Country | England |
---|---|
Official name | Whitby |
Latitude | 54.4858 |
Longitude | -0.6206 |
Civil parish | Whitby |
Population | 13,594 |
Population ref | (2001 census) |
Shire district | Scarborough |
Region | Yorkshire and the Humber |
Shire county | North Yorkshire |
Constituency westminster | Scarborough and Whitby |
Post town | WHITBY |
Postcode district | YO21, YO22 |
Postcode area | YO |
Dial code | 01947 |
Os grid reference | NZ893109 |
Static image | |
Static image caption | Whitby and River Esk |
Static image 2 | |
Static image 2 caption | Arms of Whitby Town Council }} |
The settlement was first recorded in 656, as Streonshal, its Old English name, when Oswy, the Christian king of Northumbria, founded Whitby Abbey, under its first abbess, Hilda. The Synod of Whitby was held at the abbey in 664. In 867, the monastery was destroyed by Viking raiders, and was refounded in 1078. It was in this period that the town gained its current name, Whitby, (from "white settlement" in Old Norse). In the 18th century Whitby became a centre for shipbuilding and whaling, as well as trade in alum and jet.
Whitby is known for its fine examples of ammonite fossils. Three green ammonites are featured on the coat of arms of Whitby Town Council. Tourism and fishing form the mainstay of the town's economy. It is the closest port to the proposed wind farm developments in the North Sea. There are rail and bus links to the rest of North Yorkshire and North East England. Whitby has featured in literary works, television and cinema; most famously in Bram Stoker's novel, Dracula.
In 867, Vikings from Denmark landed west of Whitby at Raven's Hill, attacked the settlement and destroyed the monastery. After the Norman Conquest of 1066 the land was granted to William de Percy who gave the land so that the monastery could be refounded as a Benedictine house dedicated to St Peter and St Hilda in 1078. The original gift of William de Percy not only included the monastery of St. Peter at Streoneshalch, but the town and port of Whitby with its parish church of St. Mary and six dependent chapels at Fyling, Hawsker, Sneaton, Ugglebarnby, Dunsley, and Aislaby, five mills including Ruswarp, the town of Hackness with two mills and the parish church of St. Mary, and the church of St. Peter at Hackness. In about 1128 Henry I granted the abbey burgage in Whitby and permission to hold a fair at the feast of St. Hilda on 25 August. A second fair was held close to St. Hilda's winter feast at Martinmas. The market rights were granted to the abbey and descended with the liberty. Whitby Abbey surrendered in December 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries. Today it is a popular attraction and in 2007 a Youth Hostel was made.
At the end of the 16th century, Thomas Chaloner visited alum works in the Papal States where the rock was similar to that under his Guisborough estate. Alum was important for medicinal uses, in curing leather and for fixing dyed cloths. The Papal States and Spain maintained monopolies on the production and sale of alum but Chaloner secretly brought workmen from the Papal States to develop the industry in Yorkshire. Once it was established, imports were banned. Although the methods in its production were laborious, England became self-sufficient. Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and the trade in coal from the Durham coalfield to process it. Alum was produced near Sandsend Ness from the town in 1615.
Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include shipbuilding, using local oak timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754 tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle. Taxes on imports entering via the port raised the finance to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first whaling ship set sail to Greenland initiating a new phase in the town's development, and by 1795 Whitby had become a major centre for the whaling industry. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, with the whaler, the Resolution's catch producing 230 tons of oil. Blubber was boiled in four harbourside oil houses and sold for oil lamps. Whale oil was used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company became the Whitby Coal and Gas Company. The carcases yielded 42 tons of whale bone used for 'stays' in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant. Catches became too small to be economic, and the fleet suffered a series of shipwrecks. By 1831 only one ship named the Phoenix was engaged in whaling.
Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London. James Cook worked on Whitby colliers, shipping coal from the Tyne and Wear in 1746. HMS Endeavour, the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named Earl of Pembroke. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.
Whitby developed as a spa town in Georgian times when a chalybeate spring was in demand for its medicinal and tonic qualities. It attracted visitors leading to the building of "lodging-houses" and hotels particularly on the West Cliff. Then, in 1839 the Whitby and Pickering Railway connecting Whitby to Pickering and eventually to York was built, and played a part in the development of Whitby as a tourism destination. George Hudson, who promoted the link to York, was responsible for the development of the Royal Crescent which was only partly completed. For 12 years from 1847, Robert Stephenson, son of George Stephenson, engineer to the Whitby and Pickering Railway, was the Conservative MP for the town. Hudson, who had business interests in Whitby, promoted Robert as a fellow protectionist.
