was 103% of the Yugoslav average

The only company from the former Yugoslavia, which still works well is Aluminij. Aluminij is one of the country's strongest companies and it has a number of international partners. The company steadily increases its annual production and it collaborates with leading global corporations such as Daimler Chrysler and Fiat.

Mostar also hosts the annual "International Economy Fair" ("Međunarodni sajam gospodarstva") which was first held in 1997. The Fair consist of several smaller sections: "The Economy Fair ", "Wine Fair", "Book Fair" and "Food Day".

Demographics

Mostar is the city with the largest population of Croats in Bosnia-Herzegovina. It has estimated population of 105,448. As many other bosnian/herzegovinian cities, its demographic profile was significantly altered after the 1992-1995 Bosnian war. The last demographics research was conducted in 1991 and its results were as follows:

Bosniaks - 43,930 (34.9%)

Croats - 42,648 (33.8%)

Serbs - 23,909 (19.0%)

Yugoslavs - 12,654 (10.0%)

Others - 2,925 (2.3%)

Total - 126,066

The Serbs of Mostar amounted to approximately 20% of the population at the outbreak of the Bosnian War in 1992, during which a majority of them left or were forced to leave. Until today, very few Serbs have returned.

City government

The City of Mostar has the status of a municipality. The city government is led by the Mayor. The current Mayor of Mostar is Ljubo Bešlić (HDZ). The City Council is composed of 35 representatives, coming from the following political parties:

Croatian Coalition 13

Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ)

United Croatian Party of Rights (UHSP)

Croatian Party of Rights (HSP)

Croatian Christian Democratic Union (HKDU)

Croatian People's Union (HNZ)

Party of Democratic Action (SDA) 10

Social Democratic Party (SDP) 4

Party for Bosnia and Herzegovina 4

People's Party Work for Betterment 1

Croatian Coalition 1

Croatian Party of Rights (HSP)

Croatian Pure Party of Rights (HČSP)

Independent 2

2008 constitutional crisis

According to the constitution, imposed by High Representative Paddy Ashdown on January 28, 2004 after local politicians failed to reach an agreement, the mayor of Mostar has to be elected by the city council with 2/3 majority. Ashdown abolished the six municipalities that were divided equally among Bosniaks and Croats and replaced them with six electoral units, ridding Mostar of duplicate institutions and costs. In the process Ashdown also reduced the number of elected officials from 194 to 35. According to the constitution the constitutive nations of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs) are guaranteed a minimum of four seats and a maximum of 15 seats. 18 deputies are elected by the election units: 3 deputies from each district and 15 deputies are elected at the level of entire city. This move was opposed by the Party for Democratic Action (SDA) and the Croatian Democratic Union (HDZ).

In October 2008, there were elections for the city council. Relative winners were HDZ BiH with the greatest number of votes. However, neither party had enough votes to ensure election of the mayor from their party. The city council met 16 times without success. OHR is also involved, but without success. At last Ljubo Bešlić, running as a candidate of Croatian Democratic Union, was reelected as a mayor.

In a January 26 poll organized by the international community, 75 percent of Mostar’s citizens said that they support the idea of a unified city. Some 83 percent said that they believed that no one ethnic group should rule the city, and 81 percent said that unification should have been accomplished long ago.

Education

Mostar has a number of educational institutions. These include University of Mostar, University "Džemal Bijedić" of Mostar, United World College in Mostar, nineteen high-schools and twenty four elementary schools. High-schools include sixteen vocational schools and three Gymnasiums.

The University of Mostar (Croatian: Sveučilište u Mostaru; Latin: Universitas Studiorum Mostariensis) is the largest university in the city and the only Croatian language university in Bosnia and Herzegovina at this time. The Franciscan Theologica School founded in 1895 and closed in 1945 was a start of higher education in Mostar. The University seal shows the building of the Franciscan Monastery. The higher education reform and the signing of the Bologna declaration have forced both universities to put aside their differences to some extent and work to make themselves competitive on a regional level.

As of 2010/2011 University of Mostar had 9431 students enrolled at ten faculties and is the largest university in the city.

The University "Džemal Bijedić" is the second state university in Mostar and it's consisted of 8 faculties.

It employs 250 teachers and staff, and the teaching process are engaged 222 teachers and students from other universities. As of 2010/2011 University "Džemal Bijedić" had 4710 student, according to the data of the Federal statistical office.

Sports

The most popular sport in Mostar is football. The two most successful teams are FK Velež Mostar. FK Velež Mostar won the Yugoslav cup in 1986 placing it as one of the biggest sport achievements in Mostar has achieved. Today two teams from Mostar compete in the Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina, both FK Velež Mostar and HŠK Zrinjski Mostar. Since the Bosnian War each club has generally been supported by a particular ethnic group (Zrinjski for the Croats and Velež for the Bosniaks). The matches between the two clubs are some of the country's most intense matches.

Bijeli Brijeg Stadium and Vrapčići Stadium are the city's two main football grounds.

In basketball, HKK Zrinjski Mostar competes at the nation's highest level while the Zrinjski banner also represents the city in the top handball league. Vahid Halilhodzic, a former Bosnian football player who currently manages the Algeria national football team, started his professional career in FK Velež Mostar.

Tourism

Mostar is an important tourist destination in Bosnia and Herzgovina. Mostar International Airport serves the city as well as the train and bus stations which connect it to a number of national and international destinations. Mostar's old town is an important tourist destination with the Stari Most being its most recognizable feature.

Some of the Mostar's noteworthy sites include Bishop’s Ordinariate building, the remains of the Early Christian Basilica - Cim, Public Turkish Bath (hammam), clock tower (sahat kula), Synagogue (1889) and Jewish Memorial Cemetery, Nesuh-Aga Vucjaković Mosque, Hadzi-Kurt Mosque or Tabacica, Metropolitan Palace (1908), Karadjoz-Beg Mosque (1557), Orthodox Church, Catholic Church and Franciscan Monastery, Ottoman Residences (16th-19th century), Crooked Bridge, Tara and Halebija Towers.

Partisan cemetery in Mostar, which is a World War II memorial, is another important city symbol and it was designed by the famous architect Bogdan Bogdanović. Its sacrosanct quality consists in the unity of nature (water and greenery) with the architectural expression of the designer; the monument was included into a list of national monuments in 2006.

The "Rondo shopping centre", "Biosfera Mall", "Orka Mall" and the "Mercator shopping mall" are some of the city's newer attractions. The Catholic pilgrimage site of Međugorje is also nearby as well as the Tekija Dervish Monastery in Blagaj, 13th century town of Pocitelj, Kravice waterfalls, seaside town of Neum, Roman villa rustica from the early fourth century Mogorjelo, Stolac with its famous stećak necropolis and the remains of an ancient Greek town of Daorson. Nearby sites also include the nature park called Hutovo Blato, Boracko Lake as well as Vjetrenica cave, the largest and most important cave in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

See also

Tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Serbs in Mostar

References

External links

Visit Mostar

City of Mostar

Mostar International Airport

Ultimate guide to Mostar

Bridge opens but Mostar remains a divided city, ''The Guardian'', July 23, 2004

Photos and spherical panoramas of Mostar

"A Short History of Mostar" - published in ''Conservation and Revitalisation of Historic Mostar''

Category:Populated places in Mostar Category:People from Mostar

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