Down by riverside

The Adelaide Convention Centre's head chef of Regattas, Paul Baker.

Source: The Advertiser

The embattled River Torrens has its moments, but even at its murkiest or emptied and revealing bizarre discards, the state of the water is a topic of conversation.

With precious few opportunities to dine at fresh water's edge in this state, we all turn it into an ice-breaking chat - with thanks to the catch from more pristine Australian shores.

So, riverbank restaurants such as Jolly's Boathouse, River Cafe/Red Ochre and Regattas continue to build on their position, posting tables with views over water, uninterrupted by the usual entertainment of water sports, although an occasional rower may pass by with mouth firmly shut.

Regattas is the restaurant arm of the Adelaide Convention Centre. Its riverside location may at times be less than world class, but the ACC venue is certainly up there when it comes to function catering.

Our largest sit-down dining facility is under the ever cheerful, expert guidance of creative executive chef Tze Khaw.

Recent giant dinners attended by food industry regiments numbering up to 1200 have proved there is room for innovation, even culinary artistry, on this grand scale.

At the recent Hall of Fame Premier Food Awards, 550 guests marvelled at the precision of a degustation dinner, never an easy feat, let alone for these numbers.

Down by the river, Regatta's is the a la carte dining cousin aiming for an intimate restaurant match.

Under the guidance of new head chef Paul Baker the restaurant seems to be bouncing back from some troubled years. It continues as a ``trainee-based'' kitchen with apprentices working in restaurant and function kitchens.

Imposing, tall glass windows, mod coloured glass walls and sleek banquettes bring it up to the minute. Those windows form a striking backdrop to the more casual tables out by the best river view. However, with just umbrellas for protection, they are only for the right conditions.

Baker trained with Matt Moran at Aria in Sydney, but his menu is styled after more recent experiences. He helped establish, to critical acclaim, the six-star Naladhu resort in the Maldives. And, after stints on super yachts around France and Monte Carlo, he's loving the waterside setting. Despite this, the restaurant has resisted waterfront paraphernalia, instead enjoying a decor quite sleek, understated even.

The tables are set well enough for it to feel a bit special, although little touches such as a salt dish very short on grains are a bit poor. The same goes for our start with a surly waiter who brought the wrong drinks. We didn't see him again. The other staff were gracious, if not attentive.

On arrival in Adelaide, chef Baker promised ``really simple, really fresh, uncomplicated dishes'' in seasonal and Mediterranean fashion.

In fact, his menu, in play since early October, and to stay until March, has a broader brush than that, but is a nice enough spread to make decisions deliciously difficult.

Baker has daringly ditched Regattas' popular, upmarket fish and chips in favour of a card not particularly nautical at all.

We liked the tribute to tapas fashion in the ``petite morsels'': our table easily sharing three plentiful selections of morcilla sausage with apple and red radish remoulade; grilled Kangaroo Island haloumi caprese; and fetta stuffed pepper dews. The latter were a surprise given their ubiquitous nature at continental counters, but here upgraded to plump and sweet baubles with a delicate capsicum zing and creamy inner with a tang of lemon thyme.

Our ``morsels'' did serve to jig the appetite so we tried entrees as well.

Tempura zucchini flowers were finely coated, although the stem could have been left batter-free for my liking.

They were filled with a smooth mix of tiger prawn and blue swimmer crab, a slightly sweet, creamy meld but with neither crustacean discernable in the flavour. Perhaps one or the other would have sufficed. The flowers came with a good salsa verde and subtle wild rocket.

A Gawler River rabbit terrine with date and riberry compote and endive salad across the table was rustic and substantial.

Paracombe sauvignon blanc was our pick from a well-designed wine list, all South Australian and reasonably priced.

It saw us through the main course, where a Berkshire pork belly, at once chewy, soft and luscious was the standout dish of the night. It was well cooked and constructed, with apple, pickled red cabbage and watercress a nice distortion of the traditional pork-and-apple duo.
A Spear Creek rack of lamb was again, beautifully cooked to rosy pink.

It was teamed with a light pastry cigar filled with richly flavoured neck meat, plus a confit of garlic, sweet bread and pea crumble. The latter sounds adventurous, but it was just a nice textural foil with the pea flavour most dominant.

Worthy side dishes are the broccolini with garlic chips and, while it might seem a bit old hat, a rocket, parmesan and pear salad gently doused with white balsamic was spot on.

We nearly demurred, but desserts arriving at other tables, not showy, were tempting us with lovely aromas.

A warm cinnamon and ginger poached pear tartin won sweet praise, and I recommend sharing the Regatta's chocolate plate of milk chocolate parfait, Callebaut cherry shake, dark chocolate and orange brulee with pistachio biscotti.

It rounded out a pleasant dining experience of no particular theme, but a hearty journey down by the riverside.

THE RESTAURANT
Regattas
Bistro
Adelaide Convention Centre

North Tce, Adelaide
Phone 8210 6785

www.adelaidecc.com.au

Dinner: 5.30pm to late
seven days
Lunch: Noon-3pm seven days
Breakfast: 8am-11.30am
Sat and Sun

Seating: 150 inside, 50 outside

Head chef: Paul Baker

THE VERDICT

THE BILL
Morsels: $8-$9.50
Entrees: $17-$19
Mains: $30-$34
Sides: $5-$7
Desserts:$13-$18
Corkage: $15/bottle

Summary
One of our few riverside options, enjoying water views by day and a focus on sleek lines within by night. The menu is a broad brush of well-loved dishes with contemporary treatment.

Score: 14.5/20

Score guide: Below 10: Awful. 11-12: Fair. 13-14: Good. 15-16: Special. 17-18: Outstanding. 19: Brilliant. 20: Perfect.