The black mineraloid jet, the fossilised remains of the wood the monkey-puzzle tree, is found in the cliffs and on the moors and has been used since the Bronze Age to make beads. It was brought to Whitby by pack pony to be made into a wide range of decorative items. The Romans mined jet, and it was at the peak of its popularity in the mid-19th century, when it was favoured for mourning jewellery by Queen Victoria after the death of Prince Albert.
The advent of iron ships in the late 19th century and port development on the River Tees led to the decline of small harbours such as Whitby. The last wooden ship built in the port, the Monks-haven, launched in 1871, and the following year the harbour was silted up with gravel.
During the first half of the 20th century the work of the port was mainly confined to its fishing fleet, however a few cargo boats used the port up to the start of World War II. During a dock strike at Hull in 1955, six ships successfully unloaded their 2,500 tons of potatoes on Whitby fish quay in June and the revival of the old port began. In 1964 the local council opened Endeavour Wharf, near the railway station, and five years later a private wharf on the opposite side of the harbour received its first cargo boat since 1939. The number of vessels using the port increased from 64 in 1964 to 291 eight years later. Major imports are timber, paper and chemicals, while exports have included steel, furnace-bricks, doors, and caravans. The port is owned and managed by Scarborough Borough Council since the Harbour Commissioners relinquished responsibility in 1905.
A marina was started in 1979 by dredging the upper harbour and laying of floating pontoon with of drying pontoon. The adjacent of reclaimed land is used for car parking and marine-orientated industries. The Church Street Pontoon was completed in 1991 and the Party Pontoon in 1995. The Whitby Marina Facilities Centre was opened in June 2010.
Since 1974 Whitby has been within the area governed by Scarborough Borough Council, which is one of the seven district councils in North Yorkshire. For borough council purposes the town comprises three wards, Mayfield, Streonshalh and Whitby West Cliff. The borough council is a non-metropolitan district, responsible for housing, planning, leisure and recreation, waste collection, environmental health and revenue collection. North Yorkshire County Council is a non-metropolitan county providing education, transport, highways, fire, waste disposal, social and library services. At the lowest level of governance Whitby has a town council which, for election and administrative purposes, is divided into six electoral wards represented by 19 councillors responsible for burial grounds, allotments, play areas and some street lighting. Elections to the town council are held every four years.
In the UK parliament the town is represented by a Conservative, Robert Goodwill, who was elected member for the Scarborough and Whitby constituency in 2010. Whitby lies within the Yorkshire and the Humber constituency of the European Parliament, which in the June 2009 European Election elected two Conservative, one Labour, one UKIP, one Liberal Democrat and one British National Party MEPs, although one of the elected Conservative MEPs transferred to the Liberal Democrats in March 2010.
The swing bridge separates the upper and lower harbours which have a total area of around .
The town is surrounded by the moorland of the North York Moors National Park and the coastal areas are designated as part of the North Yorkshire and Cleveland Heritage Coast. The harbour and the mouth of the River Esk are on a geological fault. On the east side the cliff is tall, , and consists of alternating layers of shale, sandstone and clay. On the west side of the harbour the cliff is much lower and has a deep capping of boulder clay over a sandstone base. This makes it less stable and liable to slippage. Both cliffs are being eroded quite rapidly. This stretch of the Yorkshire coast, known as the 'Dinosaur Coast', the 'Fossil Coast' or the 'Jurassic Coast', is around long, stretching from Staithes in the north, to Flamborough in the East Riding of Yorkshire. At Whitby dinosaur footprints are visible on the beach. The rock strata contain fossils and organic remains including jet. Fossils include the petrified bones of an almost complete crocodile and a specimen of plesiosaurus measuring in length, and in breadth was discovered in 1841. Smaller fossil include many different kinds of ammonites, or "snake stones" in the alum shales and at Whitby Scar nautilites in the lower beds of the lias strata.The Hildoceras genus of ammonite is named in honour of St. Hilda of Whitby. The Rotunda Museum in Scarborough has a comprehensive collection of fossils from the area.
