One of the most surprising finds is in the most unexpected location.

Goodine's head chef Kam McManamy Source: The Advertiser

So when the word went out that a new restaurant cafe had opened in what might be considered a bit of a gastronomic no-man's land in suburban Kurralta Park on one of the state's busiest roads, the first visit came as some surprise.

Goodine Bistro is, in fact, a foyer cafe-meets-bar-meets-restaurant in the bright and shiny new Tennyson Medical Centre - which sits handily just west of Ashford Hospital, and, in fact, contains many specialists and direct departments connected to it.

But Goodine Bistro is quite a bit more impressive than the usual hospital canteen, with smart breakfast from muffins and sour-dough toast through to smoked salmon and scrambled eggs and chic coffee.

Lunch is pizza, panini and Turkish bread for business quickies and casual visitors.

Add to that a lounge and bar with European sensibilities, cocktails and top-shelf ales and spirits, as well as a lunch and dinner restaurant that puts together a pretty keen bunch of hospitality folk ready to attract those with healthy appetites and taste buds, and suddenly Kurralta Park might become a highly desirable rather than accidental dining destination.

Goodine is named after its owner, Richard Goodine, a Canadian businessman who has lived in Adelaide for close to two years.

He has brought into his fold people from the international liquor trade, a young chef who did his early learning with Melbourne cross-over Asian hero Teague Ezard and was previously at Citrus in Hutt St, and an even younger wine manager, Jennifer Evans, who has been seen on the floor of several top Adelaide dining rooms and now is crafting a pretty exciting personal statement about SA boutiques in her impressive first-time list here.

The dining room works its way from a long table perfect for spreading the newspaper in the morning and sharing bites and beers with mates later on, into a classy, moody room with locla, hand-made lacquered timber tables - some unclad, others linen covered.Goodine has a very Sydney design to it, but with Adelaide friendliness built in, making it a highly attractive proposition out of the central city district.

The menus by chef Kam McManamy carry the theme of ``a fresh perspective'' in its food approach, with smart produce set in mod-Italian mode or swish Asian settings, reflecting part of McManamy's recent Italian experience at Citrus and his personal bent for the evocative pleasures of the Orient.

Entrees are offered separately or in trio tasting-plate combinations including kumamoto oysters; pork su mai sing in a gingery, lime-tinged brothy sauce that has extra appeal from a few popping pearls of salmon roe; the dumplings are demonstratively flavoured, the dish fresh and exciting.

Ocean trout ceviche is another small plate that works well in a trio, the fish barely cured so it leans to the raw side rather than cold cooked, with deft chilli treatment and excitment in its sesame dressing that underpins the fish's natural sweetness.

The tasting option can match these with a wagyu beef carpaccio or another cracking Asian exploration of seared scallops with juicy, fall-apart pork neck. The tricky thing about putting a mix of small tastes on a plate is finding a wine that will work across them all, especially with vibrant spice flavours an inherent part of the flavour profiling.

Goodine's list is quite some work, given the place has been open just a few weeks. There are three gewurztraminers including one by the glass, for instance, to match the Asian aromatics, while the classifications also are encouraging: The whites in sections such as ``elegant and refined'' or ``big and rich'', the latter for chardonnays and viogniers.

Reds include Iberian, Italian and Rhone imports as well as South Australian versions from the same varieties, and the overall impression is to explore and be knocked out by what's on offer.

The food friendliness of the reds by the glass is worth noting; a Redhouse ``Mediterrane'' blend surprisingly lifted beside a handsome barramundi fillet with well-crisped skin providing a full-fat flavour to contrast with the saltwater-tanged flesh.

A subtle soy broth underneath, with crunchy green beans all add to a joyful, balanced and healthy dish.

From the European side, lamb loin in large pieces, seared pink in the middle sit on mounds of earthy Jerusalem artichoke, then a layer of pickled red cabbage, and a dollop of thick pistachio and herbs.

It is rich, tasty and well cooked and suits the wine recommended to match it.

One dessert - a kaffir lime panna cotta sits in a blood orange soup called here a ``gazpachio'', with a vanilla and basil sorbet - a sexy blend of flavours but a little icy in the middle. The panna cotta is bland and a little bouncy, though the soup is fresh and tasty without succumbing to acidity issues.

Another sweet, a ruby grapefruit steamed pudding with orange blossom ice cream and a lime-vanilla custardy anglaise is the best wintry dessert tasted this season, comforting, exciting, cleverly bitter and sweet. More please.

In fact, that might be the best reaction to post about Goodine. It's still putting some finishing design elements in place, but full of promise and delivering excellent dining pleasures already.

It might be the excuse you need to drop into this medical centre, even when you're feeling great.

THE RESTAURANT
GOODINE BISTRO
520 South Rd, Kurralta Park. Phone 8292 2295.

www.goodinebistro.com

Breakfast: 8am-11.30am, Mon-Fri.
Lunch: 11.30am-3pm, Mon-Fri.
Dinner: From 6pm, Mon-Sat.

Seating: 85, plus outside (soon to be completed).
Wheelchair access and facilities.

Owner: Richard Goodine.
Head chef: Kam McManamy.

THE VERDICT
THE BILL
Entrees: $15-$19. Mains: $24-$38.
Desserts: $12-$15. Corkage: $15 .

Summary
Chic designs combining cafe, bar, lounge and smart restaurant with excellent boutique-driven wine list, fresh and pleasing Asian-meets-Italian influences on the menu, good attention to diners and details all around the room. A top-flight suburban newcomer.

Score: 16/20

Score guide: 11-12, Fair; 13-14, Good; 15-16, Special; 17-18, Outstanding; 19, Brilliant; 20, Perfect.