Melting pot of the Med

IT'S AN osteria. A trattoria. No, it's a ristorante?

Whichever it is, what kind of dining will it be? The questions come into play at the new and already incredibly busy Osteria de Mesa on the main southeast artery out of the city, Glen Osmond Rd.

The O-word must have the right ring as it is pulling in unbelievable crowds just two months after opening.

In traditional terms, osteria refers to a place serving simpler food, perhaps even just basic pasta dishes. For the record, a trattoria is most likely an informal tavern or inn, akin to say a French bistro. And ristorante is heading into higher and finer dining territory.

But the language blurs at such places as Osteria de Mesa, which blends all these terms into one as well as complicating matters by being joined with a dark and Mediterranean moody Jamon Bar.

Sounds Spanish. Well, perhaps it wants to be. It taps into the tapas movement, hangs a few hams from the ceiling, serves a trio of sangrias and does a decent job of being an atmospheric wine bar for a full range of ages and fashions.

The gang behind Gouger St's Mesa Lunga - which has other offshoots Concubine and British India - Walter Ventura, Sarah Howell and Jess Charlton, has come together with former Amalfi chef Adam Zollo and former Cibo Rundle and Gouger manager Maria Krilcic. They have grabbed a former Thai restaurant setting and performed one of the city's most extraordinary culinary-meets-lifestyle makeovers.

Ventura has brought in some eye-catching design elements, created plenty of spaces with different tones from a Med-Mex courtyard to interior shedista twists such as raw bulbs over the specials board, huge dark timber shelves occupied by rows and rows of bottles, retro Italian sporting posters, family pics in little highlight spots, nooks and crannies everywhere and even a secret love-nest hideaway.

Lots of people love the place for its lively, attention-grabbing appearance - well-heeled eastern suburbs families, older couples and groups, post-business meetings and young friends. It's hot. Right now hot. Just like Sparrow was last year, this summer will be Osteria de Mensa's and Jamon Bar. They're already hiring extra chefs to cope.

The good news with what they have to work with menu-wise is that it's not about tricks and thrills. There are antipasto choices, dried and hand-made pasta, enough entrees to make for a slightly advanced take on sharing plates, and a bunch of second-course meats and seafoods that can only please the masses due to their all-round durability on family and community Italian tables.

Adam Zollo is the head chef behind the game plan and among his many ports of call before Osteria de Mesa has been a good stint at Frome St's wonderful Amalfi. And you can see the connection in the way the menu is set and delivered. For want of an easy and praiseworthy description, Osteria de Mesa is pretty well like Amalfi in the suburbs, though they are doing their own thing and are in no way connected.

Calamari fritti are small, crunchy sections and not industrial pap, and they go with a lovely citrussy aioli. A chicken liver pate is well flavoured, clean and light.

From the bar and tapas selection comes a plate of sliced meats including bresaola, chorizo, sopressa, South Australian prosciutto and Spanish jamon. They're sliced a little thickly perhaps, and the oil that accompanies the bread is a little flabby on the taste buds.

One of the tapas items - chips with a chunky tomato and paprika sauce - is fine to begin, but swamped by the sauce the potato chunks go soggy quickly and disappoint.

A confit duck, sliced potato, taleggio cheese and truffle oil with caramelised onion pizza is a meal in itself and a superb balance of crisp base and excellent, robust topping without going over the top.

Pasta comes in handmade fresh forms and dried. From the former selection a rabbit ragout braised in cider and port is a serve designed to feed the entire Azzuri (Italian) national football team - chunky, nicely rich, well textured in pasta and meat. All good.

And a saltimbocca, house styled with roast potatoes and green beans, is the essence of trattoria/osteria eating.

Dessert fans will order tiramisu thinking they'll be in for one of the usual commercial offerings around town, but no way; here it comes in a giant bowl and is scooped out at the table by one of a bunch of most affable young waitresses.

The cake is very creamy and downed dangerously fast.

Just like a pretty smart bunch of wines on the go here, too, the choices reflecting some of the parts the venue is trying to cover. Some Italian, or varietals now grown in Australia, some Spanish, lots of little boutiques doing interesting things - it all adds to the flavour of the place.

Flavour, fun and fashion - that's what Osteria de Mesa is all about - whatever the word was meant to be back in the home country.

THE RESTAURANT
(Osteria de Mesa)
205 Glen Osmond Rd, Frewville
Phone: 8379 5004

Lunch: Noon-2.30pm, Tues-Fri, and Sunday
Dinner: From 5.30pm, Tues-Sun

Seating: 180, inside and out
Wheelchair access and facilities

Owners: Walter Ventura, Sarah Howell, Jess Charlton, Adam Zollo, Maria Krilcic
Head Chef: Adam Zollo

THE VERDICT
THE BILL

Entrees: $8.90-$13.90
Pasta: $16.90-$24.90
Mains: $18.90-$28.90
Corkage: $12/ bottle

Summary
Busy, buzzing, crossover venue with a happy, popular Italian menu in one half and more, moody Mediterranean/tapas and wine bar in another. The food is heartily portioned, easy-going and family friendly. One of the hottest new venues around - and it's in the suburbs.

Score: 14/ 20

Score guide: Below 10: Awful. 11-12: Fair. 13-14: Good. 15-16: Special. 17-18: Outstanding. 19: Brilliant. 20: Perfect.