The Whitby area generally has warm summers and relatively mild winters. Weather conditions vary from day to day as well as from season to season. The latitude of the area means that it is influenced by predominantly westerly winds with depressions and their associated fronts, bringing with them unsettled and windy weather, particularly in winter. Between depressions there are often small mobile anticyclones that bring periods of fine weather. In winter anticyclones bring cold dry weather. In summer the anticyclones tend to bring dry settled conditions which can lead to drought. The two dominant influences on the climate of the Whitby area are the shelter against the worst of the moist westerly winds provided by the North York Moors and the proximity of the North Sea. Late, chilly springs and warm summers are a feature of the area but there are often spells of fine autumn weather. Onshore winds in spring and early summer bring mists or low stratus clouds (known locally as sea frets) to the coasts and moors.
Population growth in Whitby from 1801 to 1961 | ||||||||||||||||||
Year | 1801 | 1811 | 1821 | 1831 | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1941 | 1951 | 1961 | |
Population | 10,974 | 10,275 | 12,584 | 11,725 | 11,682 | 12,875 | – | 7,886 | 8,820 | 7,501 | 6,349 | 5,879 | 5,811 | 11,451 | – | 11,674 | 11,675 | |
Whitby CP/AP |
St Mary's church is an ancient foundation, St Ninian's opened in Baxtergate in 1778 and St John's, also on Baxtergate, was consecrated in 1850. St Michaels was opened in 1856 and St Hilda's on the West Cliff was built in 1885. The Roman Catholic church dedicated to St Hilda was built in 1867 on Baxtergate. There are places of worship for nonconformists including a United Reform Church; two Methodist chapels are no longer used. The Whitby Mission to Seafarers maintains a Christian ministry to seafarers and their families by the provision of a reading room, chapel and recreational facilities.
The Bishop of Whitby is a suffragan bishop of the Church of England Diocese of York, in the Province of York, England. The town lies within the Central Vicariate of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Middlesbrough.
Tourism is the mainstay of Whitby's economy. The town contains a variety of self catering accommodation, holiday cottages, caravans and campsites, and guest houses, inns, bed & breakfast establishments and hotels. The jet industry declined at the end of the nineteenth century but there are still eight shops in the town selling jet jewellery, mainly as souvenirs to tourists. In 1996, Whitby West Cliff qualified for the 'Tidy Britain Group Seaside Award'. The town was awarded "Best Seaside Resort 2006", by Which? Holiday magazine.
Whitby Harbour is used for commercial, fishing and pleasure craft. The harbour, at the mouth of the River Esk, has a total area of about . The one remaining shipbuilding firm at the port, is a family run business situated on the east side of the river called Parkol Marine. Formed in 1988, this boatyard has two berths for new build and a dry dock for repairs. Inshore fishing, particularly for crustaceans and line fish, takes place along the coast. Lobsters, brown crabs and velvet crabs are an important part of the local fishery. From May to August, salmon is found in the River Esk and small open boats are licensed to net these off the harbour entrance. There are around 40 licensed angling party boats. The commercial catch consists mainly of cod, plaice, whiting, haddock, lemon sole, dogfish and skate, generally caught within of the coast. There is a fish market on the quayside which operates as need arises. The ready supply of fresh fish has resulted in an abundance of "chippies" in the town, including the Magpie Cafe which Rick Stein has described as the best fish and chip shop in Britain.
The Whitby Marina project, jointly funded by Scarborough Borough Council, Yorkshire Forward and the European Regional Development Fund is an attempt to develop and diversify the local economy. The council has promoted St Hilda’s Business Centre which provides office space for a wide range of businesses. Whitby Business Park is a site located by the A171 road, from the harbour on the southern outskirts of the town. Major companies located on the park include Supreme Plastics, Whitby Seafoods and Botham's of Whitby. The site is home to major retailers Homebase and Sainsbury's.
The east coast has limited conventional energy generation capacity and related infrastructure, but Whitby has been identified as being ideally placed to provide support for the off shore wind industry on Dogger Bank, providing support vessel operations and logistics, as it is the closest port to the proposed developments. The Dogger Bank wind farm, which is expected to include up to 2,600 giant turbines, will cover more than .
The Port of Whitby is strategically placed for shipping to Europe, especially Scandinavia, and is capable of handling cargoes of grain, steel products, timber and potash. Vessels of up to 3,000 tonnes deadweight tonnage are received at the wharf, which has the capability of loading/unloading two ships simultaneously. of dock space is allocated for storage of all-weather cargo and a further of warehouse space is reserved for weather-critical goods storage.
