Playful menu on hotel row

They are vying to retain their well-heeled and sometimes budget-conscious guests, attract the spill of the adjacent cultural walk and even critical diners like me.

The Hyatt, Grosvenor, Playford and Stamford Plaza, even Oaks hotels are clearly aware that expectations are high.

Street traffic is accorded the same respect as plush suite dwellers from within.

At the Playford Restaurant, recent mod touches enable the dual challenge of complementing the mandatory richness of the hotel foyer decor with trendy visuals for passersby.

The mood borrows from the warmth of rich chocolatey colours, ornate fittings, and a street-level, two-tiered dining room with the choice of comfortable chairs or seating at the newer square-edged banquette.

The service is a formal match with friendly, well-informed staff in complementary Playford livery.
The main card is a broad jumble of mod and Mediterranean/Australian dishes, but begins by paying homage to the tapas fashion with a selection of little delicacies to share.

I can recommend the ultra light goat's cheese, pinenut and muscatel cigar of lovely, crunchy pastry, with the perfect foil of beetroot relish.

Also, the Clare Valley rabbit and thyme rillette is a smoothed timbale-style tower, not layered, just a mix of the minced meat and herbs all on a crispy square of toasted pita. The tart cumquat promised could have been more evident to add wanting zing to the subtle flavours, but it was good.

For value, it's best to choose three items for $17. Our third selection of hickory-smoked black mussels, lemon and herb gremolata is not the one I would suggest. The shrunken molluscs were overwhelmed by the topping which tended to cling stubbornly to the roof of the mouth. Other options might be the freshness of Atlantic salmon tartare or tomato, basil and white anchovy bruschetta.

The starters can easily replace entree but presentation at neighbouring tables make it tempting to indulge. Szechuan beef is a delightful sight, like a Christmas package, on a giant triangular plate with a zig zag of tamarind sauce and a springform of shaved cucumber casing for the crispy beef.

The 10 South Australian oysters were lovely and plump and topped with a fresh salsa, although too tomatoey to live up to the Thai description.

I never pass up zucchini flowers, but these were a disappointment. The flower was lost in a brittle polenta crust, its delicacy then further overridden by big flavour in the meaty mushroom duxelles stuffing. Consequently the tart and perfectly portioned little smear of Woodside goat's cheese and tarragon oil were wasted.

Good impressions were, however, restored with the mains, a steady rally of seafood to rump offering something for everyone. Among notables, a grill tasting plate comprising local cuts of beef, venison, rabbit, pancetta sausage and delicious little vegetable partners which is good for big appetites at $33.90.

Star of the mains has to be the crisp mandarin duck leg with pork belly.

It is a beautifully structured dish with wood ear mushrooms and red dates, and where lychees, of all things, find a perfect fit in a savoury application. On the side, go for the dreamy organic honey-glazed vegetables tossed with cumin and marjoram.

The Atlantic salmon wellington, it was explained, proves the hotel intention of soothing all levels of hunger.

The rich, buttery pastry was a bit much, but would help satisfy a big appetite. The seafood farce, easily rescued from within, is a slightly salty ball cooked just beyond rare. Beware, the big fishy flavour I enjoyed might be quite confronting to those who prefer subtle oceanic flavours. A citrus beurre blanc helped cut the pastry's richness, with caperberries for tart interest.

Skipping dessert seemed impossible.

The creations arriving around us looked like productions too good to miss.

So, we discovered the Quintessence, a relative newcomer which is, as it suggests, pure indulgence for chocoholics.

The gratifying clutch of five arty bits of decadence on a giant plate, $32 for two, covered souffle, ice cream, fudge, fondant, and a really good brulee.

A sweet feast which sometimes can be prepared for one (still enough to share), on request, at $18.90. A coconut macaroon ice cream special, if available, is a more refreshing finale.

The Playford wine list matches the broad strokes of the menu, a comprehensive mix of varietals from all Australian regions, reasonably priced and most available by the glass.

The service was fine, with wait staff knowledgeable and genuinely helpful. There were a few early dishes less enjoyed, but the cooking seems adventurous, and the menu is varied to suit a group where some like will safe with a steak while others brave it and step out of the square.

THE RESTAURANT
Playford Restaurant
Sebel Playford Hotel, 120 North Tce, city
Phone 8213 8844
www.mirvac.com.au

Breakfast: 6.30am-10.30am Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat-Sun
Dinner: 6pm-10pm seven nights
Seating: 60-70

Functions available

Wheelchair access and facilities

Executive chef: Tania Tauakume
Head chef: Andrew Eckermann

THE VERDICT
THE BILL

Entrees: $14.50-$23
Mains: $27.90-$33.90
Desserts:$14-$15; $32 platter for two
Corkage: $20, up to 3 bottles

Summary

A nice match of formal service and setting, a solid menu to suit most tastes with flourishes in the presentation enhancing the experience and some adventurous cooking for the foodies in the group, but some work needed on balancing flavours. Great location for pre-theatre dining.

Score: 14/20

Score guide: Below 10: Awful. 11-12: Fair. 13-14: Good. 15-16: Special. 17-18: Outstanding. 19: Brilliant. 20: Perfect.