THE GOOLWA in-crowd long have haunted Aquacaf for luscious breakfasts but, once taken over by Jordan Theodoras and Ben McLeod, formerly of the Melting Pot at Hyde Park, Aquacaf has turned into truly fine dining by the water's edge.
Umbrella-shaded tables tier down decks and sprawl across the grass alongside the old Colorbond building. Dining is done with a Murray view, black swans, skimming pelicans, watercraft and Hindmarsh Island across the steely water. Everything is very coastal casual - except the food and the service. Here, Aquacaf leaps upmarket to gastronomic chic. Never was there a pasty like the Aquacaf fish pasty with its mulloway, cheese, leek and herb filling in light, flaky pastry. It is served on a wooden board, slipped halfway into a white paperbag with an accompaniment of piquant, herb-bright tartar sauce.
Specials change all the time, predominantly but not entirely seafood, each dish imaginative and served very professionally by well-informed wait staff. Chowder is a winter favourite and the salads sing to summer - watermelon, fried haloumi, mint and lychee, for instance.
The wine list favours good Fleurieu wines and water is automatically delivered to the table.
Desserts from Theodoras's partner, StephanieVasileff, are a whole new wonderland of sweet and light expertise and are not to be missed - the lemon meringue cakes being in a world of their own.
The river levels may have gone down, but the profile of Aquacaf continues to rise to the top like cream. Reservations recommended.
AQUACAF
Barrage Rd, Goolwa
Phone 8555 1235
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