The town is served by Whitby railway station which is the terminus of the Esk Valley Line from Middlesbrough operated by Northern Rail. It was formerly the northern terminus of the Whitby, Pickering and York line, and in 2007 the North Yorkshire Moors Railway began a summer service between Pickering and Whitby operated by steam locomotives. The Scarborough and Whitby Railway following a scenic route along the coast was built in 1885 requiring the red brick Larpool Viaduct to cross the Esk Valley into Whitby. The line closed as a result of the Beeching axe in 1965 and the trackbed is used as a footpath, bridleway and by cyclists. The Whitby, Redcar and Middlesbrough Union Railway, had a station at Whitby West Cliff and ran close to the cliffs, to the north of the town. It opened in 1883 and closed in 1958.
The coastal section of the Cleveland Way National Trail passes through Whitby.
Whitby fire station, run by North Yorkshire Fire and Rescue Service, is crewed between 8 am and 6 pm. There are two police stations in the town and police services are provided by the North Yorkshire Police Authority. The lifeboat station, on the east bank, which from 2007 is housed in a new building, is operated by the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. The crew members are unpaid volunteers and the station has two lifeboats, the inshore D-class lifeboat OEM Stone III and the all-weather Trent class George and Mary Webb.
North Yorkshire County Council Waste Management services provides a Household Waste Recycling Centre at Whitby Industrial estate and within the Scarborough Borough area, the Council operates an alternate weekly collection of household waste, whereby the type of waste collected alternates between recyclables and landfill waste. Whitby's water supply comes predominantly from the River Esk, is treated at the Ruswarp Water Treatment Works and distributed from there by Yorkshire Water who also deal with the town's sewerage. CE Electric UK is the company responsible for delivering electricity to the town and Northern Gas Networks supply piped gas.
The Whitby and District Fishing Industry Training School offers training for new entrants to the fishing industry and experienced fishermen.
The bridges allowed the town to spread onto the west bank, whilst the east bank, the Haggerlythe, is dominated by St Mary's Church and the ruins of Whitby Abbey which is owned by English Heritage. St Mary's Church, a grade I listed building on the site of a Saxon church, is situated on the East Cliff accessed by 199 steps or the Donkey Road. Its ancient foundation dates from the 12th century. Over time it has been extensively altered and enlarged but retains its several features including box pews. The East Cliff is quite a distance by road, the alternative is to climb the 199 steps of the "Church Stairs" or use the footpath called "Caedmon's Trod". The stone steps are around 200 years old and were completely renovated between 2005 and 2006. There are landings on the stairs designed to assist coffin bearers on their journey to the cliff top graveyard of St Mary's Church. The Church Stairs were originally made from wood, the earliest reference to their construction dates to around 1400.
The harbour is sheltered by the east and west piers on which there are lighthouses and beacons at the entrance, all with fixed lights, the east beacon shows red and the west shows green. The west lighthouse, built in 1835, is the taller at . The east lighthouse, built in 1855, is high. A foghorn situated on the end of the west pier extension sounds a blast every 30 seconds during fog.
In West Cliff there is a statue of Captain James Cook, who served his apprenticeship in the town, and a whalebone arch, commemorating the once large whaling industry. The whalebone arch is the second such arch, the original is preserved in Whitby Archives Heritage Centre. By the inner harbour there is a statue commemorating William Scoresby, designer of the crow's nest.
On the outskirts of town to the west is the 19th-century Sneaton Castle built by James Wilson who sold his sugar plantation where he had over 200 slaves and moved to Whitby. Alongside is St Hilda's Priory the mother house of the Order of the Holy Paraclete. The castle was used as a school and is now a conference centre and hotel in association with the priory.
In 1902 Robert Pannett bought land that would become Pannett Park. After his death in 1928, the trust he set up created the public park and an art gallery. Whitby Museum was built behind the gallery by the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society. The Friends of Pannett Park, formed in 2005, successfully bid for a Heritage Lottery Fund grant to refurbish the park. The museum holds a collection on the archaeological and social history of jet and has on display a "Hand of Glory". There has been a lifeboat in Whitby since 1802 and the old boathouse, built in 1895 and used until 1957, is a museum which displays the Robert and Ellen Robson lifeboat built in 1919.
