Translation of Nuraika’s post (RUS)

Our tour group had the good fortune to attend a tour of Dushanbe’s Ismailite center. The city is one of six in the world where members of this Shia sect have their own cultural center. The other five are located in London, Lisbon, Vancouver, Dubai and Toronto. Developed by Canadian firm Farouk Noormohamed Design Associates, the project took into account elements of local culture, architecture and traditions.

The cornerstone was laid down in 2003, but construction only began in September 2005. Tajik President Emomali Rahmon and the spiritual leader of the Ismailites Karim Aga Khan IV were in attendance at the opening ceremony on 12 October 2009.

“The center will be not only a place of worship; it will also deepen cooperation between Tajikistan and the Aga Khan Foundation,” said Rahmon.

According to Chakhma, Ismailism is one of the largest branches of Islam, with approximately 20 million followers worldwide. Large communities of Ismailites exist in India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Kenya, the Persian Gulf, Iran, Lebanon, Syria, as well as the United States, Canada, Great Britain France, and others. Tajikistan’s Ismailite community, one of the largest in the world, lives in the Gorno-Badahshanskaia autonomous oblast.

The center in Dushanbe is not yet fully operational. Our tour guide told us it would include a school for children and host various seminars. The one-story building is very beautiful, with high ceilings and carvings that, during certain parts of the day, allow the sun to shine through, projecting intricate patterns on the opposite walls.

“Modern Tajik Ismailites, who live in the mountainous regions in the eastern part of the country, are not the same ones you saw under Soviet rule, when they were afraid to even keep a portrait of their spiritual leader, Aga Khan, at home. Now that Soviet rule has collapsed, the Ismailites can breathe easy. They practice their religion freely and recently even had the opportunity to meet with their spiritual leader. The Aga Khan Foundation is very generous in helping the faithful in remote mountain villages of Tajikistan,” says IWPR’s Shirin Azizmamadova.

The Ismailite center combines traditional Central Asian architecture with a modernized European style. Designers traveled to Samarkand and Bukhara to study the mausoleums of Ismoil Somoni and Amir Temur for inspiration; hence, the use of brick in the facing, the use of carved wood in the interior and other elements characteristic of local architecture. (Source: Asia Plus)

A pool of water surrounds the building, which is decorated with yellow brick with blue inserts. Inside, the walls are coated with mosaics and ceramic tiles of blue, azure and green, a traditional color palette in some parts of Asia.

I was most impressed by the grandeur and special dignity of the prayer hall, which accommodates up to 1000 people. Before entering, we had to take off our shoes. Once we were in, we noticed the natural light created a kind of shade, which emphasized the solemn silence. Almost involuntarily, we lowered our voices to a whisper, so impressive was the richness and beauty of the architecture, as well as the spiritual atmosphere.

The conference hall has ceilings decorated with ornamental woodwork, and the floor is made of three different kinds of wood.

The total cost of the project was $20 million. 200 students will be able to attend the school, which plans to offer specialized courses in foreign languages, information technology, etc. All courses will be free, and, although they are designed for young people, age restrictions will not be enforced. There will also be a library. (Source Centrasia).

The Ismailite center makes for a fascinating tour. The scale of the project is very impressive, and I’d like to see it again once it’s fully operational.

A big thank you to Vadim Sadonshoev for the invitation!

Photos by Nuraika.