Tony Love's wine reviews

STEP UP IN QUALITY

$15 Yellow Tail 2008 Reserve Chardonnay

South-East Australia, various

www.casellawines.com.au

The story: The Yellow Tail is an extraordinary export success in the US, its standard range that sells here for around $10 at its core with fruit mostly from NSW's Riverina. The reserve steps into cooler Victorian and SA regions a real step up.

The flavour: A little gingery oak to begin, with reasonably well-crafted melon ripeness, comfortable weight and a decent zip in the palate. At this price a very good drop.

RATING: * * *

VALUE: Fair enough

VERDICT: A crowd pleaser

BREEZILY BRIGHT

$16 Willow Bridge 2010 Dragonfly Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

Geographe region, WA

www.willowbridge.com.au

The story: Signature stuff from WA's south-west, here 25km from the coast out of Bunbury, elevation and breeze cooling off the grapes while good winemaking offers textural elements often not seen at this price.

The flavour: This blend can wax and wane towards either variety's focal characteristics, and this heads to the herbal/grassy sauvignon side of the fence. Terrific minerality and presence working a treat.

RATING: * * * *

VALUE: Good

VERDICT: Order chicken caesar salad

PUNCHING POWER

$19 Hardy's Oomoo 2008 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre

McLaren Vale, SA

www.hardys.com.au

The story: This triple-treat style can be so many wines in one and here it's just about your all-Aussie blend, the grapes from a range of vineyards and districts around the Vales, carefully pieced together for an eminently drinkable red.

The flavour: Good fruit, a touch of oak and a bit of the old blood lip as well as garden herbs make up the aromatic spectrum with middleweight punching power and mouth appeal. One for a Mediterranean feast.

RATING: * * *

VALUE: Look for discounts

VERDICT: Easy slurping

RED CHALLENGER

$22 Paulett 2006 Cabernet Merlot

Clare Valley, SA

www.paulettwines.com.au

The story: A blend of 82 per cent cabernet and 18 per cent merlot, this represents another red side of the coin to the fabulous Paulett group of rieslings - the '05 aged release Polish Hill River riesling just won the best in the world title at the Canberra International riesling challenge.

The flavour: A tasty mix of violet aromas and good berry and plum flavours, softening now with friendly structures, background earthiness and oak. Appealing ease in its drinking.

RATING: * * * *

VALUE: Very good

VERDICT: Beef and black bean

TOWERING SUCCESS

$22 Tower Estate 2010 Semillon

Hunter Valley, NSW

www. towerestate wines.com.au

The story: A local hero wine out of the Tower Estate portfolio, which is based in the Hunter with former Wirra Wirra star Sam Connew now at the winemaking helm. Her first Hunter semi was a big pressure release that rocks.

The flavour: Lemongrass and lemon fruit subtle to begin but the undeniably powerful, crisp (really crisp) attack, with the promise of plenty of years in front of it.

RATING: * * * * *

VALUE: Really good

VERDICT: Buy several for now and later

CHOCK-FULL OF TASTE

$30 Trentham Estate Heathcote Shiraz

Heathcote , Victoria

www.trenthamestate. com.au

The story: Trentham has forged a name from its Murray River location (NSW side) east of Mildura, but this is an entirely different proposition from grower fruit.

The flavour: Smelling like a box of plum liqueur chocolates, followed by a very tasty mouthful of rich and sweetly fruited shiraz, remaining medium bodied with background oak and spice. Drinking really well right now.

RATING:* * * * VALUE: FairVERDICT: Pepper steak

FAMILY AFFAIR$49 Dolan 2008 Barossa Shiraz

Barossa Valley, SA

www.dolanfamily wines.com.au

The story: The Dolan family has an extraordinary multiple generation history in the Barossa, with Nigel the lauded former head winemaker at Saltram and now at Wyndham Estate. With son Tim, daughter Rebecca and wife Stephanie all getting involved, this is one of the most elegantly packaged wines going around.

The flavour: Simply glorious, virtually black fruits, mocha, spices all rolling around. Rich, smooth, all-encompassing.

RATING: * * * * *

VALUE: Worth every cent

VERDICT: Bloody beautiful

THE WINE LOVER'S SHOPPING LIST

Yellow Tail 2008 Reserve Chardonnay $15

Willow Bridge 2010 Dragonfly Sauvignon Blanc Semillon $16

Hardy's Oomoo 2008 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre $19

Paulett 2006 Cabernet Merlot $22

Tower Estate 2010 Semillon $22

Trenthan Estate Heathcote Shiraz $30

Dolan 2008 Barossa Shiraz $49

Ratings:

* No thanks

** If you must

*** Decent drop

**** A cut above

***** Top class