Each year, on the eve of Ascension Day, the Penny Hedge ceremony is performed to commemorate a penance imposed by the Abbot on miscreant hunters in the middle ages. On Ascension Eve the men had to cut wood in Eskdaleside with a knife that cost a penny and carry the wood on their backs to Whitby. There, before 9 o’clock in the morning, the wood was to be made into a hedge in the harbour. This hedge had to survive three tides. This tradition is carried out every year in the upper harbour on the east side at 9 o’clock in the morning.
The Whitby Gazette was founded in 1854 by Ralph Horne, a local printer. The first issues of the Gazette were records of visitors and lodgings rather than a newspaper. The publication became a weekly newspaper in 1858 and is now published twice weekly. Local radio stations are BBC Tees and Yorkshire Coast Radio.
The Pavilion Theatre in West Cliff, an entertainment complex with traditional arch theatre built in the 1870s, hosts a range of events during the summer months. For over four decades the town has hosted the Whitby Folk Week and a bi-annual Whitby Gothic Weekend for members of the Goth subculture. "Whitby Now" is an annual live music event featuring local bands in the Pavilion which has taken place since 1991. Since 2008, the Bram Stoker Film Festival has taken place in October.
Wind surfing, sailing and surfing take place off the beaches between Whitby and Sandsend and the area is visited by divers. Whitby has various sports facilities including the town cricket and football grounds and tennis courts. The Cleveland Way Long Distance Footpath follows the coast between Saltburn and Filey running along the developed frontage of Whitby
The Whitby Regatta takes place annually over three days in August. The competition between three rowing clubs – Whitby Friendship ARC, Whitby Fishermen's ARC and Scarborough ARC – forms the backbone of the weekend. The event has expanded to include a fair on the pier, demonstrations, fireworks and military displays – including the spectacle of the Red Arrows aerobatics display team of the Royal Air Force.
Whitby Town F.C., formed in 1892, is an amateur football club which plays in the Northern Premier League at the 3,200 capacity Turnbull Ground on Upgang Lane. Golfing facilities range from "pitch and putt" to Whitby Golf Club whose 18-hole golf course is situated on the cliff tops to the north west of the town.
Charles Dickens is known to have visited Whitby and in a letter of 1861 to his friend Wilkie Collins, who was at the time in Whitby, Dickens says:
"In my time that curious railroad by the Whitby Moor was so much the more curious, that you were balanced against a counter-weight of water, and that you did it like Blondin. But in these remote days the one inn of Whitby was up a back-yard, and oyster-shell grottoes were the only view from the best private room."
Wilkie Collins stayed in Whitby to work on his novel, No Name. He was accompanied by Caroline Graves, the inspiration for The Woman in White. Mary Linskill was born in a small house at Blackburns Yard, Whitby, in 1840. She first reached a wide readership when her second novel, Between the Heather and the Northern Sea, was published in 1884. Her last novel For Pity's Sake, was published posthumously in 1891. James Russell Lowell, the American writer, often visited Whitby while ambassador in London 1880–85, staying at 3 Wellington Terrace, West Cliff. On his last visit, in 1889, he wrote:
'This is my ninth year at Whitby and the place loses none of its charm for me.'
The novel Possession: A Romance by A. S. Byatt set in the town was adapted into a 2002 feature film called Possession starring Gwyneth Paltrow.
Other literary works referencing Whitby include:
Caedmon's Song by Peter Robinson The Hundred and Ninety Nine Steps by Michel Faber The Resurrectionists by Kim Wilkins The Whitby Witches trilogy by Robin Jarvis Never the Bride, Something Borrowed, Conjugal Rites, Hell's Belles by Paul Magrs
Anchorage, Alaska, United States Porirua, New Zealand Stanley, Falkland Islands Whitby, Canada Nukualofa, Tonga Kauai County, Hawaii Osterode, Germany
Category:Towns in North Yorkshire Category:Civil parishes in North Yorkshire Category:Seaside resorts in England Category:Ports and harbours of Yorkshire Category:Visitor attractions in North Yorkshire Category:Fishing communities in England Category:Populated coastal places in North Yorkshire
ang:Hƿitby ca:Whitby da:Whitby de:Whitby et:Whitby es:Whitby eo:Whitby fr:Whitby (Angleterre) it:Whitby lt:Vitbis nl:Whitby (Engeland) no:Whitby nn:Whitby pl:Whitby (Anglia) ro:Whitby sv:Whitby vo:Whitby (North Yorkshire)This text is licensed under the Creative Commons CC-BY-SA License. This text was originally published on Wikipedia and was developed by the Wikipedia community.
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